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The filters with an anti-drainback valve are recommended. Not only for the sideways mounting, but I believe also to help keep the large volume of oil in the high mounted oil cooler. Reduces the delay in getting pressurized oil to the bearings on startup by not having to fill up these empty...

Agreed. A couple 1/4-20 holes aren't gonna hurt that bumper. Thats how i install all my plate brackets.

I read somewhere that the early four mans had only the drivers side insulation pad because the exhaust was on that side and would blister your leg otherwise. The passenger rear insulation pads seem to have shown up on the models that incorporated the built in A/C systems. M1165s come to mind...

Thats awesome! Thanks for posting up the solution. Your follow ups with testing made it easy to help. I predict others will find your post helpful. I know I did.

Never hurts to throw in a new filter element. Yes, the water separator is that center filter "tube" that coalesces the water into the bottom of the housing where the drain hose attaches. The only other filter is a sock type on the end of the pickup tube inside the tank. Ive been looking for...

Ive noticed about 2" difference between the 998s(8k) and the 1123(10k), and another 1 1/2" in the 1165s Beefed up capacities for armor im guessing and without the added armor, they spring upward.

For me, Ive been collecting and reading Factory Service Manuals, Owners Manuals, and military manuals for 40+ years. As much information is in there to absorb, I only gain a true understanding when I have the vehicle sitting there in front of me. I need the context of the vehicle to reference...

I'm not sure if you can swap or not. Ive never needed to do it yet. I Looked up the TCM in the -387-24P manual and it shows a different PROM chip for each different year.

Voltages at the batteries and generator within spec? Same light results when the wires are switched to the T/C lamp? If so, it sounds like there may be stray voltage backfeeding through that wire. Anybody else got any ideas on this one?

Hmmm....check the voltage of each battery individually, then check for the voltage of the pair, then check voltage at the batteries while running(generator output). Lastly, check voltage at the 12v stud on the front of the generator. This is probably the stuff to check first in any electrical...

Looking at the schematic from the TM 9-2320-387-24-2 for the M1114 sheet 2... The light should get 12v power from the transmission relay directly to wire 657B. Wire 657A then goes directly to the TCM housing cannon plug terminal U then thru to the TCM module pin B9 (check trans lamp). Im...

My understanding is The red button is more like a reboot button than a circuit breaker. The dim light may be a clue. I would check/clean the connectors to the light that are located under the floor in front of the shifter bag. Another possibility Ive read about is stray voltage from a failing...

A basic shifting diagnosis will be hard to pull off if you cant get up to 45MPH at least to catch OD and converter lock up bumps. Does the trans shift into all four gears while in OD position? When manually shifted from 1 to 2, 2 to D, and D to OD, does it shift as commanded? Can you feel the...

I seem to remember Breton four man kits with c pillar and four doors going for $2500. shipped I predict $4995. price point ...doors not included. All in cost will be just under doing hard top and hard doors There are already rear seatbelt kits out there so I wouldn't expect that from the new...

That valve is a ford looking fuel filter acting as an air filter. the one end connect to a line that runs down the frame rail to the fuel tank. Its the vent line for the fuel tank. If you have the shallow water fording flush intake, that filter would be the end of the vent line. If you have...

Just an FYI...All automatic transmission vehicles have a "neutral start" switch. The difference between the three and four speed shifters is that there is a second "pad" that closes the neutral start switch in the Park position just like it does in the neutral position.

I would start with all new cables and renew all connections between the starter and batteries. It may not be the actual problem causing no start, but its the most important roots of the electrical system and one of the first things I do to a new-to-me vehicle. Good batteries and cables.

Depends on how bad the original paint is or if its really rusty. If its thick flaking CARC and rust then yes. Avoid the threads obviously. If its mostly good paint with surface rust on sharp corners then just D/A sand and clean first

I work in powder coating...Paint it. For a somewhat satin finish, Use some VHT engine paint. If you bake the parts in an oven per the directions, it gives the paint some powder coat like qualities like impact and chemical resistance. For a lusterless CARC black, The Rustoleum Camouflage 2X...

I would like to have one of these.