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Charlie's Deuce Thread

frank8003

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Forgot to mention I rolled down the driver window and it went clunk and the hand crank just free wheeled. I could pull the window up but it wouldn't engage. Took the access cover off and couldn't see much but eventually got the scissor frame down and one of the sides was off. Put that back together and it cranks now all the way up but only comes half the way down. It like it gets jammed. I can't see much so I have no idea what is getting stuck. The TM diagram shows the parts so I guess I will have to tackle that when it gets warmer again, snow today so back to winter!
Clips on bottom rot away, felt wears out, stuff fails. Protect back of hands good, it is tight space in there.
Me thinks if these things where ever greased then they wouldn't fail.
Mine took only 50 years to fail, they don't build them like they used to.
I paid about $2.50 each back then, thought that was outrageous but can not make them.
Now this is outrageous ........................... shop 'till you drop.....
window reg clip IMG_4063.JPG
 

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frank8003

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And I have used a roll of shop towels and several used bath towels to clean both hubs out. Gobs of grease! Cleaned and Labeled and separated each sides parts. Also ordered a 5 gallon pail of Lucas tacky red grease. $139 ouch.... Add that to the $80 for 5 gallons 80-90w and $88 worth of parts cleaner
Newspapers for pulling out old grease and Dawn for cleaning and real GAA is cheaper.....
 

Charlie175

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Clips on bottom rot away, felt wears out, stuff fails. Protect back of hands good, it is tight space in there.
Me thinks if these things where ever greased then they wouldn't fail.
Mine took only 50 years to fail, they don't build them like they used to.
I paid about $2.50 each back then, thought that was outrageous but can not make them.
Now this is outrageous ........................... shop 'till you drop.....
View attachment 855002
Awesome, thanks. I am missing the 2 clips. Looks like I could use a thin washer and a C-Clip? To pull the window out, you remove both arms from the guides and pull it out the top?
 

frank8003

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I could NOT make anything work in place of the original clips I pictured.
I think I still have some of the original new clips here someplace.
See the photo and pull the srews on the rear stopper piece, move the X slide thing in
position to make up with the slide round holes and that detaches it so one can pull the
window glass itself out the top.
Then one can get a good flashlight looksee as to how it all works and is attached.
Look at the door and see the three of four screws holding everything (The X mechanism ) in place.
Do a better write up and pictures than I did.
 

DaneGer21

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Dang... Yessir, I do believe those boots were due for a change-out.

I saw somebody here post the old adage about boats: "A Hole In The Water Into Which You Pour Money". Seems sometimes that these big green (and white and red) are the same way. Looking at those boots, your truck is a lot like mine. They have been neglected over the years - and it will take years to whip them back into shape.

Thing is, with lots of time and a short stack of money they will be ready to go play one day soon... On a lighter note, at least you and I can fix our trucks. Some of these folks that hire that work would really be paying the big bucks to fix some of these things!
B.O.A.T. = Bust Out Another Thousand
 

Charlie175

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I had heard that also about boats many years ago. I purchased in 2000 a Bayliner 1950ss and have had very little trouble with it. Same with my brothers with their boats, hardly any issues. Now I would imagine a larger boat would get expensive fast.
 

Charlie175

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It will be interesting to hear your opinion on if the shock improved the ride or no?
My son redid the seat foam for me so I reinstalled that. With the new shock, me making motor noises and bouncing up and down, it seemed to work OK. Road test will have to be after I get the front hubs back together.
 

Charlie175

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Find got some time and warmer weather (35 and rain) yesterday to tackle the reinstall of the front hub boots. Took about 4 hours to do 1 side. Needed to warm my hands several times and the hub was complaining about sliding over the pinion shafts. It popped right off, but it was a stubborn 2 year old getting back on. Lost an hour doing that. The rubber boot was a pain. Even with using clamps the larger side was a pain to get in the groove and stay there. I had to walk away a few times and mumble a few things....
Now to get time to do the other side.
 

Charlie175

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Took 1/2 day off and finished up the right front axle boot and regreased everything. This side went much smoother, I'm learning!

Went to start the truck and it cranked 1 time and nothing. Checked all the battery connections, no go. Then I cleaned up the starter connection and bam I had power. Started the truck but after a minute or so the air buzzer went off and I saw a spark come from under the left side of the dash. Lost all power so I shut the truck down. I could not see a issue but something shorted. I guess I have to pull the dash to see what went on. Trace the main power lead and see? No fuses so not exactly sure what to look for other than a burned wire?
 

Mullaney

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Took 1/2 day off and finished up the right front axle boot and regreased everything. This side went much smoother, I'm learning!

Went to start the truck and it cranked 1 time and nothing. Checked all the battery connections, no go. Then I cleaned up the starter connection and bam I had power. Started the truck but after a minute or so the air buzzer went off and I saw a spark come from under the left side of the dash. Lost all power so I shut the truck down. I could not see a issue but something shorted. I guess I have to pull the dash to see what went on. Trace the main power lead and see? No fuses so not exactly sure what to look for other than a burned wire?
.
Well, gotta take advantage of being happy with fixed axle boots...

Maybe the spark and flash will be a simple fix.
A spark generally leads to something you can see, so hopefully it is obvious.
 

Charlie175

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Easy way to pull the dash? Looks like bolts on each end, and then around the steering column? I tried to peer up under the dash but I can't contort enough.
Main power feed comes in to the master switch? I checked the starter lead and I have 24v there. Traced the large wiring bundle but didn't see a issue. A concern is my heater fan motor would cut on without the master switch on, but it doesn't now. I think it feeds direct in from the main line so it should have power.
 

HDN

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Easy way to pull the dash? Looks like bolts on each end, and then around the steering column? I tried to peer up under the dash but I can't contort enough.
Main power feed comes in to the master switch? I checked the starter lead and I have 24v there. Traced the large wiring bundle but didn't see a issue. A concern is my heater fan motor would cut on without the master switch on, but it doesn't now. I think it feeds direct in from the main line so it should have power.
Did you try using a cell phone camera or a mirror to look first? My phone's been really useful for stuff like that.
 
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