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It could depend on where you bought it. Some of the auctions attempt to start them, some don't, some use a slave cable, some don't. I got one once with the throttle cable jacket melted somehow and my best guess was that somehow someone tried to jump it and had a mishap with the cables???

Or possibly hooked up jumper cables in reverse polarity with + on the chassis and - on the + battery post?? Look like some kind of dead short/reverse polarity situation happened at some point.

He's on it... He's got the Deoxit on order so he can clean the switches, he's also working on learning about the droop adjustment and lastly he's going to address the potential wet stacking. Now we sit back and wait for the results to come in.... :grd:

The MOV is not seeing anywhere near 120V, if that's what you're thinking.....?

I'd suggest using something other than your inverters to load test it. Use an old electric oven, some heat guns etc. something you can use to step up the load sequentially. I'd first clean the switches, then perform the wet stack cleaning procedure by loading it up to say 1Kw for 1/2 hour, then...

Just make up a daisy chain jumper with spade connectors crimped on the ends and jump 2,4,6 and 8 together, then reinstall as normal. 3 wires, 4 spade connectors. Build them into a jumper chain....

Sounds like you guys got it covered..... I was late to the party! :ROFLMAO:

Take a multi-meter and check to see if terminals 2,4,6 and 8 are all connected together internally.

Follow the red and green lines.

Also, you're measuring S1-7 right at the switch and nothing there when attempting to crank? At first glance of the schematic, I think that would have to be a problem with the S1 switch itself, if you have power on S1-6 but nothing on S1-7 while cranking.

Is this a new to you machine ( from auction etc ) or something you've had running and not it won't start? Can you post a picture of the inside of the control panel, showing all the "Relays" mounted in a row?

The "right" side of CR1 goes to the FU1 fuse and eventually to the alternator. Power comes from the alternator, through FU1, into CR1 (right side ) then out CR1 left side and eventually to the dead crank switch.

For the overload issue, get a can of Deoxit contact cleaner and spray and vigorously exercise both the AC select switch ( need to remove front top cover to clean the switch internals ) and also the AM/VM selector switch on the front panel. Get the cleaner inside the switch through the holes and...

Yes, very similar. Does yours have a fuel tank in the upper platform? I think mine may be slightly longer, I think it is the same size as the trailer itself. Yours looks to be slightly shorter than the trailer and maybe a little tight to put 2 gens side by side.

In the picture above you would spin that gen around and slide it backwards more, remove the front tool box and put the other 802 sideways all the way forward.

Hi Digger, I've done that with 2 802's on that trailer before, but not side by side. I mounted the forward one sideways and the 2nd gets mounted front to back all the way rearward with the control panel obviously to the rear. It fits, but access to the left side door in the front gen and the...

The procedure to test the Main load contactor CB2 is on page 3-71 of the -12 operator and organizational maintenance manual. If you find that it does not close when applying 24V to pins A and B of the contactor's connector, try whacking it with a rubber or dead blow hammer while applying 24V...

The TM has a page that lists all the reference indicators and what they are. It's important to become familiar with these references. because everything in the TM and schematics use the "S2" and "CB1" etc. references. Do as Guy asked, if CB2 does not close and DS6 does not illuminate, the TM...

Look on ebay under Stanadyne 24371 injection pump kit. Price ranges from $25 to $40 The 2 black rubber umbrella seals in that kit are the parts you need for your shaft leak repair.