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Good luck! If you do end up removing the heads, definitely have them inspected by a machine shop. It's worth it. There will probably be cracks in the pre-combusion cup bottoms, but don't worry! There are some standard measurements you can use to determine if it's OK or if they need to be...

The other thing to look at, some of the wiring for that comes from under the dash and across the top of the steering wheel shaft. Inspect there (no need to disassembly anything) and look for chaffed or broken wiring. (On my M998 that caused my switch to fry killing everything... but the most...

If you can turn the glow plug, and just can't fit the tool you have in there.. Then you need a different extractor. Look up "OTC 6005A Glow Plug Remover Tool Set". This is what I used on a counterfit set of glow plugs to get them out. You need to be careful not to break the half-moons that...

The bracing on the back. Move the grease plate tight to the bumper and bolt the bracing to it. There should be enough of a slot to make that adjustment.

Check the inside for spacers, I know my (not-airlift bumper) has spaces inside that I'll need to remove to put in a square hitch (someday).

Washer for engine oil changes? (vs transmission/transfer case?)

Definitely bypass it. It can leak from the reverse flow. Everything should be reachable from around the air intake area under the hood, just to the right of that is the valve and hoses (if I remember correctly.)

(reminder this is an older thread from 2021, but...) at the time I used an inspection mirror to look and I found no metal bits that i could see... but advice was if you were concerned to pull the injectors, which I wasn't willing to do at the time. Also the glow plugs showed no signs of recent...

Figured I'd follow up on this. After needing to pull my heads, at least two of the pistons showed very minor damage from metal going through the engine.. (no ring or wall damage) So reminder, check your glow plugs and swap them BEFORE they start to fragment! And remember to avoid the Chinese...

Must be an issue on Mobile or something. I'm seeing Xitter inline when I view this page, but I'm on a computer.

Found another Franken-HMMWV.. 9-tube 122mm Grad MRL bolted to the back of an armored flatbed ECV HMMWV.

Thought some might find this interesting. Mounting a Stuhna anti-tank missile system to the turret hole of an ECV. (and of course the inside of the windows are all fogged over... yup, it's a HMMWV)

Also be aware it might be hardened steel. If it is, then no die will cut it.

This is the original style, the cable goes out the side of the firewall by the fuel filter. But I will double check this tomorrow. Just frustrated why it worked once, and now a dozen more tries same failure mode.

I’m giving up for today. It was working great ONE time now it’s jumping again. I’ll try tomorrow and pull the transfer case side and spin it by hand with someone in the cab to watch it. with the cable lose and driving about 10MPH the cable visibly turns smoothly, and if I use my fingers and...

Argh I forgot to connect a wire and had to disconnect and reconnect it and now it’s doing it again…. Wish I know what magic will fix this again.

I pulled it off the speedo, pulled the cable out about 3 inches moved it in/out a bit, and rotated it. (It is VERY greasy so lube wasn’t the issue.). Put it back together and speedo is smooth as it was before. So must have been an internal kink. GPS compared to the new speedo, 1MPH...

Brand new cable.. when it was off the truck it turned freely.

Got the speedometer and cable replaced.. Was a messy job, but not overly difficult. Start at the dash and work back to the transfer case, reverse the order for install. One thing, my new speedometer/cable is causing the needle to bounce a LOT. Is there some sort of lube I should drop into...

Got it done and it works! Finally legal to drive it….