Search results

Regarding the actual wire numbers, you can look at the schematic on the side door and find your oil pressure gage, the schematic will show you what wire goes where. Note: you will have 2 wires on the ground stud and probably 2 on the "I" terminal as well because the gages are all daisy chained...

Your wiring description is correct. Nothing goes on the O terminal except the mounting strap nuts. Make sure your mounting strap has plastic inserts in the holes to prevent shorting the O and Ground studs together. As LITD stated, the gage operation sounds correct except for 1 thing. When you...

The biggest advantage of that foil covered butyl mat is that it not only blocks sound but also takes away the panels ability to transmit vibration and noise an kills the "tin can" of a big flat piece of aluminum. On an 802 ( not as much on an 803 ) you can see the top covers vibrating when its...

Precisely why you should always start by checking the SIMPLE, FREE stuff first, if all that fails, then dig deeper.... inspect, test and lastly replace!

Hi guys, as many have probably noticed there seems to be an increasing number of threads with people dealing with stuck metering pumps and stuck fuel racks on their 802's and 803's This seems to be a more frequent problem, now that virtually all available fuel sources have been low sulfur only...

Make sure the switch Kloppk indicates is in the 2:00 position on 1 L3-L1 L3 If this is correct, I would clean and exercise both that AM/VM switch as well as the main AC selector switch in the AC reconnect box.

"Custom" sounds pricy! What are you looking at for 1 custom sensor? There's gotta be a better solution out there. Have you exhausted all associated PN's? I assume yes. By this I mean that when searching by NSN number you can often find other OEM PN's associated with that NSN number. Those PN's...

I don't know if I'd worry all that much about the batteries. You're only going to run the heater for a short period before starting it , and all it needs is like 5A to run. The military used them like this, no reason it won't work for you as well. Sounds like you will get AGM's probably group...

The linkage will appear normal on the outside even if it's frozen ( due to a sticky metering pump ) on the inside. The rack is not directly connected to the rack, the only connection in the opening position is a spring, so if a pump is sticking the linkage outside the engine pulls on the spring...

Some of these 803's came with an arctic ( diesel powered ) coolant heater installed. I've removed and sold 2 of them being that they are not needed here in New England. Perhaps you could keep your eyes out for one to become available? That could be run for a while after an outage occurs, prior...

Just for the hell of it, unplug the fault indicator panel and see how the machine performs.

Pretty sure I bought parts to fix a couple and ended up finding replacements, perhaps I should revisit fixing them for shelf stock!

Where is that mess connected, to the float control module mounted down beside the fuel tank? If so, it looks like maybe someone else already attempted to bypass it. If they did it correctly and it is still causing problems, your float module may be the problem.... seen that twice before.

Don't get hung up on the 100A main breaker rating Vs the 50A breaker feeding your equipment. Go to the top of the Generator forum and read the 002 003 Main Breaker sticky that Sewerzeuk posted long ago. It explains the difference between the breakers in these machines and your typical thermal...

When backfeeding into the 50A breaker in the house, are you able to load up the generator and get it up to 100% without tripping the breaker? This is assuming the house has 240V loads big enough.... What gage and length is the wire you have running from the generator out to the garage? Do you...

Ah, well that's not quite how I interpreted your original post. If it's fine with no load and the breaker turned on, then frayed wires isn't the problem. A proper operating 003 will just barely start most 5hp motors without popping the breaker, depending on how much load it present at start up...

Agree with everything above. Sounds like a frayed wire shorting to the chassis, and yes the frame could very well become energized and be dangerous to touch. Since this only happens with the breaker closed I would open the side of the AC reconnect box and check for mouse damage. Then look at...

Looking at Kurt's description of S5, I'm confused as far as you saying S5 is not getting 24V. Sounds like the contactor gets +24 to the X connection through K20 and gets its ground from S5, so that makes me assume you should not expect to have 24V power at S5, but rather continuity to chassis...

Does the contactor close while holding the switch up? I assume no? Have you tested either the old or new contactor per the TM by applying ground and 24v to the small terminals? If so what was the result? If not... test that first to confirm the contactor is functional. Are you also only getting...

No worries at all, reading some of these schematics can be intimidating at the very least. I can barely scratch the surface compared to some of the electrical guys here! Good luck, hopefully you get it fixed up, if not we're all here to try to help.