55Mph Detonation. . .

[Srjeeper]

Srjeeper:

I'm interested in knowing why you asked about the spin on filter conversion, I'm planning on this upgrade for my deuce........is there something I need to know about?

No not at all, they're one of the best upgrades you can do to a multi. It allows for nearly instant oil pressure at start-up, but I saw them on FMJ's truck and was just wondering if S&C had them on his also. Just thinkin out loud and lookin for simularities as to why this may have happened twice and both with close to the same amount of hrs..

 

[Billy Bobbed]

You guys got me scared now, I dont want to start or drive mine now.Sorry dude

 

[GoHot229]

Unless the spin-on's reduced the flow, it's doubtfull, but that would be reflected in oil presure at the gauge. Oil volume and pressure are two different things here though. but theres been a rash of explodeing multifuels in the last couple months.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

"Roger, HOUSTON, we have achieved TERMINAL VELOCITY and will be commencing RE-ENTRY procedures.... Ka-BOOM!!!"

Hope your resurrection goes smoothly, inexpensively, and quickly.

Tell us more about the "Forensic Investigation" and what you determine caused your cat's-ass-trophy (catastrophe). Thanks in advance.

 

[stumps]

Did you by any chance find the bearing shells? It would be interesting to look at them and see if they are spun, blued, or just clean.

From the damage I can see, I would guess that your rod was thrown by excess speed for its physical condition, not by a bearing seize. It could be that a rod nut backed off, or a hidden flaw in the bolt, or cap... something like that.

I'm kind of worried, as that is the same engine I have, reman'd at about the same time as mine.

Has anybody thrown one at 2200 RPM yet? The last two I have heard about were at 55MPH.

Also, is there any pattern to which rods are breaking? (Cylinder 5, 6, ...)

-Chuck

 

[FMJ]

Well, looking at the rod bolt that remains in the rod, it looks like it was metal fatigue, as there is an old break area and a NEW, as in this morning, break area. The crank rod journal is smooth, so, this was a rod bolt failure as near as I can tell.

I shouldn't have a problem finding a replacement motor though. . .

 

[jwaller]

ya rod bolt failure. prob over sped a long time before you had it and it just now manifested itself.

 

[badgmc56]

I would be curious to know if the gov's on these engines were set correctly. Just because the tach says DANGER , I would not trust that. I wouldn't rev to that mark. My gov. kicks in about 2300 if the tach is correct. Maybe we should slow it down a bit to be sure we don't blow all our trucks up.

 

[stumps]

There's something about the picture of the rod that bothers me... There is a wrist pin attached to that rod that landed in the road.

I wonder where the piston went?

For the wrist pin to be still pressed into the rod, (and be outside of the engine without the piston), the bottom of the piston had to have been ripped free of the top of the piston right at the wrist pin.

Let's assume that the rod broke at the cap, and allowed the piston to drop, and crank to wack it through the side of the engine. The piston is relatively soft, I don't see it shattering right at the wrist pin. I think you would have to beat on it quite a lot with a sledge hammer to make that happen... if at all. Surely in all that hammering, you would break the rod at the wrist pin?

Puzzling!

-Chuck

 

[stumps]

Well, looking at the rod bolt that remains in the rod, it looks like it was metal fatigue, as there is an old break area and a NEW, as in this morning, break area. The crank rod journal is smooth, so, this was a rod bolt failure as near as I can tell.

I shouldn't have a problem finding a replacement motor though. . .

You might not need one. It depends on what is broken inside. You might just have some scars on the counter weights, a missing piston, and a hole in the side of the block. A little JB weld and masking tape, and the hole problem is fixed. Scars don't matter unless they are really deep, or are on the bearing surface.

There doesn't seem to be any shortage of engines with 5 out of 6 pistons and rods, and a small hole in the side

-Chuck

 

[stumps]

ya rod bolt failure. prob over sped a long time before you had it and it just now manifested itself.

Rod bolt failures are usually an assembly problem.. The mechanic that put the engine together probably over torqued the bolt. The bolts are stronger than the rod cap.

