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When I had the radiator stack out I replaced mine with a quick connect. It could be done without, but it takes someone with small hands and/or a contortionist.

Picture shows an M998 hood, the gap in the middle is normal as that is where the hood centers.

Painted and wired…. The wire is an eBay weather tight 2-pin connection. This way I can easily add and remove the plate as needed. I’ll finish wiring the trailer side tomorrow.

I just unplugged it and used a large adjustable wrench from inside the cab (if I remember right). Ohh and remember it goes into a water jacket, so you MUST drain some coolant!

I asked a friend who welds to make me a license plate holder that attaches to the rear of the trailer on the leveling leg connection point. Looks like it turned out great! I need to paint it, install the plate (and light)

Looks a lot like this is running a userspace driver, that is feeding input back into the kernel through a virtual input device. So it's the tsharcd that you need, as there may not be an actual Linux kernel driver. I found this, it might be helpful...

Edit: Yes it's the mechanical 60 MPH... If a new one had been $300+, I'd quickly have gone the used route, but Mac has a new one under $100.. For that price, seems like new is better.. then I can stick the old one away as "proof" if anyone questions the mileage. (Not that my title doesn't...

I may try the welding idea. I've definitely tapped in on my hand, then a table.. doesn't move. I'll keep trying. (Looking up the parts, including a new speedo, it's only $130 + shipping.. so I may go that route and skip the headaches if I don't make any further progress today.) Side note, I...

Speedo turns by hand and the needle moves. I’m just turning the brass collar that pin goes into.

I have no idea on the military antilock brakes. On the civilian vehicles I've worked on it's one of the following: 1) you bleed them the same way as normal 2) you need a fancy computer to tell the anti-lock brake system to go into bleed mode, THEN bleed as normal 3) (the neat one) you have a...

In the above you can see the end of the speedometer cable broke off in the speedometer. Does anyone have a clue how I can get it out of there? thanks!

Unless you truck has anti-lock brakes (which most do not), it SHOULD be standard two-person bleed. Start with rear pass (right)... Someone in the cab pressing the bake, someone in the back opening the bleeder, letting the air/fluid out, close it.. repeat until the far right has no more...

For comparison, mine kicks in right around 220, then off at about 205. 6.5L - V belt unit..

I talked to a friend who worked in the maintenance facility for his unit. He said they would use the vehicle hoist, put the rubber part under the drive-on hoist and push down with it.. it would release the bead and pop the metal halves apart (most of the time). If that didn't work they used...

I'll echo the alignment. Got mine and it was "ok", but always felt squirrelly on gravel roads. Got the alignment done (primarily toe), and she's rock solid now on pavement and gravel.

I have the insulated arctic doors for mine in the winter. It stays plenty warm enough (2-man) with them and the insulated top/curtain. HOWEVER, be aware the arctic doors have REALLLLLLLY small windows (and the windows don't open), so they suck in the summer. I also have regular canvas summer...

I just used a little 'green slime' and set the o-ring in the slot with it. Seemed to keep them in place and lubricate them as the rim halves went together.

After dealing with a bad oil pressure sensor, I just replace the gauge and sensor as a unit now (unless I know for sure it's the gauge). The minimal cost saves on the headaches and labor. (On my bad pressure sensor, I throught it was a bad gauge, replaced the gauge, replacement worked for one...

I've seen cases on the HMMWV where the lug nuts don't turn easily simply due to excess paint on the threads. Stiff wire brush and it should go smoothly. If it doesn't, then either the stud, nut or both should be replaced.

Do you have an engine hoist? You can use a hoist to separate the rim, and then pull the rim off the bead. Go about 18:30 into the video to see how to do this. It's how I did all of my rims. (Note when I did it to my own tires, I used a strap to center the pull in the rim.. worked great for...