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Looks like set screw comes out and extension will come off
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GovPlanet Humvee Arrival and Inspection
- Thread starter jake20
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just an extension, press fit no set screw if it's the same as on my M1123
I ended up having to use a couple of rolling head pry bars to get them off of mine.
I ended up having to use a couple of rolling head pry bars to get them off of mine.
Yea the problem is that mine don’t have set screws, I looked for a solid 10 minutes and scraped paint away thinking they were covered up lol
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They have to have a mechanical connection of some kind
If I look very closely, there are splines on the inside of the “extensions”, so the press fit theory does add up. Wanted to verify before possibly destroying something heh
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That’s really weird that they are press fit. Every part has a mechanical fastener and wiper extensions are press fit?
Every day is a surprise with these! Hehe
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I Learned something new!
Autonomy_Lost
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Mine had the set screw, but it was so corroded on there I had to destroy the wiper pivots to get them off.
Word of advice: if you have to remove the wiper pivots, disconnect the linkage from the inside before attempting to unscrew the large nut on the outside. I didnt do that and it turned a 20 minute job into a 2 hour job.
Word of advice: if you have to remove the wiper pivots, disconnect the linkage from the inside before attempting to unscrew the large nut on the outside. I didnt do that and it turned a 20 minute job into a 2 hour job.
While waiting on my starter situation, figured I’d look at the AC and see what my options are. The break in the line was actually close enough to the condenser to cut the line short and re-attach the fitting. Still plenty of slack.
Removing the fitting was easy enough, removing the bad section of line from the fitting was a lot of pulling and wiggling whilst trying not to scuff the fitting’s barbed end.
All in all, I cut the line short, cleaned up the edges, cleaned up the fitting, installed new o-rings, and clamped it back on with some clever use of tools that wasn’t my idea
The clamp fittings are very very tight.
Picking up a vacuum pump and Freon tomorrow to attempt charging it after my truck can start again.
Removing the fitting was easy enough, removing the bad section of line from the fitting was a lot of pulling and wiggling whilst trying not to scuff the fitting’s barbed end.
All in all, I cut the line short, cleaned up the edges, cleaned up the fitting, installed new o-rings, and clamped it back on with some clever use of tools that wasn’t my idea
The clamp fittings are very very tight.Picking up a vacuum pump and Freon tomorrow to attempt charging it after my truck can start again.
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Picked up a manifold set, vacuum pump, several cans of R134A, and a can tap. Spent the morning researching the process for this, still don't know exactly what I'm doing but I'll figure it out I think (probably). For anyone wondering, a standard automotive R134 manifold set with quick-disconnect fittings is exactly what this system uses for the high/low side service ports. I got all my gear from harbor freight, should be fine for the amount of times I'll probably use this.
I ran the vacuum pump with both sides open for about 20 minutes, and it's now been sitting for another 2 hours. Vacuum level hasn't changed, so I think I'm good in that regard. Going to let it sit for a while as a test since I'm waiting on my starter and new receiver/drier anyway.
I ran the vacuum pump with both sides open for about 20 minutes, and it's now been sitting for another 2 hours. Vacuum level hasn't changed, so I think I'm good in that regard. Going to let it sit for a while as a test since I'm waiting on my starter and new receiver/drier anyway.
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I can confirm for 100% now that my wiper extensions were the press fit style. Just yanked them using the claw end of a hammer. To anyone that does this, make sure your hammer or extension doesn’t go flying anywhere including your radiator, they’re on there tight.
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Alright here we go, time for a can of worms that I didn’t want to open lol
Winter is coming and I currently only have water in my cooling system. I’ve gone through several threads of what coolant should be used with no close consensus. I hate to overthink coolant of all things, but topics such as cavitation, wet wall vs. dry wall, silicate levels, people not liking dexcool, and more leave me with more questions than answers.
I’m currently leaning towards the most basic 50/50 ethylene glycol green mix if I can find it. I plan on flushing the truck with a few more jugs of distilled water, and then pouring in a coolant mix till I get the desired %
I need to do a flush on my deuce as well as it’s long overdue, figure now’s the time to ask if anything. Hope I don’t start a war
Winter is coming and I currently only have water in my cooling system. I’ve gone through several threads of what coolant should be used with no close consensus. I hate to overthink coolant of all things, but topics such as cavitation, wet wall vs. dry wall, silicate levels, people not liking dexcool, and more leave me with more questions than answers.
I’m currently leaning towards the most basic 50/50 ethylene glycol green mix if I can find it. I plan on flushing the truck with a few more jugs of distilled water, and then pouring in a coolant mix till I get the desired %
I need to do a flush on my deuce as well as it’s long overdue, figure now’s the time to ask if anything. Hope I don’t start a war
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Plain ole green. Dont overthink it
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Cheap green conventional coolant.
If all you have right now is plain water, you can pretty much run any diesel compatible coolant, but why not stick with what's cheap, works, and commonly available?
