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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

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That's one question I'd like to know the answer to as well. Could be a simple as that the centers are moved inboard.
Or turned around in the rims. I don't remember where the drop center is on a stock wheel.
Might have to give doing one of the two a try, since I'd really would like a wider track width.
 

felixcatski

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Curl the bucket up and pull the stick in, then let boom down a good bit. Pull back at full throttle, and just when it's close, push the lever away from you. It goes over-center and snaps into locked position. Takes a little practice.
 

The FLU farm

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Hey, Felix, I'm guessing that you're looking through older posts.
It'd be helpful if you could quote the original post, or at least mention the number of the post, so that I'd have an idea what your posts are supposed to refer to.
Your second one I can tell has to do with how to lock the backhoe into transport position. Which on my SEE does not require full throttle - heck, it feels uncomfortable enough to have it come at you at the lowest speed possible, I think.
 

felixcatski

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franklin, KY
Hey, Felix, I'm guessing that you're looking through older posts.
It'd be helpful if you could quote the original post, or at least mention the number of the post, so that I'd have an idea what your posts are supposed to refer to.
Your second one I can tell has to do with how to lock the backhoe into transport position. Which on my SEE does not require full throttle - heck, it feels uncomfortable enough to have it come at you at the lowest speed possible, I think.
Yeah I'm still learning how to post. Thanks for the advice!
 

thingamadigger

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Hamilton, ON
FYI, when you first get a SEE, there may be air in the cylinders which impairs the ability to achieve the locked position, or to tilt the backhoe back onto the tractor. Air is worked out of cylinders by working them back and forth, and this is best done by using full travel of the piston. Most people will find that the only way to achieve full travel on the main arm is to dig a 16' deep hole! And yes as previously stated pulling with a chainfall from the rops bar may be necessary to assist at first. Or, stop the tilt action halfway, and climb up and actuate the main arm out all the way and back a couple of times, this gets the air out of the pistons. Also, Until mine was fully bled out, I could only achieve the locked position by backing up a barn hill, raising the backhoe straight up in the air, spinning the unit all the way to the passenger side, and then bringing the whole backhoe back towards me, and reversing the lever just as it reached full travel. Yes you will blink as it seems to be heading straight for your face, and anything in the bucket will end up on your head! Be careful and have a spotter, and make sure the loader is firmly down on the front to stabilize the vehicle. You will know when you get all the air out when everything works smoothly, including tilting the folded loader back onto the tractor. Also freshly greasing all the fitting will help reduce the friction from causing binding. Visually checking the lock cylinders when releasing them is necessary as any side load will bind them, and you will not be able to tilt. Good luck.
 

The FLU farm

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Thank God for the SEE!
Today's stupid undertaking was to go get some gravel in a 16-foot dump trailer. Maybe not dumb in itself, but I took a full scoop from the loader, and that was.
When weighed on the way out they said it was nine tons. That's 18,000 lbs. in a trailer with a 16,000 lb. GVWR. No wonder the tires looked half flat.

Anyway, as everybody has guessed by now, the trailer wouldn't dump with that much weight in it.
Got the SEE and pushed enough out with the backhoe, from the side, that the bed would eventually lift part way. After that, the majority of the gravel could easily be pulled out from the rear, using the backhoe. And after that, the trailer would finally dump the rest.

As my dad used to say: A stupid head makes the whole body suffer. Well, at least this dummy didn't have to shovel it out.DSCN1121[1].jpgDSCN1121[1].jpg
 
Question on hydraulic tools... I have been using my SEE for road grading and it works great. Today I went to use the hydraulic chain saw and nothing. Pulled the trigger and got a couple mm of movement. I figured the chain saw may have an issue so I tried all the other tools. Nothing on any of them. I even hooked up a new impact driver and nothing. The back hoe and front loader work great. None of the hydraulic tools work. Yes, I turn the hydraulic tools switch on (which bumps up the RPMs). I don't have good internet access so can't search for a problem resolution. Takes forever to load pages so I am hoping someone may have an idea of the problem and solution. Can anyone suggest what the issue may be? Thx so much!
 

The FLU farm

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Brian, I haven't had any issues with my tool hydraulics, so I can't help you there. Yet, anyway.
But I wanted to congratulate you on your skills with the loader. I wouldn't even think of trying to grade with it...I'm bad enough with a regular tractor.
 
I was very fortunate to have someone over that did a lot of grading with a front loader and he taught me a few things. I dump a load of gravel, put the bucket in front of it, tilt it slightly down, and put the bucket down, lifting the front end of the MOG off the ground... Then go in reverse with it in 4WD and it compresses the gravel and flattens it out. I can work it like a bull dozer by putting the bucket down flat and again lifting the front end off the ground by putting the bucket down - it scrapes the ground and fills the bucket. Works great for flattening and compressing. Tomorrow I will start some trenching with the hoe.

I must have an issue with my hydraulic tool circuit them. I thought if the bucket and hoe worked, the tools should work too - not so for me
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
A neighbor once told me about the "dragging in Reverse trick", and I've been most grateful for that. Never tried with the SEE, though.
And there's my hydraulic issue: the loader won't lift the front.
Either way, I guess I need to practice more with the SEE.
And I'll try to think of what might be causing your tool drive issue. It's likely something simple, and hopefully someone here will know.
 

Andyrv6av8r

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Spartanburg,SC
Question on hydraulic tools... I have been using my SEE for road grading and it works great. Today I went to use the hydraulic chain saw and nothing. Pulled the trigger and got a couple mm of movement. I figured the chain saw may have an issue so I tried all the other tools. Nothing on any of them. I even hooked up a new impact driver and nothing. The back hoe and front loader work great. None of the hydraulic tools work. Yes, I turn the hydraulic tools switch on (which bumps up the RPMs). I don't have good internet access so can't search for a problem resolution. Takes forever to load pages so I am hoping someone may have an idea of the problem and solution. Can anyone suggest what the issue may be? Thx so much!
Which hydraulic tool switch are you referring to?
 
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