CUCV - air conditioner transplant?

[SGT LongT]

I just check online with Lowes, but doesn't say anything about an "icy weather barrier," but is listed for roof repair. I found it at my local store in the 6" x 25' roll, but can order it online at 36" x 33 1/2' if you need to cover larger area. I have already put some in the tailgate of my M1009 while I was replacing the window regulator. I cut to fit, peeled and pressed it on, and used a little 1.5" roller to really press down. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/5...ne-your-cucv-today-lately-106.html#post917332

 

[jdeoliveira74]

i was doing some research after i posted and found that they say it wasnt designed for vertical surfaces and will fail over time!! Due to I being made from asphalt is what they were saying.

 

[Dave Kay]

Ok, Peel N Seal looks like a good option and lots of guys seem to like it. Only I'm not seeing any R-factor, you know, like what is its actual insulation rating. If for example someone lives in the desert and is trying to keep out very seasonallu high heat as opposed to some body in Alaska where it's not as hot. Would be interesting to discover what this stuffs THERMAL insulating qualities are in different climate/regions.

 

[Dave Kay]

Another thing I've used in the past, and it works really well, is this temporary window tint that's really dark, almost opaque and not very easy to see through; LINK

Some might find this useful on a long road trip to prevent sunlight from heating up the cab as well as passengers. Just slap it on over your already tinted glass and you're good to go. And the great thing is it's removable when you don't need as much dark-tint.

 

[SGT LongT]

Dave thanks for the link I will find some of the 5% and try it out. If someone tries to give me a ticket I'll just peel it off and put it back on later

 

[ODFever]

Thanks for all the useful hints on insulating the A/C lines. I just joined this forum and already I see how valuable this community is. I appreciate the tips and will implement them to help me get through this hot summer.

Shkira,
I didn’t change out the side window gaskets. Mine are in pretty good shape.

I have a correction on the R12 needed for your truck. My father-in-law helped me rebuild my A/C system and I honestly couldn’t remember how much R12 we used. I asked him tonight and he said we used a little less than 3 12 oz cans with my HR6. Your system might use a bit more. Sorry for the misinformation.

The service manual CD saved me a lot of headaches. The CD came with a 75 MB PDF that, if printed, would equate to 1200 printed pages. I think it cost me $30 + shipping. Well worth it. I had some electrical problems with my A/C system along with the imploded compressor and failing control unit. I was able to track down the wiring harness that was added to my truck, as well as diagnose and repair the problems with the control unit.

I'm going to take my CUCV over to the local body shop to find out if they'd pull the topper off and replace the gasket for me. I don't think I have the tools or time to do the job.

 

[andytk5]

Any updates on the R12 temperatures??

 

[shkira]

Back to R12 Freon

Sorry for the delay. Been offline for a while.
After many tries last summer with 134, then a propane/butane mix I gave up and redid the system back to R12. That worked! Amazing the system works as designed with the proper working fluid. That is the only thing I will go with. It has not been 100 here yet but close. The other fluids worked but not satisfactorilly. If only extended highway driving did it stay cooler (not cold). With the R12 I was able to have cool all the time. Even when in mixed and city driving.

If I recall the temps would get to 50. Not as frigid as I'd hoped, but at least worth the involved effort. As expected the temp would creep up a bit after extended slow driving (2 - 5 degrees) but way better than anything else I tried. From all my trials I decided a future project would be to increase the mechanical fan to the largest I could fit. Others have written about using a Duramax fan. I haven't done it yet and not sure when I will get to that project due to my time constraints but its on the list. For now works acceptably.
The problem seems to be that the condensor doesn't get enough airflow from the smaller diesel fan (15"). This is why the temps would rise 10 -12 degrees with the 134 and propane/butane mix. Combine that with the already higher temps of those fluids and it just was lousey.

If I ever do redo the system again I would like to switch out the condensor for a larger one designed for 134. Just don't know if I can make it fit as I added an extra fan in the grill and trani cooler.

The other thing I did after I switched back to freon was added heat shielding and sound insulation when I replaced the flooring. That was amazing, well worth the investment. Much cooler in the summer, and warmer in the winter. I hate the way there are bulges in the flooring now but the trade off is nice. Took a couple weeks to get used to the new sound of the truck inside the cab. I can actually talk on the phone in a normal voice. People no longer tell me that it sounds like I have all the windows down going down the highway!

 

[brazengoat06]

all five pages promise pics of compressor mounting that retain 24v setup... Pics Please!!

 

[ChevyC60]

Pic's

 

[ChevyC60]

More

 

[Skinny]

Things to keep in mind

-a pusher electric fan on the condenser will supplement heat transfer at low engine/vehicle speeds
-replacing an old accumulator which may no longer be able to absorb moisture in the refrigerant
-remove the expectation of seeing sub 50 degree vent temps when it is freakin' hot out with 100% humidity
-be sure to clean all of the fins and make sure they are straight

R-134 should be able to compete with R12 as far as vent temps go but keeping a dark Cuck Vee with no insulation value cold with components designed for R12 will produce less than desirable results.