If all you have right now is plain water, you can pretty much run any diesel compatible coolant, but why not stick with what's cheap, works, and commonly available?
Autonomy_Lost
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Whatever you do, dont look at the giant coolant thread here. You'll come out with more questions than answers
The TM says green ethylene glycol, so thats what I used.
The TM says green ethylene glycol, so thats what I used.
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.Alright here we go, time for a can of worms that I didn’t want to open lol
Winter is coming and I currently only have water in my cooling system. I’ve gone through several threads of what coolant should be used with no close consensus. I hate to overthink coolant of all things, but topics such as cavitation, wet wall vs. dry wall, silicate levels, people not liking dexcool, and more leave me with more questions than answers.
I’m currently leaning towards the most basic 50/50 ethylene glycol green mix if I can find it. I plan on flushing the truck with a few more jugs of distilled water, and then pouring in a coolant mix till I get the desired %
I need to do a flush on my deuce as well as it’s long overdue, figure now’s the time to ask if anything. Hope I don’t start a war
Agreed! Use just the Plain Green and add your own water as required.
Got the new receiver drier and hooked it up to the system. New O-Rings and all on the fittings as well.
I couldn't find the Red Dot RD-5-11188-0P receiver drier anywhere that wasn't going to be a month+ long wait. I spoke to a few Red Dot vendors though and they told me that any drier that matches the fittings should really be fine.
I bought a very similar one labeled PH08828200 that's meant for freightliner trucks. Fits perfectly and looks almost exactly the same.
My research results regarding the oil for this system was rather vague, so I did my best to estimate how much to add into the compressor. It's Sanden SP-15 oil. With the condenser being open to drain for a while when the hose broke, along with me replacing the receiver/drier, and the system being free of refrigerant for a while, I added 3oz into the compressor. I might add a little more to be on the safe side later using an oil injector, but for now I need to see if the system even works. My very rough math was based off the refrigerant guide: http://firewall.reddotcorp.com/pdf/RD-5-12561-0 rev- Refrigerant Reference 2009.pdf
I vacuumed the system for 20 minutes, confirmed vacuum after another 30 minutes with the pump off, everything looked good.
So I proceed to hook up a refrigerant can to start charging it. The label on the evaporator says the system takes 4lbs of refrigerant. I filled about half of that for now to see if it even does anything. Gauges read 70PSI total across the system as of now.
Unfortunately, I can't test this until my 3rd starter arrives (soon). For the next few days, we'll see how it holds the pressure to begin with, and can proceed with adding more charge once the truck runs again. I'm using my friend's system as a reference, the gauges read 80PSI when hooked up to his system, but I need to circulate things around mine and see how they settle.
Side question for anyone that knows more about AC than I do - Friend's truck needs to be bled of refrigerant to re-locate several of his lines, is it theoretically possible to hook his high side into my low side and reclaim some of that refrigerant in that manner? Or are we better off having a shop with a recovery machine do it? I looked at getting a recovery machine but they're pricy.
I couldn't find the Red Dot RD-5-11188-0P receiver drier anywhere that wasn't going to be a month+ long wait. I spoke to a few Red Dot vendors though and they told me that any drier that matches the fittings should really be fine.
I bought a very similar one labeled PH08828200 that's meant for freightliner trucks. Fits perfectly and looks almost exactly the same.
My research results regarding the oil for this system was rather vague, so I did my best to estimate how much to add into the compressor. It's Sanden SP-15 oil. With the condenser being open to drain for a while when the hose broke, along with me replacing the receiver/drier, and the system being free of refrigerant for a while, I added 3oz into the compressor. I might add a little more to be on the safe side later using an oil injector, but for now I need to see if the system even works. My very rough math was based off the refrigerant guide: http://firewall.reddotcorp.com/pdf/RD-5-12561-0 rev- Refrigerant Reference 2009.pdf
I vacuumed the system for 20 minutes, confirmed vacuum after another 30 minutes with the pump off, everything looked good.
So I proceed to hook up a refrigerant can to start charging it. The label on the evaporator says the system takes 4lbs of refrigerant. I filled about half of that for now to see if it even does anything. Gauges read 70PSI total across the system as of now.
Unfortunately, I can't test this until my 3rd starter arrives (soon). For the next few days, we'll see how it holds the pressure to begin with, and can proceed with adding more charge once the truck runs again. I'm using my friend's system as a reference, the gauges read 80PSI when hooked up to his system, but I need to circulate things around mine and see how they settle.
Side question for anyone that knows more about AC than I do - Friend's truck needs to be bled of refrigerant to re-locate several of his lines, is it theoretically possible to hook his high side into my low side and reclaim some of that refrigerant in that manner? Or are we better off having a shop with a recovery machine do it? I looked at getting a recovery machine but they're pricy.
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You are fine on the drier. I suspect red dot does not make their own but use commercial off the shelf units. The extra port makes no difference.