GovPlanet Humvee Arrival and Inspection

[juanprado]

I would use copper coat hi temp antisieze

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The #2 intake manifold bolts on the front to back, back to front bolts get a sealant…they pass into the intake or exhaust area, they are not captive. hope that makes sense.
But, the 4 longest bolts could use something as the water rests on the manifold and eventually gets to the block.
I do a pump every week or so and see the effects.

 

[jake20]

New pump came in from Mac Motors, looks phenomenal. Pretty pics attached.

I’m still trying to scrape off as much old gasket from the intakes as possible, although it’s a real pain to do some of the tight spots. I’ve read that as long as it’s mostly flat, it should be fine as the gasket will form around it anyway. Will still try to get off as much as possible

Will be reinstalling the throttle cable bracket and TPS on the new pump soon as well, need to check the TMs for the TPS alignment it seems. I checked the position from the old pump and I “might” just be able to plop it at the same angle.

I also still have that plunger/spring from the front of the pump that I’m not quite sure about. I noted in an earlier post that it fell out when I removed the old pump. I’m not really sure as to what its purpose is but I’ll try to dig around the TMs to see if I can find any mentions of it. The new pump didn’t come with one either.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Maybe this helps? You have the cover that goes around the fuel lines and held on with hose clamp? 15 and 16 in last pic

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

New pump came in from Mac Motors, looks phenomenal. Pretty pics attached.

I’m still trying to scrape off as much old gasket from the intakes as possible, although it’s a real pain to do some of the tight spots. I’ve read that as long as it’s mostly flat, it should be fine as the gasket will form around it anyway. Will still try to get off as much as possible

Will be reinstalling the throttle cable bracket and TPS on the new pump soon as well, need to check the TMs for the TPS alignment it seems. I checked the position from the old pump and I “might” just be able to plop it at the same angle.

I also still have that plunger/spring from the front of the pump that I’m not quite sure about. I noted in an earlier post that it fell out when I removed the old pump. I’m not really sure as to what its purpose is but I’ll try to dig around the TMs to see if I can find any mentions of it. The new pump didn’t come with one either.

you need to move the plunger and spring over to the new pump

 

[jake20]

Thanks for confirming RWH, and yep @Maxjeep1 I’ve got the rubber cover, but I wasn’t planning on moving it over to the new pump. Seems like a rest haven for moisture and corrosion to me at least.

 

[jake20]

Status Update:

She runs and growls!

- I put the pump back in, I have to thank @HoveringHMMWV for the injector line socket recommendation. Putting the lines back was a breeze compared to taking them off with crows foot wrenches. NOTE: I had a hard time finding a 5/8 injector line socket, use a 16MM 12-point and you'll be fine. Part of this was replacing the #5 injector line as well, was super easy to deal with

- Another note with the pump. I timed it in between where my original mark was and dead center. It is currently slightly offset towards the driver's side, but less than previously

- I didn't put the rubber boot around the pump, and haven't quite found the specific reason for its existence. I took it off the old pump it was more of a rust retention seal than anything as I expected. Unless I dig around and find a compelling reason to do so, I'll likely leave it off

- Hooked up all my glow plugs finally, since I got them all soldered back together properly a while ago

- Changed the fuel filter and strainer, mine was incredibly clean actually, but there was definitely a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the canister. I flushed the canister and cleaned it completely of any particulates. I then filled it back up with diesel before fully re-mounting it again. Didn't want to have to crank the starter for a decade to get it full of fuel again

- Removed all the towels shoved into the intakes and vacuumed the area very well. The first test start was going to be without the intake manifold for obvious reasons, so we don't want anything falling in there

- Loosened the injector line closest to the driver's side to let it bleed air during the first start

- Hooked up the battery and gave it a go, it took about 25 seconds of cranking across 2 attempts to get it started. The first attempt I could see smoke coming out of the EGR outlets on the heads within the first few seconds, and I continued to crank it for about 15 seconds total. The second crank attempt started to develop some darker/thicker smoke coming from the EGR outlets, and then 10 seconds in it growled to life. I tightened up the loose injector, and it ran smooth as can be. I let it run for a minute and then jabbed the throttle a few times, good and quick responses

- Going to deal with the intake manifold and remaining fun stuff later

Video of the 2nd startup:

Pics attached as well

Thanks everyone for the help thus far

 

[Maxjeep1]

Status Update:

She runs and growls!

