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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
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113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I get no oil in my pipes at all and where I am it is very dry so no water either. Is there a source for the inflator fittings, are the standard stuff or propitiatory? I am putting on a air hose reel and need to connect it somehow.
I'll measure a factory hose later today and let you know. Never did look into where it's supposed to be connected, but that may be self explanatory once I know what the hose's connector looks like.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I'll measure a factory hose later today and let you know. Never did look into where it's supposed to be connected, but that may be self explanatory once I know what the hose's connector looks like.
It can connect to either side at the rubber capped fitting with the plastic button which needs to be pushed in to open up the valve. I found that out the other day. I was wondering why those were there at all till I found it in the operators manual. I actually want to cap those with a fitting since mine was leaking a little bit and will not need both sides as I will have a 50' hose real permanently connected when done.
 

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
I agree, if anyone actually gets a parts SEE that they don't resurrect, getting dimensions on these components is the first step. I think this link may be a start http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp and I expect there is similar chart for the ball joints on the fixed end.
I have the front axle out of my non- parts parts SEE. I am in need of the drag link myself, so I was hunting around. If memory serves, I had determined that the US trucks are a 7:1 taper while the Mercedes is a 7.5:1 taper. Normal ball joint ends from a domestic truck shop will not fit.(they feel like it, but are only making small contact) I cut down a draglink from a mid 80's international and am trying to figure out what to do: Ream the knuckles to the US taper, try to find a metric drag link, or try to machine a taper adapter(paper thin due to the very small angle difference)

The thing is completely disassembled. Engine out, Trans out
I can measure the track bar ends. I believe they are the same sizes as the drag links.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I'll measure a factory hose later today and let you know. Never did look into where it's supposed to be connected, but that may be self explanatory once I know what the hose's connector looks like.
I am 90% sure that the air fittings are standard 1/2 pipe so a 1/2 Air hose quick release should work. I will buy a couple today (all I have are 3/8 versions) and see if I am right. The trick will be to make sure they press in the button when installed. Alternatively since the female air hose connector is air tight one could just pull the button out. I trust a high quality quick release air fitting far more than those plastic jobs on the FLU any day. Anyway so this way anybody can have air fittings for standard air hose on either side of the truck. I will let you all know how it works later today.
 

Mark1954

Member
84
0
6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
I have to say, I am amazed at the collective wisdom, cooperation and experience of the forum members.
I knew going in that the SEE was a very lightly produced item (1,431 +/- if Wikipedia is correct)
I also knew that many are in a serious state of disrepair, judging from the auction and on-line offers.
So I expected that gaining any assistance with repair issues might be a challenge, but have been very
impressed upon stumbling onto this site and the Benz World site at the dedication many of you have to
keeping these things working correctly. I guess somebody has to love the ugly babies too!

BTW, where do you get the replacement ether canister for the cold starting system? Is it a common source item?
 

Mark1954

Member
84
0
6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
In aviation we use a product called PRIST.
You can buy it over the counter and it works wonders.
Jet fuel is just diesel very refined.
Are either of those products routinely added to PREVENT the problem, or only used to treat it afterwards?
Would Sta-Bil or another product do anything for this issue, or is that just for chemical breakdown of the fuel?
Thanks in advance for input from the forum.
 

Mark1954

Member
84
0
6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
I am 90% sure that the air fittings are standard 1/2 pipe so a 1/2 Air hose quick release should work. I will buy a couple today (all I have are 3/8 versions) and see if I am right. The trick will be to make sure they press in the button when installed. Alternatively since the female air hose connector is air tight one could just pull the button out. I trust a high quality quick release air fitting far more than those plastic jobs on the FLU any day. Anyway so this way anybody can have air fittings for standard air hose on either side of the truck. I will let you all know how it works later today.
Please thread those very carefully at first, so many of the metric threads appear at first glance like the SAE could work, until they cross thread and jam.
(I don't pretend to know what parts were Mercedes(Metric) and which might have been spec'd as SAE to be compatible with the rest of the fleet.)
I hope you are right, that simplifies a lot of potential new plumbing.
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
Are either of those products routinely added to PREVENT the problem, or only used to treat it afterwards?
Would Sta-Bil or another product do anything for this issue, or is that just for chemical breakdown of the fuel?
Thanks in advance for input from the forum.
Diesel fuel conditioner available at any truck stop... Just look where all the Billy Big Riggers hang out.
 

MrSEE

Member
31
0
6
Location
Billings, MT
I second the fire extinguisher in the cab idea. I think I will provide them with the trucks I sell, though clearly I check over wiring to avoid such mishaps.

Super-cool tip.... make sure no wires and connections are hanging down by the exhaust pipe where the heat shield is under the driver seat area of cab. It appears that after servicing some of them aren't bundled up above and/or behind the shield.

No biggie, right?

Well I had a "positive" battery cable start on fire once. Then the insulation melted off and it arc'd to the pipe. Then I had a leaky exhaust for some time. Thankfully the flames didn't travel far.

It's not that these are scary, it's that someone left wires hanging where they shouldn't have been
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
BTW, where do you get the replacement ether canister for the cold starting system? Is it a common source item?

