1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

[Kaiser67M715]

April is winding down, last week, so I pulled the girl out of hibernation, going through everything. Couple things I noticed, I'm a little low on brake fluid, but have yet to discover any leaks on the lines or at the wheel cylinders(still have 2 to look at) last place to check is my air pack, that is the only other place I can see losing fluid.(unless it was air between the reservoir and master, the pedal is still firm and the shoes I checked were dry of any liquid.

Second, my valve cover is still leaking a good bit, the seal, but I may have to live with that, I have not found a suitable alternative to the gasket.

Third, parking brake lost a horseshoe clip for mustache spring, and broke the return spring.

Fourth, need to do the rear axle pinion seals; this I knew about before, but have been lazy with.

I am pretty sure there was something else, but I can't remember right now.

Here are a couple pics, my 1985 GMC is taking up the garage space, so I made do outside, doing 1 wheel at a time, making sure tires were chocked, and everything sat firm

Ha, took a pic of the last issue, one of my boots is all cracked, I am pretty sure this was the side that was rubber one piece, I'll have to go back through my thread and verify, but I do remember getting one silicone and one rubber boot. What I will do is get a zipper boot for now till I get the 85 GMC on the road, which will hopefully be in another month or so


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[RodUSMC1962]

George at White Owl should have valve cover gaskets. on my truck someone over tightened the cover and bent it that's why it was leaking, easy fix.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I have two more gaskets, well maybe one definitely, for the valve cover, but now that you say it could be bent, that could be a more likely scenario, I noticed Memphis has some NOS ones for 60 bucks, may get one as a spare. I had noticed some rust last time I had it off, so even if I get an extra and don't use, at least I will have it for when I do need it.

So knocking a few other things off the list as I wait for seals, and the knuckle boot. I got some rubber mounts for the headlamp panels, so working at pulling the old ones off. 4 came off with a combination of vice-grips and a wrench, one I cut off, and the last for the drivers side waits for tomorrow-its in the corner and rather difficult to position myself to get at it good. I also took an hour and made a folding step, just another thing I had wanted to do, but had never gotten to. It is a little flimsy, but holds my weight enough to get up on the bumper easier.


I am wondering as to why there are two sets of holes for the head light panel, is one set for winch trucks, when the lights get mounted high? or some other reason. it is like that on both sides.

I also plan on either getting or making an expanded metal screen for the grille, give a little more protection for the radiator(had a car window break today on the highway when a truck kicked up a rock), I will get a reverse light or two hooked up as well in the next few days.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, often the headlights were in the low spot for non-winch trucks and the high position for winch trucks. Many had 24v electric horns too(opposite the headlight install).

 

[RodUSMC1962]

I would try White Owl for the gasket ,Memphis can be a little high in my opinion.I would at least call.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I just realized I never updated on the brake fluid being low, but found no leaking axle seals or any leaking lines, and no wheel cylinders were leaking. my airpac has the plug in the rear, so I removed that, but saw nothing. the fluid was low before parking for winter, it had dropped a couple days after bleeding and getting it on the road back in August, so it is possible I forgot how low it was and mistook it for being a problem.

Last time I talked to George at White Owl, he only had valve cover gaskets in the overhaul kits for $55, I think Memphis was $12 just the valve cover gasket. This was in January if my memory serves me right.

my pinion seals and knuckle boot arrived today, although I may not get to them tomorrow, I planned on working on the '85 GMC. I did do some touching up of spots that were flaking paint, and painted the front as much as I could, got the vibration isolator rubber mounts on, and painted some door stars, not perfect, but looks ok from 20ft. Pretty much just making it look a little better till I go and repaint it Strata blue.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

It's been wet, so I haven't done all that much, but I knocked a few small things out today.

Started by making a way to keep my step up, I was going to try and make a latch, but saw these cabinet magnets, so figured I would give it a go, seem decently strong, and if I need to I can get another for the other side.



I also got a handle so it is easier to close the hood, right now I let it drop, but figured it would be better to not do that. I do need to get some shorter screws, it isn't tight to the hood yet.



and made an air cap extension, looks better in my opinion.



and cleaned out the doors, passengers side wasn't bad, but the drivers side had lost alot of the door coating(some sort of rubber deadening material) and the drains were getting clogged up.

 

[rustystud]

It's been wet, so I haven't done all that much, but I knocked a few small things out today.

Started by making a way to keep my step up, I was going to try and make a latch, but saw these cabinet magnets, so figured I would give it a go, seem decently strong, and if I need to I can get another for the other side.