- I put the pump back in, I have to thank @HoveringHMMWV for the injector line socket recommendation. Putting the lines back was a breeze compared to taking them off with crows foot wrenches. NOTE: I had a hard time finding a 5/8 injector line socket, use a 16MM 12-point and you'll be fine. Part of this was replacing the #5 injector line as well, was super easy to deal with

- Another note with the pump. I timed it in between where my original mark was and dead center. It is currently slightly offset towards the driver's side, but less than previously

- I didn't put the rubber boot around the pump, and haven't quite found the specific reason for its existence. I took it off the old pump it was more of a rust retention seal than anything as I expected. Unless I dig around and find a compelling reason to do so, I'll likely leave it off

- Hooked up all my glow plugs finally, since I got them all soldered back together properly a while ago

- Changed the fuel filter and strainer, mine was incredibly clean actually, but there was definitely a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the canister. I flushed the canister and cleaned it completely of any particulates. I then filled it back up with diesel before fully re-mounting it again. Didn't want to have to crank the starter for a decade to get it full of fuel again

- Removed all the towels shoved into the intakes and vacuumed the area very well. The first test start was going to be without the intake manifold for obvious reasons, so we don't want anything falling in there

- Loosened the injector line closest to the driver's side to let it bleed air during the first start

- Hooked up the battery and gave it a go, it took about 25 seconds of cranking across 2 attempts to get it started. The first attempt I could see smoke coming out of the EGR outlets on the heads within the first few seconds, and I continued to crank it for about 15 seconds total. The second crank attempt started to develop some darker/thicker smoke coming from the EGR outlets, and then 10 seconds in it growled to life. I tightened up the loose injector, and it ran smooth as can be. I let it run for a minute and then jabbed the throttle a few times, good and quick responses

- Going to deal with the intake manifold and remaining fun stuff later

Video of the 2nd startup:

Pics attached as well

Thanks everyone for the help thus far

Did you need anything special to get the 3 nuts off of the block section? I seen some s wrenches but I don’t know if they are necessary or not. I can’t find a 16mm or 5/8 fuel line socket or sensor socket. I seen blackdog has one but I hate to pay 64.00 plus shipping for hopefully a one time use.
You used that set in your pics? It worked out ok?

 

[jake20]

Did you need anything special to get the 3 nuts off of the block section? I seen some s wrenches but I don’t know if they are necessary or not. I can’t find a 16mm or 5/8 fuel line socket or sensor socket. I seen blackdog has one but I hate to pay 64.00 plus shipping for hopefully a one time use.
You used that set in your pics? It worked out ok?

Yep! This is the link to the set of injector line sockets in my pic: DPTOOL 12pt 1/2" Dr L-Type Diesel Injector Line Socket Wrench Set 12 14 16 17 18 19mm (6PCS) https://a.co/d/3TpLeLa


It’s el-cheapo Amazon grade but did the job. For the $30 some bucks, it saved me from inventing a few new curse words and a bunch of time. I have to do the same process on a friend’s truck soon, so it was well worth it. You will want a few extensions as well to reach at some weird angles from afar, but it’s 1000x better than what I was trying to do with the crows foot wrenches.

These are lower profile, so you can turn it more per ratcheting action, they’re 12 point, unlike a crows foot, and they allow you to push forward on the line nut to get it on the pump threads. This specific set is 1/2” drive so I used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.


In terms of the bolts at the injection pump, the 3x outer 12-point nuts can be reached with a 12 point box end 15MM wrench. Clean up the threads on the timing cover housing studs and it’ll make life easier to snug up the bolts with your fingers, then take the 15MM and you can turn it a few degrees at a time to torque, albeit a little tedious. Have to just use your best judgement for torque since you’re not getting a torque wrench in there. Of course this is all with the intake manifold off, not sure what it’s like with the intake manifold on yet, if you wanted to adjust the timing or something later I guess.

Now for the interior pump bolts inside the timing cover, I took a piece of toilet paper tube and shrunk it to fit in the hole, I then slid that in first and then proceeded to do anything with those inside bolts. This way you don’t drop the bolts and end up having to drop the oil pan. Depending on what serial truck you have, you may have a plate in the way of that oil filler access hole. 2001-2002 was about the cutoff year I think, my 04 was easy, my friend’s 01 be a little more complicated.

Phew, long write-up, I hope many find my adventures as educational lol.

 

[jake20]

I put the manifold in a few hours ago actually, will be bolting it and dealing with all the tangential stuff another day. It sticks out like a sore thumb with the new paint job heh.

You may be able to get an idea of the clearance from these pics, but I’d have to confirm once it’s permanently bolted.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I put the manifold in a few hours ago actually, will be bolting it and dealing with all the tangential stuff another day. It sticks out like a sore thumb with the new paint job heh.

You may be able to get an idea of the clearance from these pics, but I’d have to confirm once it’s permanently bolted.

I have the turbo intake and the center is opened up better than n/a engines.
I’m glad you have a running truck!

 

[jake20]

I have the turbo intake and the center is opened up better than n/a engines.
I’m glad you have a running truck! View attachment 876016

Thanks!

Now that’s interesting, do you even have to yank the manifolds to pull the pump on a turbo truck? Or just the turbo assembly in the center?

Was considering a turbo as my next truck down the road, there’s a lot of non-runners on govplanet going for decent prices it seems.

My next hurdle might actually be a chipped flexplate, long story short I didn’t explain the start switch properly and it was attempted to be put back into “start” after the truck was already running. My fault, it happens.