-Chuck

 

[11Echo]

Well, looking at the rod bolt that remains in the rod, it looks like it was metal fatigue, as there is an old break area and a NEW, as in this morning, break area. The crank rod journal is smooth, so, this was a rod bolt failure as near as I can tell.

I shouldn't have a problem finding a replacement motor though. . .

Now, that's a backyard I could live with!

 

[DanMartin]

Hey Mark,

Sorry to hear about your spontaneous block ventilation. That winch driveshaft image is pretty amazing....think of the velocity of those parts to bend that thing! (I bet it could be salvaged by taking it to a driveshaft shop and have them cut off the ends and weld in a new shaft section).

Perhaps this is a great opportunity to put an LDS-465 motor in? That's what the previous owner of my deuce did....that 5 ton motor really wakes up the old deuce, and it's an easy swap. If you can find a crate motor, I would highly recommend it.

Keep us all posted on the repair job man....I know I'm anxious to see you get this sucker back on the road.

 

[Nonotagain]

There's something about the picture of the rod that bothers me... There is a wrist pin attached to that rod that landed in the road.

I wonder where the piston went?

For the wrist pin to be still pressed into the rod, (and be outside of the engine without the piston), the bottom of the piston had to have been ripped free of the top of the piston right at the wrist pin.

Let's assume that the rod broke at the cap, and allowed the piston to drop, and crank to wack it through the side of the engine. The piston is relatively soft, I don't see it shattering right at the wrist pin. I think you would have to beat on it quite a lot with a sledge hammer to make that happen... if at all. Surely in all that hammering, you would break the rod at the wrist pin?

Puzzling!

-Chuck

My money says that the remains of the piston are still residing in the cylinder liner.

With this engine using an offset connecting rod cap, it appears that one rod bolt failed liberating the connecting rod, which was in the way when the crankshaft continued rotating. The crankshaft struck the connecting rod and forced it out the side of the block. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/deuce/155043d1259437900t-55mph-detonation-carnage-002.jpg

The rod bolt as you stated probably was over torqued and stretched. Spinning four plus pounds of piston/connecting rod at 2500 rpm for long periods of time is a recipe for failure.

 

[stumps]

My money says that the remains of the piston are still residing in the cylinder liner.

I guess it could be. The wrist pin bearing surface is more oriented towards the piston pushing on the rod than it is for the piston pulling on the rod.

I think it would be wise to keep these engines down around 2200 RPM. 2200 RPM is quite fast for a long stroke engine with such heavy pistons.

-Chuck

 

[dmetalmiki]

WOW! sorry for your demise..hope you get lucky in a fix up for it..This the reason I fitted pre-lube pumps on all my multifuel trucks. just coudnt stand the anxiety phase waiting for some oil pressure for ages! now I have (at least) 15 psi BEFORE I hit the go button.

 

[FMJ]

Well, looking in the hole in the block, I can see something that looks alot like a piston in the oil pan area. . .


Hey Gimpy, my other truck sold today, that guy from Albuquerque showed up with cash in hand! So today wasn't a complete loss!

 

[shootiniron]

That really sucks Ed, sorry to see that. Maybe you do a re-power with a Cummins, just a thought.Makes wonder about the health of mine as when I bought it I drove it home about 400 miles at 2500 rpm's on the average.Still starts and runs fine but with all that you've encountered you still wonder. Maybe its time to upgrade to a 5 ton with the Cummins. keep us informed on your course of action!

 

[steelandcanvas]

No I don't have the spin-on filters, it was to be a future upgrade though. As far as warming the 'Ol Girl up, I gave her the minimum 5 minute turbo warm up time, and slowly putted through the sub-division, never getting out of 4th gear Hi. The temp was in the upper 50s, and she had been setting outside in the sun. I'll keep you Guys informed as to what we find when we pull her down. Maybe even take pictures for those photo impaired types.

 

[doghead]

Food for thought. As bad as over-revving a Multi fuel is, Lugging one is very bad also. It will really stress the rod bolts and wrist-pins(pistons too).