IP problem with my new Deuce...need advice

[acesneights1]

No I reconnected it after reassembling the IP...
Good catch though..
I am not lining the t pin up bu I don't know what I am doing wrong ? Could the plunger be stuck in a position that it is either over or under the groove ?

 

[welldigger]

Try pulling the hydraulic head. Then you can see if the fuel shut off block moves freely.

 

[acesneights1]

Try pulling the hydraulic head. Then you can see if the fuel shut off block moves freely.

That may be next. I had alot of time and a sleepless night to think about it.
Spoke to a friend of mine who owns a heavy truck shop in NY. He said the old macks had the same pump and the fuel meter block maybe stuck and I am misaligned with the t pin. He thinks the same I do fhat all the oil got pulled past the turb seals. He said the seals are peetty tough and they maybe ok. When I try to start it again I will disconnect the turbo. Im gonna pull the fender so I can get my fat head in there and see if I can see the groove on the metering block that the T pin goes in. I may be pulling the HH. I think the motor may be ok. He said it can take the running loaded up on fuel.
One more question... Is the clutch in these single or double disk ?
On the old DM macks you could pull the shims out and get some more life out of the clutch.

 

[skinnyR1]

A clutch disc is $100. Even if there was a way to reuse the old one and make it last a little longer, I dont know that it would be worth the possibility of having to open it up again in the near future.

 

[Warthog]

I don't have a picture but when the fuel rod is removed you will see the plunger sleeve inside the hole. Using a small screwdriver see it it will slide up and down. You will probably need to use a mirror to see this.

When installing the fuel rod, you see when the sleeve is and make sure the tip is in the same position. If the sleeve is up then the tip needs to be up, If the sleeve is down (Going on memeory here but I seem to remember the sleeve will slide to the down position by itself) then the tip needs to be down. Because of this is why it took me several times to install it the first time I worked on one.

 

[acesneights1]

A clutch disc is $100. Even if there was a way to reuse the old one and make it last a little longer, I dont know that it would be worth the possibility of having to open it up again in the near future.

Oh yeah I will replace the clutch once I determine the engine is viable. I just want to get it to grab better so I can stall the motor for right now.

 

[acesneights1]

I don't have a picture but when the fuel rod is removed you will see the plunger sleeve inside the hole. Using a small screwdriver see it it will slide up and down. You will probably need to use a mirror to see this.

When installing the fuel rod, you see when the sleeve is and make sure the tip is in the same position. If the sleeve is up then the tip needs to be up, If the sleeve is down (Going on memeory here but I seem to remember the sleeve will slide to the down position by itself) then the tip needs to be down. Because of this is why it took me several times to install it the first time I worked on one.

View attachment 492947

I think I will pull the fender so I can see better what you are saying.
The fender needs some work anyway.

 

[acesneights1]

Now that plunger sleeve maybe what he meant when he(previous owner)
Said the sleeve is cracked but how could he make that determination without being able to look in it ?

 

[Warthog]

Well it always helps to go back to the manual.

I just skimmed thru the TM 9-2910-226-34 Injector Pump Repair manual and on page 3-86 it explains how to reinstall the fuel rod. It even has pictures.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2910-226-34.pdf

Paragraph b says the lever should move 500 angle. That should read 50 degree angle.

 

[skinnyR1]

Is there a possibility of calling the previous owner and asking him more questions? Maybe now that the truck is gone, and he has your money, he will be straight and more forthcoming with the pertinant info.

 

[acesneights1]

Well it always helps to go back to the manual.

I just skimmed thru the TM 9-2910-226-34 Injector Pump Repair manual and on page 3-86 it explains how to reinstall the fuel rod. It even has pictures.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2910-226-34.pdf

Paragraph b says the lever should move 500 angle. That should read 50 degree angle.

Thanks for the link to the proper manual. I have downloaded 10 TM's so far from the site and none have helped. Most just troubleshooting basics.

I cant view it on my phone but will read it when I get home.

 

[acesneights1]

Is there a possibility of calling the previous owner and asking him more questions? Maybe now that the truck is gone, and he has your money, he will be straight and more forthcoming with the pertinant info.

He did not return text or phone calls. He obviously knew he was sticking it to me so at this point I'm on my own.

I have been waiting for an excuse to buy a handheld camera probe. This would be a perfect use.

 

[welldigger]

He did not return text or phone calls. He obviously knew he was sticking it to me so at this point I'm on my own.

I have been waiting for an excuse to buy a handheld camera probe. This would be a perfect use.

Hopefully at the very least this thing is salvageable. If you can get it cranked without going to wot that will be a good start.

 

[acesneights1]

Well, I didn't get to work on it tonight. My VW TDI died on the way home. I can't win.. We need a suicide smiley..
Thinking about it all day though adfter the stories I hear of people running them on paint thinner, waste oil, gasoline etc I can't see how the motor got hurt . I think when I dig into it I may find it's ok assuming it was when I got it.

 

[acesneights1]

Well it always helps to go back to the manual.

I just skimmed thru the TM 9-2910-226-34 Injector Pump Repair manual and on page 3-86 it explains how to reinstall the fuel rod. It even has pictures.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2910-226-34.pdf

Paragraph b says the lever should move 500 angle. That should read 50 degree angle.

OK Warthog, first off thank you..That was exactly what I needed. I read it but now have a question. I posted pics of the side of the HH with the fuel rod out. Now they are low res because of the forum file size limit but I have the hi res original. I blew it up on my PC and I can see in the "rabbit hole" pretty good and it does NOT look like figure 3-148 on page 3-86. The TM says you need to push down on the plunger sleeve..Ok..That makes sense BUT How ? How do I push down on the plunger sleeve ??
I think I may have found my problem but how do I "push down" on the plunger sleeve ?

 

[Warthog]

The sleeve just slides up and down. It is a precision fit part. Use a small screwdriver or an ice pick, insert into the groove and gently slide it up and down. If it doesn't move easily it may be gummed up. Use some carb cleaner and give it a squirt. repeat until it moves freely.

Now if the sleeve is actually damaged you may need to remove the HH and see what the real damage is.

 

[acesneights1]

OK, It's back together but it is scaring the crap out of me. I need to talk to someone about how this pump works. If anyone can PM me. Here is what I see as the problem. I am cranking and cranking and no start. If I move the lever (cover is off) toward the cab it will try to start but that is the off position no ? I am afraid o start it because that is what happended the other day. I actually had to pull the shutoff cable out and then it started and took off. I am wondering if the guy that owned it before me took the pivot arm off the spline and put it back 180 out ?? I really need to talk to someone. I think the metering sleeve is operating backwards.

 

[Warthog]

It does sound something is screwy. He may have removed the lever and not put it back correctly. Is there any evidence the the lever has been removed? Scratches on the nut?

I would stop and the start from the beginning. Set the #1 cylinder at TDC, Check the crankshaft timing mark, remove the covers and check the timing marks. That way you know for sure what you have.

The procedures that I like are in the LDS Troubleshooting manual.

 

[welldigger]

Yes. Something very screwy is going on. Pulling the cable out should definitely kill the engine.

Where's gimpy at?

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yeah leave it alone for now. Gimpy should be able to help you.