The only symptom I’ve noticed is that sometimes it feels like the starter doesn’t fully grab, no grinding sounds though. Going to see if it gets worse and then start my next research phase if so.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Thanks!

Now that’s interesting, do you even have to yank the manifolds to pull the pump on a turbo truck? Or just the turbo assembly in the center?

Was considering a turbo as my next truck down the road, there’s a lot of non-runners on govplanet going for decent prices it seems.

My next hurdle might actually be a chipped flexplate, long story short I didn’t explain the start switch properly and it was attempted to be put back into “start” after the truck was already running. My fault, it happens.

The only symptom I’ve noticed is that sometimes it feels like the starter doesn’t fully grab, no grinding sounds though. Going to see if it gets worse and then start my next research phase if so.

I have ground my flywheel trying to turn the headlights on.. hahahaha stupid. I had my m1123 that’s perfect but after driving it I wanted a turbo truck with all the bells and whistles. If injection pump fixes mine I will be looking really good! I have the turret hole and connect the b-pillar together. I will keep both as long as I can afford to maintain them. I really like these trucks. I think manifolds have to come off to get fuel lines off. I want to clean and paint my valley also

 

[jake20]

I have ground my flywheel trying to turn the headlights on.. hahahaha stupid. I had my m1123 that’s perfect but after driving it I wanted a turbo truck with all the bells and whistles. If injection pump fixes mine I will be looking really good! I have the turret hole and connect the b-pillar together. I will keep both as long as I can afford to maintain them. I really like these trucks.

Let me know if you need any specific pictures or details from my process, I always take a metric ton, more than happy to share my mistakes

 

[Maxjeep1]

Let me know if you need any specific pictures or details from my process, I always take a metric ton, more than happy to share my mistakes

Really after my question’s and my research my only concern is the timing mark. I see it on my new pump but I can’t see it on the old pump or the block. I only looked at it for a minute and I think once I get in there I will understand. I will turn my pump up before I install it also. I have opened up the exhaust and the air intake so I think it can handle more fuel. Thank you for your help

 

[jake20]

Really after my question’s and my research my only concern is the timing mark. I see it on my new pump but I can’t see it on the old pump or the block. I only looked at it for a minute and I think once I get in there I will understand. I will turn my pump up before I install it also. I have opened up the exhaust and the air intake so I think it can handle more fuel. Thank you for your help

A soft brass wire brush may be able to clean up the timing marks for you to better read them. It seems the general consensus for these trucks is to set them either dead center or very very minimally towards the driver's side, in all my research I've never seen anyone adjust it towards the passenger side on a humvee. 1MM of movement in terms of the marks is 2 degrees worth of timing.

Based on my limited knowledge, some play with the timing until there is the least smoke when pushing the throttle, while if you're me, I just set it barely towards the driver's side and called it a day. I watched some videos on GM 6.5 vehicles that had a computer data output to calculate TDC offset, but that seemed like a futile effort on our types of trucks.

Funny enough, when I spoke to DCP regarding my first rebuild inquiries, they told me they turn up every pump by default. Since I ended up getting the Mac Motors 5149, I just left it all factory default. I looked into the process myself and it looks like a bear once it's already on the truck, so yea it's best to do off the truck if the opportunity is present. The little screw looked like it only has to be turned just barely, maybe 1/10-1/8 of a turn.

 

[jake20]

I put my belt on today, and I've been meaning to ask if mine is easier than the belt on other trucks. It took me all of 5 minutes with a helper to pull down the tensioner while I slip the last piece over the crank pulley.

I've heard of quick disconnects and other jazz being recommended to disconnect power steering / fan clutch lines to get the belt around. Maybe that only applies to certain trucks?

For reference:

- 2004 M1043A2 with Red Dot AC
- Dayco 5081260 Belt

I got the belt number from the old belt, it was barely legible but I was able to find it. Same length as the old one with proper amount of grooves.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Fan belt kicked my azz! I didn’t have any help and finally I had to modify a tool and then it was easy and a 1 man job.

 

[jake20]

Oh wow, yea I just used a 3/8 ratchet with the tube from a hydraulic jack for leverage. I definitely had plenty of clearance, minimal flex on one of the fan blades.

To get the belt off was a little more interesting, but nothing too hard either at least. I used a 15/16 wrench on the alternator pulley to slowly move the fan blades out of the way till I could get to the tensioner with a ratchet.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Oh wow, yea I just used a 3/8 ratchet with the tube from a hydraulic jack for leverage. I definitely had plenty of clearance, minimal flex on one of the fan blades.

To get the belt off was a little more interesting, but nothing too hard either at least. I used a 15/16 wrench on the alternator pulley to slowly move the fan blades out of the way till I could get to the tensioner with a ratchet.

Hahahaha I tried the ratchet and Jack handle and I never could get it in the right spot and have a hand free to work the belt on. That took I made worked so good and I can reach it from the other side. I could have done with just a little help