View attachment 621713

I also got a handle so it is easier to close the hood, right now I let it drop, but figured it would be better to not do that. I do need to get some shorter screws, it isn't tight to the hood yet.

View attachment 621714

and made an air cap extension, looks better in my opinion.

View attachment 621715

and cleaned out the doors, passengers side wasn't bad, but the drivers side had lost alot of the door coating(some sort of rubber deadening material) and the drains were getting clogged up.

View attachment 621716

That's a clever idea for holding up the step !

 

[Kaiser67M715]

That's a clever idea for holding up the step !

Thanks! Having used it a few times now, I really like it, no trying to remember a pin or anything, and it seems to stay put really well, our road is pretty bad with frost heaves, and it has stayed up. plus it really saves my back when trying to climb up to do engine work

My dad picked me up a pioneer rack when he went down to Aberdeen, no brackets, so I spent a few hours making my own, using one measurement I found on this site(I Believe it was Gringeltaube who posted that dimension-so thanks), that the front bolt spacing from the bed to the rack is 12-1/2" center to center, so figure another inch, the front angle iron was about 13-1/2" long total. and since the rear bolt holes were already there, it was rather simple to bend up a piece of straight bar stock to make the rear bracket, although the rear angle would be tricky without an angle finder(I actually eyeballed, and it turned out spot on, although I do have the angle finder)



I did throw a little leftover paint on there, but I will need to remove to get the brackets painted good, and I also need to find the stash of straps, picked up a large amount for cheap at the Weare rally a couple years ago, still using them and pretty sure there are a few that will work. I also still need to get a handle for the mattock, and cut the handle of the axe down to fit the shovel.

 

[Staffsargent]

I am looking for a radiator, if you got a extra?

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I am looking for a radiator, if you got a extra?

I do not sorry


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[jatonka]

I have a spare M35 gasser radiator. PM me.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well, been slowly prepping for the Weare show, so I had to fix my exhaust manifold leak, had the intake and exhaust planed/surfaced, all put together, rebuilt the carburetor with a kit from Mikes Carburetor(carburetor-parts.com ; Seemed like a well built kit.) had a little issue of not quite returning to idle, figured out it was just mis-adjusted linkage, I had to change two of the ball-studs to heim joints as they failed, and because of that I failed to adjust it correctly.

I timed it tonight, with help from my dad, was timed to TDC, changed to 4 degrees advanced per my manual. Sounds great now, hopefully tomorrow drive to/from work will prove it will run that much better as well., any idea what total advance should be? we revved it up, it advanced pretty far, it isn't necessary to know as it returned to 4 degrees pretty fast, so we know that the springs are all right, not worn or broken. It is just nice to make sure your timing is correct by making sure top advance is close. (I.E. if total advance is 30, but it only advances 20, then I would know I have another issue)

I do have one more exhaust leak, it is very possible I will have to get/make a new pipe from the elbow back to the muffler, turns out my hidden leak is between the flange and pipe, not the flange/flange like I had been checking. More on this later as I investigate.

I will try to remember my dash cam and get video for tomorrow.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

No Video, my dash cam isn't working too well, it is completely dead in the morning, so no morning video, Wednesday I tried to use the windsheild mount, but it fell off due to vibration, so no go there, and today I forgot to charge it in the work truck, so it was still dead.

anyways, seems to run alright, maybe a little better power, I haven't taken the way I normally go because they are doing construction and I just want to avoid it. BUT it still has a very bad hot start issue, almost vapor lock like symptoms when going around at low speeds(like backing down around the garage to park) If I let it sit, 30 mins or so it starts up after cranking just a little, I should have checked if it took a couple pumps from the fuel pump before starting. I have really only run it back and forth to work, so about a 15 minute run...well, maybe 20 based on some of the idling I do as well.

the temp stays right around 165, only starts to creep up to 180 when idling, and goes to 185/190 when the truck gets shut off. I can start it at or below 160 with little to no issue. And if I shut it off myself, with about a minute and a half of idling, I can sometimes start after about a five minute wait.

except for checking fuel pressure, everything else seems to be in working order. Anyone got any ideas? maybe wire in an electric fan to remove the air from the engine compartment??