 

[shkira]

Sorry thought I had posted pix long ago... Interior shots just show the vents. Had to lose the radio mount I had on the dash to make room for the vent. Had to move the volt meter too. Skinny is right about the cab insulation. Made a big difference in both interior heat and sound. Still get a ton of heat from the roof though. Best return on cost vs effort was insulating all the lines under the hood. Cost about $20 and got 5 degrees at the vent. I went with Tan CARC vice green or woodland camo for more heat rejection. Tinted windows also. I added an electric pusher fan to augment the regular radiator fan. In the future I would like to change out the regular fan and upsize to the Duramax and fan shroud. I could only fit one pusher and I don;t get the feeling that it moves enough air since I get too much temp rise at idle. Probably most crucial point is make sure not to waste time with stock tube and fin condenser. Spend the money and get the biggest parallel flow condenser that will fit. Don't have to go OEM as there are other companies who make aftermarket.

 

[shkira]

M1009 with "factory" air and dual mil alternators

More...with my configuration had to custom make the suction and discharge lines. Also stubborn micro leak always had me stumped for a long time. Think I finally figured it out. No matter how many low pressure switches I swapped out always had slow leak off the drier/filter/accumulator. Hopefully "Nylog" refrigerant thread sealant will solve it.

With relocating both alternators to the passenger side I will make one more mod in the future. I have to have the belt very tight since don't get much pulley exposure for the interior alternator. I will make them dual pulley and add another belt since in the winter when the plugs load up the electrical system I sometimes get squeal when its recharging the batteries.

 

[brazengoat06]

Thanks for the pics! I'm working on constructing a custom "red neck" bracket for the compressor. Hoping to fit it under and to the side of the drivers alt.

 

[shkira]

Cool. Good luck! My question for C60 and you is with the compressor over-under and not moving the rear battery how do you fit the evaporator? Make sure when you start putting everything together you use a new compressor. Don't bother with a reman since if you use a parallel flow condenser if it fails it grenades the system -- you won't be able to flush the new style condenser. Also don't use the expensive variable orifice tube (VOT)...I was happy in the beginning and it was cooler at idle --- but no free lunch. Developed problem I couldn't figure out after a year or so. Was convinced compressor was toast. Fortunately before shelling out for a new one listened to friend and replaced with the stock $2 GM tube. Magic! Fixed. Stubbornly thought it was a fluke and put in a different VOT. While this one was functioning "normally" had a really hard time drawing a decent vacuum. After a weekend of using 2 stage 6 CFM pump couldn't get it below 750 microns. Opened up the system again swapped in the cheap tube. Bingo -- down to 350 microns in an hour! -- mad that I was chasing the problem for many weekends and wasted lots of refrigerant.

 

[shkira]

One latest recommendation I just retrofitted in after I took those pixs. before you seal up the system add in a liquid line filter (not accumulator-filter/dryer). These don;t have desiccant only screens. This way in the case that the compressor explodes it won't destroy the condenser and force you to flush the entire system. There are various manufacturers who even make ones with replaceable elements. I went with a 4 seasons part number 34-508 since I didn't want to cut in and deal with compression fittings. This one bolted in conveniently between hi side line and condenser. In an ideal world I would be able to fit in a suction side filter too but on this system couldn't make it fit. Hopefully any junk would back flow and get trapped in the filter dryer.

 

[shkira]

Obviously, I went the red neck way too except I did it for the alternators. Just a thought depending upon how you are setting up the evaporator -- if I had to do it again I would probably have swapped both alternators to the drivers side not passenger side. If you put the compressor where the pass alt is then that will shorten the ac lines to the evaporator, make the connection to the condenser easier since the connections are on the passenger side. The less ac lines the cheaper and less refrigerant capacity and it will keep all the ac stuff on one side of the vehicle (assuming evap is on pass side).

 

[shkira]

Insta cling dark tint

Another thing I've used in the past, and it works really well, is this temporary window tint that's really dark, almost opaque and not very easy to see through; LINK

Some might find this useful on a long road trip to prevent sunlight from heating up the cab as well as passengers. Just slap it on over your already tinted glass and you're good to go. And the great thing is it's removable when you don't need as much dark-tint.

Dave
Have you used this on top of regular tint? How long have you kept it on your tint if you have used on top of? I have a couple rolls of this in the garage but weary to use it. Don't want it to stick and damage my regular tint.

Thanks

 

[brazengoat06]

Mine is actually an m1010 that has been swapped from duvac to regular cucv so I'm trying to mount a compressor to run the rear box