What liftman said is true however he is talking about the hydraulic motor for running the tilt, up down, and side shift functions. That is a different motor than the one that runs the hydraulic power steering. And then there is yet one more motor the big one that is for moving the entire truck forward or backwards. To test your battery without frying your board if you are eager just unplug the logic board and then you can manually push the contators in, that are in the photograph you took and it will activate either the hydraulic pump for the main fork functions and the other one will activate the pump that runs the steering. When you let go the motors will shut off. On my trucks there are micro switchs on the levers that turn the fork function pump on and off when you push a lever so the pump is only on when you move a lever then shuts off again. Power steering as I said before stays on as long as the machine is in gear and in your case probably when you push the pedal. Let us know how it goes. And my Clarks do not have a safety switch in the seat. If you do have one though just unplug it and put a jumper on it to bypass it to rule it out as being a problem, however id be surprised if yours has one lookin at its age.
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Isaac-1
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I had a 1986 Eaton Yale electric forklift that had a safety switch under the seat so they have been around a while, I also have a Clark with one that is very annoying as it kicks off if you lean forward to see the forks
liftman
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The power steering motor runs when the key is on and the seat switch is closed. There is a timer in the circuit to keep the motor running in case you move out of the seat for any reasoon as Isaac has said. It is controlled by a small contactor that looks like an automotive solenoid that is located next to the PS motor under the floor on the left side. It has a 40A fuse for the motor protection that is located in the control panel compartment. It is a small cartridge fuse and it is with the other fuses in the fuse panel.
Leedawg is correct that you can push the contactors in to check motor operation other than the PS motor. That contactor is enclosed. The contactor in the open area on the right middle of the panel is the lift motor contactor. That can be pushed in to see of the lift motor runs.
The drive motor has to have more than one contactor pushed in to check the drive motor, but the drive wheels should be off the ground for safety reasons. I don't think you are ready for that test yet.
Leedawg is correct that you can push the contactors in to check motor operation other than the PS motor. That contactor is enclosed. The contactor in the open area on the right middle of the panel is the lift motor contactor. That can be pushed in to see of the lift motor runs.
The drive motor has to have more than one contactor pushed in to check the drive motor, but the drive wheels should be off the ground for safety reasons. I don't think you are ready for that test yet.
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I was able to perform a quick test this morning since the battery is almost fully charged now. So I disconnected the charger and lowered the seat down, connected the battery, sat down and turn the key. Sure enough, a pump (power steering?) started purring. I then tried all 3 lift controls, but alas, still just getting clicking sounds on all 3.
Next I tried the drive pedal, and low and behold, the fork was able to move both forward and backwards. Jerked the whole trailer. I forgot to try to turn the steering wheel to see it that function works, but I would suspect so given that pump seems to be running.
So main issue appears to be the lift pump not coming on. I'll try pushing in the lift motor contactor manually to see if it comes on. If not, I guess the next step would be to ohm the lift motor to see if it is open?
Also, when I removed the floor panel a few days ago, I noticed that the lift valve only had one hose going to it, I assume that is because gravity is what lowers that particular cylinder, right? The tilt and side shift valves both had 2 hoses connected to them.
What I getting at is how do I manually lift the forks off the ground with a jack (or tractor front end loader) so that I can drive this thing without the forks scraping the trailer deck? Lock the lift lever in the lowering position, and then let it go back to neutral once I have it raised a little off the ground? I would think that would be the position that would allow the hydraulic fluid to be sucked into the lift cylinder, no?
Next I tried the drive pedal, and low and behold, the fork was able to move both forward and backwards. Jerked the whole trailer. I forgot to try to turn the steering wheel to see it that function works, but I would suspect so given that pump seems to be running.
So main issue appears to be the lift pump not coming on. I'll try pushing in the lift motor contactor manually to see if it comes on. If not, I guess the next step would be to ohm the lift motor to see if it is open?
Also, when I removed the floor panel a few days ago, I noticed that the lift valve only had one hose going to it, I assume that is because gravity is what lowers that particular cylinder, right? The tilt and side shift valves both had 2 hoses connected to them.
What I getting at is how do I manually lift the forks off the ground with a jack (or tractor front end loader) so that I can drive this thing without the forks scraping the trailer deck? Lock the lift lever in the lowering position, and then let it go back to neutral once I have it raised a little off the ground? I would think that would be the position that would allow the hydraulic fluid to be sucked into the lift cylinder, no?
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You can just jack the forks up and chain them off. The cylinder won't move if you jack the forks because they are connected by chains. You'll have to chain them up.
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You may also have to chain the mast back because it will likely try to tilt out when you raise the forks because there is no pressure in the system.
liftman
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Isaac-1
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Many forklift forks are designed to be easily removed / replaced looking at the style of yours I suspect you will find a small spring loaded pull tab at the top back side of the fork to release them, you can then tilt them up and off the mounting rail, each fork is going to weigh something over 100 pounds.
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I was thinking the same thing Isaac. That is how my Clark is but yeah those forks weigh an awful lot more than they look like they would weigh. Not sure if the frame they are on would still cause him problems being to low to the ground but I would think removing the forks would be the way to go as well.
Good idea! I'll look tomorrow to see if the forks will pop off.
