gatorbob
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Thanks, I think I was confusing the slave port with the diagnostics port. My diag port is relabeled with a "Remote Monitor" sign.
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24v charging thru slave port
- Thread starter Daybreak
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gatorbob
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Did anyone ever end up buying the higher amperage connector from Graywacke? I bought the one Daybreak suggested for my trickle charger and it worked great.
After waiting hours for my dead batteries to charge today on my MEP-803A, I am realizing I need a jump start solution.
Curious if anyone is setup for jump starting and what amperage rating they decided was appropriate.
After waiting hours for my dead batteries to charge today on my MEP-803A, I am realizing I need a jump start solution.
Curious if anyone is setup for jump starting and what amperage rating they decided was appropriate.
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Great thread! Thank you.
I went with the Graywacke slave setup.
I use the 24Volt Pulsetech unit.
However I am having trouble getting the unit to work past the "no battery connection" warning.
I run a keyed battery cutoff switch at the battery cover. It does not charge whether switch is in on/off position.
Any ideas?
Thanks
I went with the Graywacke slave setup.
I use the 24Volt Pulsetech unit.
However I am having trouble getting the unit to work past the "no battery connection" warning.
I run a keyed battery cutoff switch at the battery cover. It does not charge whether switch is in on/off position.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Howdy,
I would suggest that if your batteries really die, that they be charged 12v individually. The slave port works good for charging and trickle charging. Every now and then I take off the slave port connector and put the clamps on, and give the batteries a individual charge check-up.
Double check your wiring in the graywacke connector. - and + setups.
Double check that the slave port itself is connected and working too.
I would suggest that if your batteries really die, that they be charged 12v individually. The slave port works good for charging and trickle charging. Every now and then I take off the slave port connector and put the clamps on, and give the batteries a individual charge check-up.
Double check your wiring in the graywacke connector. - and + setups.
Double check that the slave port itself is connected and working too.
Jerryparentii
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Where do you buy the solar trickle charger for the slave port
OLDBEAR1234
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What is the replacement for the NOCO G7200? I see it is discontinued.
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The GENIUS10 is the closest replacement, but it doesn't have a 24v mode. NOCO's cheapest 24v charger is now $500.
OLDBEAR1234
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DANG!
OLDBEAR1234
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Is there any chance of reviving theses with the right charger?
Jeepadict
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My G7200 had died a few months prior, and I couldn't bring myself to shelling out that much bread. Got a better idea from some fellas on another thread...while def not interchangeable between units, a far better mousetrap IMO. Give it a look, post #14:
Another 802A thread...but finally it's "my" 802
Been some time I've been wanting a sibling set of 802 and 803 units mounted on 116A3 trailers...the 802 being most desired ATM. (Last summer I brought home an unmolested 101A3, it needed some TLC so now I have spare parts for both trailers.) Back in Oct of '20 I found this 802 in Phoenix when...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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OLDBEAR1234
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This model does the same thing as the G7200 except it has no 24 volt option, correct?My G7200 had died a few months prior, and I couldn't bring myself to shelling out that much bread. Got a better idea from some fellas on another thread...while def not interchangeable between units, a far better mousetrap IMO. Give it a look, post #14:
Another 802A thread...but finally it's "my" 802
Been some time I've been wanting a sibling set of 802 and 803 units mounted on 116A3 trailers...the 802 being most desired ATM. (Last summer I brought home an unmolested 101A3, it needed some TLC so now I have spare parts for both trailers.) Back in Oct of '20 I found this 802 in Phoenix when...www.steelsoldiers.com
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Gunnermac
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The NOCO 7200 has been replaced by the NOCO G15000 15 amp unit that is advertised as charging a completely dead battery, either 12 volt or 24 volt. I dont know how well it will work as I ordered one yesterday for $176.00, and I have not received it yet. I have owned two G7200 units, one died and when i was going to replace it, I found the G15000 on Amazon.
Jeepadict
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Negative. This is a 2-bank 12v charger. One lead goes to each battery. This method is (in theory) superior to 24v charging at the slave port since it charges/maintains the batteries separately. This way an individual fault can be seen hopefully before a critical need arises.
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I have had what I consider to be good success reviving these batteries. Get a good noco charger and be patient.
If it tells you it's not possible to charge, try this:
Find 1 good decent-sized battery (it doesn't have to be identical, but... not a watch battery either lol), hooking it to the 'flat' battery in parallel (you want to stay 12vdc, not 24vdc). Having that second, good, battery connected to the original, flat, battery can really make all the difference between getting it to work and not.
It's worth a try. It's certainly saved me a pile of $$$ in terms of reviving what some thought were dead batteries.
OLDBEAR1234
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Thanks for that information, I found a NOCO G7200 on ebay still new in the box. I got the first battery on repair mode as we speak. Thanks to all. I don't know how the truck started at all. Govplanet boosted it and brought it out to me, both positive cables were completely loose. Crazy.
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OLDBEAR1234
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Okay it looks like one battery took a charge, the next battery is a no go. I have connected the two as instructed, fingers crossed.
Sorry to dig this back up. But I’m trying to get a charger/slave plug solution setup. I ordered the NOCO Genius Pro 50 and I just ordered the Graywacke cable “GEISLV-LC-10Mini Military Slave Cable” assuming this will work. What do you folks do to connect the slave plug to the NOCO?
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If you have a 24v charger just connect it to the slave cable and plug the cable into the truck port.
Make sure the polarity is correct. I'll be doing it soon myself.
Make sure the polarity is correct. I'll be doing it soon myself.
I need to look up the polarity. I’m sure it’s on here somewhere. That would def be a catastrophe if I crossed them.
looks like this is the idea based off what I am seeing:
In a NATO plug, the center hole is positive while the surrounding part is negative.
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