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Ok, took the normal way home(same time frame, about 15-20 minutes drive, several hills), did all right, still have a little difficulty on one stretch, its a 40mph zone and I can barely keep 30 up the hill, its right at a point I wish I had a gear to split, as it just after the range of 3rd(26mph) and lower end of fourth, and as luck has it low is so low, low 5th is less then third high, that's all right though, I didn't get the truck for its vast amounts of speed, and over the top power

Any ways, payed close attention to the temp gauge after parking, it stayed at 160 pulling into the yard, jumped to 170 by the time I was in reverse and backing into my spot. I let it idle, had some popping out the exhaust, that got worse as it idled, but the temp also kept climbing, right up to 185/190. at that point it had idled for a good 4 minutes, maybe 5 minutes, so I shut her down. I will run right back out to her now and see if she'll start(about 15 minutes wait) and I'll post right back.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

well, it kind of started up, nothing at first, just spun, waited another minute for starter to cool down, gave a pumps of gas, just spun over, so before stopping I held the gas open about a 1/4 and got a few sputters, before coming to life, puff of smoke, so flooded her. it would not hold an idle though, sat it right about 1200rpm I say and she would sound all right, but anything less and she would start to sputter, sound like lack of fuel. but she died during a sputter stage, so I gave one pump of gas, and held throttle open about a 1/4 again and she started right up. But again wouldn't hold an idle.

Oh, temp was at 190 when I got back to her, dropped to 175 after I got her started and revved up to about 1200rpms, seemed to stay right there after I got out, after she died the second time.

Whats the thought on running an electric fan on the radiator in conjunction with the mechanical fan? my thought is the mechanical is not enough to keep the engine cool after a run when just idling, and it needs the extra help.

oh, forgot this in the other post, after the first initial climb in temp I stepped on the gas and got it to drop from 180 to 170, I figure RPM was about 1200 again, and after letting up off the throttle, the temp shot back up. this is why I think an electric fan may help.

 

[rustystud]

Is your radiator totally trashed ? Have you taken it to a good radiator repair shop and had them go over it ? I worked at a radiator shop is Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school. That old fart could do miracles on radiators I thought were total basket cases. These radiators have good bones. Made from solid copper not the junk there made from today. Also have you checked the water pump ? Sometimes the turbine can come loose from the shaft. When the engine is revving there is still enough friction on it to move, but at idle it basically just sets there. You can test the pump by removing the lower radiator hose and using a long screwdriver try and move the turbine. Or another way is to take the return hose off the pump and the fan belt and turn the pump by hand and see if coolant comes out the return outlet.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Radiator is good, no leaks, no visible repair spots, no hot spots indicating a blockage(used my temp gun). I will check the water pump, didn't think of that, although I feel the opposite should happen( more rpm gives more water resistance, causes impeller to slip),

I thought maybe coolant leak, but level holds steady and maintains a decent amount pressure when removing cap, even a day later


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[rustystud]

Radiator is good, no leaks, no visible repair spots, no hot spots indicating a blockage(used my temp gun). I will check the water pump, didn't think of that, although I feel the opposite should happen( more rpm gives more water resistance, causes impeller to slip),

I thought maybe coolant leak, but level holds steady and maintains a decent amount pressure when removing cap, even a day later


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When the pump is spinning the friction builds up heat and swells the shaft. I know sounds like the exact opposite would happen.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

well, still trying to figure out the heat issue, in the morning it seems fine(roughly 60F, cool no humidity)seems to be at temp(160F); and stays there for over 10 minutes of idling, but there was really no load put on engine as the drive to work is all downhill.

on the way home, the temp would get to 170 going up the long hill on the highway, but cool to 160going down the other side, and stay there till I pulled into the yard, roughly 2 miles later. from there I can back/pull into my parking spot and can barely let it idle 2 minutes before the temp just shoots up. temp goes to about 195, and from there it sounds like vapor lock/starving of fuel-fuel is getting to carb, as the bowl is full, although I have yet to test pressure when hot, still need to figure out a setup to have a gauge mounted to record it, without stopping engine and possibly not being able to restart.

I have checked the flow with engine temp between ambient and 150(roughly, had to disconnect the gauge to run a clear hose back to radiator fill), radiator doesn't seem plugged, accepts the coolant as fast as it takes.

I have been discussing this with my dad as well, and we are maybe thinking that it is building up too much pressure when warm, and that is causing the pump to not move the coolant at an idle. So going to try and run cap loose. Thoughts?

I do want to test an extra fan, and so after one run I plan to hook up a box fan and sit it in front of the radiator, and see if that works as well; just to make sure it is not a air flow issue.