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Are you using the mulitmeter correctly? Drawing shows meter selected in the 10 amp range (ok), test leads not position in the 10 amp jack. On the surface (picture) something not right in the procedure. (generally to measure current) If your are using your Camotek controller? off is OFF. NO...

I didn't mean like lost... let search the world lost. Knowing government paper work... it could be lost in plain site, LOL Lost like here it is in this guys driveway, CAMO

RFID inventory tag, in case HumV gets lost, CAMO

There is no "fan" belt. Gear drive. Just funnnnin, CAMO

Yes, the green stripe Gates products are a go to, USA standard that we grew up with.... and to add... if you can find them. The point being the work around of the hard lines to move water thru a distant of 22 inches. I was messing with you on the silicone boys. Guess you like the hard...

That's exactly what I did. Saw those hard lines and thought 🤔.... Those HumV engineer's are over - thinking the simple again. I used silicone hoses and the special clamps. Routed them to avoid any rubbing interference to engine moving parts / brackets. Like you stated, or I say "less monkey...

AND... Likely let in a gremlin, CAMO

As I look back, reviewing the notes, drawings and sleeping on it 😴 I was wondering if one didn't have the connector indexed wrong. I have seen customers do this before, and that's all I will say. It can happen and now a new teachable moment / learning experience for ALL. IMO... it would be...

These are GREAT posts to the goings on... or not on. Stay focused, logical approach (knowing one can get bit in the butt lol) process of elimination or substitution (your rewire bypass if done correctly) I am getting the feeling were not getting the whole story. These "boxes" if you...

Lead acid batteries have two states of charge. Charged and discharging. Not too good at storage. Ninth grade auto shop 101 teacher notes. Fifty five years ago, still true today, lol. In the storage shed...dead, CAMO

Not sure why they are called HUMVEE's Never heard a hum. Always something clinking, clanging and banging. Heard a buzz and that was the cut in the flywheel / starter shield touching. What's a VEE sound like? CAMO

OH BOY... A quick free guess . By chance do you have the SRS "STOP-RUN-START' switch wired wrong. You are using this switch ? Here's a picture to help. Note switch ribs on molded parts and maybe label B 4 BATTERY.....R 4 RUN..... S 4 START. 11 A lead should have ribs on it too. Mc Ribs...

Jumping right in... again :jumpin: A little deeper dive into this. I see your 4 post and last reference to a like problem was 2019. Not all problems generally are the same to be "shotgun" fixes... but the info surrounding them could be a clue. Research is golden. 🎓 Breaking it down...

That's true on the CUCV's too. Solenoid control. Guess pink the new #54. You getting this Ken., CAMO

Pink wire is the color Ford uses on fuel pumps...most of the time. Or it could be Barbie's rig, CAMO

It's a little hard to trouble shoot over the internet not knowing one's skill set and tests made. This is a very simple one wire circuit to engage solenoid. All I can offer up... AND I think you're up to it... is double check the single wire lead 74A and follow it from starter solenoid back to...

Alternatively might be a PCB issue. Depending on the model, manufacture... there is a slave relay driving the starter solenoid lead 74. Might be welded close? Might be time to get a new box, CAMO

YES it does. Have reports of - 28 F without heater. Allow it to warm up for a bit before racing off. Strong batteries and the best box, CAMO

I have TOO. Eight years the original and still going strong, CAMO

My guess... the switch, bracket and location is not a factory option, as in not seen before on trucks. Yes the switch is something one might dig up in a motor pool, found in the junk box with bracket or bits and prices put together. IF someone went to the trouble to tag the wires and followed...