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Are you referring to the switch on the top of the transfer case that grounds the wire for the 4WD light when the transfer case is in 4wd? I changed mine out from under the truck.

The gear on the nose of the starter motor is often called “The Bendix” since I guess they made them at some point in time. They are relatively easy to change. There is a wire retaining clip that will drive you nuts removing and installing if you don’t have the special tool to do the job. have...

I do the entire procedure from underneath. I find it easier to unbolt the support bracket from the block with a 13 mm swivel joint socket. Then pull the two main starter to block bolts and set the starter on the font axle. Actually, balance the starter on the axle is a better description. Remove...

Here is a video I made about the starters, the support bracket and the bolts:

Get the support bracket and the proper new knurled starter bolts.

Power steering pump first. You can carefully use a pry bar or there is a special little adaptor that lets you grab the pump with a ratchet. then either alternator and then the other alternator.

Are you sure it is a tank and not a valve or fitting? If you find it is an actual leak a simple weld could seal it up in place. The system never sees more than 120 psi so it will hold ok.

Hawk brand brake pads on the front make a huge difference. 2000 or newer Chevy truck rear axle with disc rear brakes that have the top had drum parking brakes. Fabrication required.

Pictures would help. There is a bolt that goes into the side of the block between the power steering pump and the motor mount. They have a tendency to work loose and fall off. Without pictures that is my only suggestion.

With the Michelin XZL tires at their 80 psi max I flat towed once 180 miles round trip to the air show in Temple behind the M35 one year. No tire wear that I could determine. I just could only see the shadow of the M715 sometimes during the drive and didn’t like that so I either drove it or...

I would also suggest leaving your stock glow plug sensor there if it isn’t leaking. You or a future buyer might want to return things to stock glow plugs.

Mine is over 7,000 pounds at the local scrap yard. I think I the problem flat towing is the Castor of the front axle. The tires just don’t want to follow in a straight line. Not as bad as the front tires locking over when towing a M35 as we have both experienced. But enough to shove the front...

I forgot I have a video showing what I did:

That looks better than what I did. M35 rear shackle mounts drilled out to 1 inch bolted to the top.

Any of the normal 4 or 5 ports on the cylinder heads or cross over coolant pipe will get you coolant temperature readings. Arguments can be made about which location is best or worse. My opinion is that installing a quality gauge will let you see actual numbers. Once you have those numbers...

Here is a video about running an IP dry and getting it full of fuel again I made:

DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!!!!!! Bad thing can happen. Are you getting any kind of smoke out the exhaust while cranking? No smoke of any color normally means no fuel at the injectors. Crack the lines at the injectors and check for pulsing fuel spray while cranking. Keep cranking in 30...

With the glow plugs on, that is about what my volt meter shows. Is it starting ok?

Check the pulley on the driver side alternator. They are stamped steel and can bend out over time. The sides of the belt only should be touching the pulley. If the bottom is touching then the belt can’t work correctly. I am not entering the resistor/bypass arguments. Just stating I have 3...

Was your glow plug light on as well? The resistor should have current flow unless the glow plugs are on. They shouldn’t be on more than 20-25 seconds with a cold engine and 20° F outside temps.