I haven't tried buying one but someone at some point mentioned that NAPA could get them albeit they aren't cheap.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
General Hood, you're the only one I know of with a complete non-runner. Would you please remove a tie rod end from your dead SEE and take the appropriate measurements?
Yes, I know you're busy, but it would be a big help for the rest of us, who have functional SEEs. Besides, the tie rod ends are easily accessible, so it would be a more pleasant job than fiddling with fuel lines etc. in a cramped area.
th16O3F73E.jpg

Too late my friend, non runner is now smooth runner, and yes I'm celebrating a victory. Now on to page 2 of my 87 page to do list
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
First of all, congratulations to General Hood for waking up his slumbering SEE!

911joeblow, I measured the hose, and that female is about 0.564" ID, with a 16 TPI thread, or close to it (hard to measure that small inside thread).
But it sure doesn't look like NPT by a long shot. And with an O-ring in the hose's connector it's highly unlikely that it's pipe thread.

I need to stock up on ether, so I can get a NAPA part number for those interested. They were in stock even at our dinky local store, and I don't recall them being overly expensive. Then again, I had more money back then.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Good day today, not only got the SEE running again, but managed to fix some rat chew wiring in hidden locations. I now have lights! So what if I left an ounce of blood under the hood, dealing with those hard to reach places

IMG_20161026_170401008_HDR.jpgIMG_20161026_170437592.jpg
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
General Hood might be very interested in the remote start feature. He has one SEE which he can't get started in normal fashion, but maybe the remote would do the trick. If nothing else, he could continue his attempts from the comfort of the couch, instead of having to be out in the weather.
Remotestart'sabitofaluxury,I'dlovetostartmyhydronicheaterremotely,though.Anyoneelsehavingtroubletypingspacesonthisforum?Myspacebarworkselsewhere,butthisisabitridiculous,no?I'mtypingspaceseveniftheyaren'tinmypost...alltheotherkeysonthekeyboardworkOKbutthisproblem'skeepingmefrompostinghereatm.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,003
4,565
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Good day today, not only got the SEE running again, but managed to fix some rat chew wiring in hidden locations. I now have lights! So what if I left an ounce of blood under the hood, dealing with those hard to reach places

View attachment 651339View attachment 651341
That just might earn you points of favor as a sacrificial offering to the mighty See Gods in the Sky.
I think you "done" good. [thumbzup]:jumpin:
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
Don Johnson was in Miami Vice. Wrong beach and wrong decade.
IlikeDonJohnson(fromMiamiVice)becausethatholsterhewears,whichhasreallycaughtonsincethen,ishisowninventionasalong-timetargetshooter/gunenthusiast.Alsoracesboats,sowathcingoldMiamiViceisenjoyabletomebecauseIrespectthehelloutofinventors...unlesstheirwebsitestopsrecognizingtypedspacesbetweenwords,25yearsasaWebDeveloperandI'matalosstoexplainthisproblem.ButIguessIfinditentertainingthatmyrun-onsentenceproblemisnowarun-onwordproblem.Anyway,thumbsuptoDonJohnsonforbeingmoreinterestingthananyactorthissideofHarrisonFord, whoreallyisatoughguytosurvivebothaplanecrashandbeingcrushedbyahydraulicdooron-setinthesameyear.GoHanSolo!MayDonorHarrisoncanfigureouthowtotypeaspaceonthisforum,it'sreallybeyondme at this point!!!
 
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Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,003
4,565
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
IlikeDonJohnson(fromMiamiVice)becausethatholsterhewears,whichhasreallycaughtonsincethen,ishisowninventionasalong-timetargetshooter/gunenthusiast.Alsoracesboats,sowathcingoldMiamiViceisenjoyabletomebecauseIrespectthehelloutofinventors...unlesstheirwebsitestopsrecognizingtypedspacesbetweenwords,25yearsasaWebDeveloperandI'matalosstoexplainthisproblem.ButIguessIfinditentertainingthatmyrun-onsentenceproblemisnowarun-onwordproblem.Anyway,thumbsuptoDonJohnsonforbeingmoreinterestingthananyactorthissideofHarrisonFord, whoreallyisatoughguytosurvivebothaplanecrashandbeingcrushedbyahydraulicdooron-setinthesameyear.GoHanSolo!MayDonorHarrisoncanfigureouthowtotypeaspaceonthisforum,it'sreallybeyondme at this point!!!
It's wacky, but I can read what you're saying.

Yeah that Miami Vice with Don Johnson was great wasn't it: the theme song, the Cigarette boats, the weapons; all of it; great stuff.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
I have the front axle out of my non- parts parts SEE. I am in need of the drag link myself, so I was hunting around. If memory serves, I had determined that the US trucks are a 7:1 taper while the Mercedes is a 7.5:1 taper. Normal ball joint ends from a domestic truck shop will not fit.(they feel like it, but are only making small contact) I cut down a draglink from a mid 80's international and am trying to figure out what to do: Ream the knuckles to the US taper, try to find a metric drag link, or try to machine a taper adapter(paper thin due to the very small angle difference)

The thing is completely disassembled. Engine out, Trans out
I can measure the track bar ends. I believe they are the same sizes as the drag links.
Looks like I have a main seal leaking on the front of the transmission. Since you have yours completely disassembled, how bad of a job do you think I would be looking at (and how long)?
 
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