84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[2INSANE]

Driver side all buttoned up!

 

[2INSANE]

Addressing the leaking freeze plug, I drilled a hole into the freeze plug, let it drain and then flushed out the coolant with my hose until there was no more green coolant coming out.

After the coolant was drained, I used a flathead and hammer on one side of the plug and pounded the side of the plug in so it turned. Once it was turned I used my rat tooth vice grips and pulled the plug out.

 

[2INSANE]

Next I flushed out the other side of the motor with the hose and letting it drain out of the water pump.

After the whole motor was flushed and drained of all that nastiness, I cleaned the freeze plug hole first with a wire wheel, then Scott’s pad and with brake cleaner.

Then I cleaned the freeze plug with brake cleaner, put RTV on and pounded it in with my 24mm socket and hammer. Then cleaned off the excess.

 

[2INSANE]

Next I wire wheeled the driver side exhaust ports on the motor and cleaned it with brake cleaner.

Using the copper spray a gasket, I sprayed the motors exhaust ports 1 coat.


To save time and money, I refurbished each exhaust manifold bolt with the wire wheel. Then I added anti seize on each end of the bolts.

Then I wire wheeled the driver exhaust manifold, cleaned with brake clean and sprayed 2 coats of the copper gasket maker on it.

 

[2INSANE]

To install the driver manifold, I put the correct bolts in just the very ends of the manifold and carefully tightened the bolts by hand without letting the manifold touch the block. Then I installed the rest of the bolts by hand leaving the gap between the head and block.

Starting with the two center bolts I tightened them by hand with my socket until the manifold touched the block. Then I tightened each bolt from center to outward to get an even press. Then I torqued the manifold bolts to 30 foot pounds instead of 18-26 because I added a lot of anti seize.

 

[2INSANE]

Before installing the passenger side Banks Manifold, I cleaned the pyro probe hole threads with a wire brush and then sprayed it out with brake clean. After cleaning you can see a lot of the threading is deteriorated from corrosion, excessive overheating and over boosting from the previous owner.

I refurbished every bolt and put anti seize on the ends.

Next I wire wheeled the manifold, blew it out with compressed air and then cleaned it with brake cleaner on a paper towel. Added 2 coats of the copper spray on the manifold.

 

[2INSANE]

Then I wire wheeled the exhaust ports and bolt holes, cleaned them with brake clean and added 1 coat of the copper spray.

Using my same method to install the manifold on the driver side, I got the banks manifold on. Mind the gap

More Power on the diesel page forums mentioned how close the manifold is to the mechanical fuel pump. I can imagine the crossover pipe would be just as close. It would be a lot of heat in that area. I’ll do a mock up with the crossover tomorrow.

I really like mechanical things. You never know when the zombie apocalypse will happen. Or a EMP...

 

[2INSANE]

For shits and giggles I mocked up the HX35W on the Banks Manifold.

Woah, this sucker is freaking huge compared to the 6.2!

I wish I could have this baby on her but I don’t feel comfortable putting it on a 36 year old motor with such high compression. I guess I could turn the waste gate down but I honestly don’t want to get the boost bug.. lol

When I get excited thinking about the hx35w, read what banks has to say...

 

[2INSANE]

Today after work I went to a friends house and made a deal. In return, he gave me most of his serpentine pulleys, the tensioner, dual thermostat water cross over, 6.5 timing plate and 6.5 alternator.

Got home and started cleaning up the Banks turbo. First I wire wheeled all the rust from the exhaust flanges.

Then for the oil drain I cleaned it with brake cleaner, wire brushed it and cleaned again with brake cleaner.

 

[2INSANE]

Then I wire wheeled the oil drain tube and cleaned it with brake cleaner. To try an experiment I added 3 coats of copper spray on the end of the oil drain and then connected it to the turbo.

Next I put copper spray on the exhaust flanges.

Then I took a step to the auto parts store and picked up 4 grade 8 bolts for the flange because the old bolts were bent.


I installed the turbo and the oil drain hose.

 

[2INSANE]

Off with the water pump and plate! Wire wheeled the block where the water pump plate went. Don’t forget the holes!

Using the angle grinder, I refurbished the 6.5 water pump plate. It was bad and a lot of work!

 

[2INSANE]

Comparing the 6.2 water pump plate to the 6.5 water pump plate. The bolt hole pattern is exactly the same just in reverse. I feel kinda bad for the 6.2 water pump because it’s less then 1 year old. Maybe I can sell it or use it for the spare 6.2 motor I have. Hmm..


Also the reason why I wear a full respirator is because there is a lot of harmful chemicals I am dealing with.

Aluminum Oxide
Brake Cleaner fumes
Rtv fumes
Asbestos from old gaskets
Dirt
Rust
Spray paint fumes
Copper Spray fumes
Diesel Fuel fumes is harmful as well
I imagine coolant fumes is bad too
Fibers in the air from the Grinder disks
Let’s not forget the old lead paint on the block

A full respirator with organic filters are a MUST HAVE! It’s about time to replace my filters. I strongly encourage anyone doing this kind of work on their motor to wear one!

 

[joshuak]

Good call on the respirator reminder, an overlooked item of PPE, for sure.

 

[Rutjes]

Great thread, I'm taking notes for future endeavors!

 

[2INSANE]

Glad you guys like it! It seems 6.2’s are becoming a thing of the past and right now more people with a budget are more interested in the 6.5’s

Back 10 years ago there were 6.2 threads all over the place and everyone was trying to figure out how to squeeze as much power out of them. It’s crazy how much has changed.

I feel old working on an old motor and putting outdated old upgrades on.

 

[2INSANE]

Right now, I am waiting for the experimental water pump to show up. While I am waiting, I decided today to go back to the Fuel Injection Pump woes...

First off, after more research I come to find the badger diesel injection pump I bought was actually for a 92 6.2 diesel. It was tuned and calibrated for the 92. The posting was for all 6.2 diesels but learning now that not all 6.2 injection pumps are the same. There are certain pumps made for certain years and model motor. Badger diesel should have known better before selling their pumps as an all general use.

Awe well... So looking at the original J code injection pump that came with this motor, low miles, but weather worn because there was no hood on the donor.

I was able to remove the bolt that corroded and broke. I used my torch to heat up the aluminum to help separate the threads from heat expansion. Since I have many spare injection pumps, I pulled the oldest and crappest one out of one of my 6.2 spare part boxes.

Taking off the good parts I needed, I then took off the cap on the good injection pump, throttle position sensor, rocker arm and throttle shaft.

The goal is to replace the old rubber O-rings to prevent the very common fuel leak from that area. But darn it! The parts store is closed! Lol!

more pics on next post...

 

[2INSANE]

Pics continued

 

[2INSANE]

I finished doing the throttle shaft O-Rings and put the injection pump back together.

Cleaned up the injection pump mounting locations with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Got the new injection pump gasket on.

I installed the ip and refurbished the 3 gear bolts, added blue lock tight and torqued to 20 foot pounds.

 

[2INSANE]

Then installed the three nuts mounting the ip to the timing plate and made sure the 2 timing marks are perfect.

Next up, I cleaned up the rear coolant plate covers with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Then refurbished the bolts and reinstalled the plates with the bolts in their correct locations. Making sure the longer grounding bolt has a very generous amount of lock tight on it.

I don’t like to waste and spend much money if I can. I squeezed every last bit of rtv from the tube that had hardened on the end and got the job done!

 

[2INSANE]

I really want the dual thermostat coolant cross over. I did a mock up and it’s hitting the the throttle cable plate. I am going to tackle this problem and will post lots of pictures for you all since it is not a common upgrade for the 6.2.