I was able to use a come-along to raise the forks about a foot, and then hooked in a chain to hold them in place, and then released the come-along.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-10-01.jpg
So if the forks will come off, it should be pretty easy now. If they are anything like the forks on my John Deere, they are going to be heavy!
So here' s a shot of the dove tail center dropped. My plan to to add my aluminum ramps to the bottom of the dove tail to complete the transition to ground level. I'll be strapping them to the trailer so that they can't slide off. I'll also be adding support under them as they are rated at 5,000 each, so I'll be right at their max rated capacity. The outer ramps on the trailer will also be dropped, which will then make contract with the ground to prevent from from of the trailer from lifting. I will of course also hook up the truck before unloading.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-10-02.jpg
It goes without saying I won't be attempting this until it has stopped raining and the ramp is dry...
I was able to use a come-along to raise the forks about a foot, and then hooked in a chain to hold them in place, and then released the come-along.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-10-01.jpg
So if the forks will come off, it should be pretty easy now. If they are anything like the forks on my John Deere, they are going to be heavy!
So here' s a shot of the dove tail center dropped. My plan to to add my aluminum ramps to the bottom of the dove tail to complete the transition to ground level. I'll be strapping them to the trailer so that they can't slide off. I'll also be adding support under them as they are rated at 5,000 each, so I'll be right at their max rated capacity. The outer ramps on the trailer will also be dropped, which will then make contract with the ground to prevent from from of the trailer from lifting. I will of course also hook up the truck before unloading.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-10-02.jpg
It goes without saying I won't be attempting this until it has stopped raining and the ramp is dry...
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You're going to have to move that chain to get the forks off. Do you see that notch at the bottom of the carriage directly under where you have the chain wrapped? You have to slide the forks over to that notch to lift them off. Most forklifts have stops that prevent you from just sliding the forks off the end of the carriage.
I'd still winch it off the trailer. When the forklift hits that checker plate, it's likely to start sliding (especially if it's the least bit wet).
I'd still winch it off the trailer. When the forklift hits that checker plate, it's likely to start sliding (especially if it's the least bit wet).
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I got the forklift unloaded today. Turns out my aluminum ramps are actually rated at 7000 lbs each, but I still added plenty of support under it.
I used a 5 ton come-along to hold it as I drove it down the ramp. Turns out it won't coast when you're not in the seat, so I summoned a helper to work the come-along as I applied light pressure to the forward pedal until we got it almost all the way off the ramps, and I then drove it off the rest of the way.
Here's a shot with it halfway onto the ramps:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-01.jpg
And a view from in front of the ramps:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-02.jpg
After getting it on the ground, I made the mistake of taking it for a spin, and I only got 4 feet off the concrete apron before I got stuck. You guys weren't kidding that these things suck on anything but a very firm surface. Took like 20 minutes to get it back into the shop. After giving up trying to use some 2x6s, I ended up using the tractor to first pull it forward, then push it from the back with the helper driving the fork lift.
Here it is save and sound in the shop with the forks removed:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-03.jpg
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get a chance to play with it some more and see what's up with the lift pump.
I used a 5 ton come-along to hold it as I drove it down the ramp. Turns out it won't coast when you're not in the seat, so I summoned a helper to work the come-along as I applied light pressure to the forward pedal until we got it almost all the way off the ramps, and I then drove it off the rest of the way.
Here's a shot with it halfway onto the ramps:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-01.jpg
And a view from in front of the ramps:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-02.jpg
After getting it on the ground, I made the mistake of taking it for a spin, and I only got 4 feet off the concrete apron before I got stuck. You guys weren't kidding that these things suck on anything but a very firm surface. Took like 20 minutes to get it back into the shop. After giving up trying to use some 2x6s, I ended up using the tractor to first pull it forward, then push it from the back with the helper driving the fork lift.
Here it is save and sound in the shop with the forks removed:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-03.jpg
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get a chance to play with it some more and see what's up with the lift pump.
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I ended up working on it a little tonight. 
Removed the 2 floor boards, and here's what the right side looks like below. That round grey thing in the lower right corner is the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the lift pump. Oil level was right at the full mark and the oil looked brand new with no moisture.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-04.JPG
Here's the left side. The red arrow points to the steering pump, which works greats and turns the rear wheels 90 degrees in either direction with very little effort of the steering wheel. The green arrow points to the hydraulic pump head on the lift motor.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-05.JPG
So I took the rear cover off again and took a better picture of it. The main 36 V bar is marked with the red arrow. I verified that when I move the lift lever, the contactor in the top right does engage and I then have 36 V terminal the green arrow points to. After looking at the EV-100 manual and comparing to what I have, mine does not have a SCR control for the lift motor. When the lift contactor is not engaged, I'm measuring 28.5 Ohm between the terminal at the green arrow and ground.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-06.JPG
So my conclusion at this point is that I either have a bad connection between the green arrow terminal and the corresponding terminal on the lift motor, a bad connection between the lift motor and ground, or the lift motor is shot.
To get to the lift motor, I'll need to remove the battery pack and remove the floor below it. I guess that's where I'll start tomorrow.
Oh, here's a shot of the seat. I think given how good it looks, and the small amount of wear on the pedals, this thing just might have only 740 hours on it. So I hope I just got a loose connection somewhere in the wiring to the lift motor.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-07.JPG
Removed the 2 floor boards, and here's what the right side looks like below. That round grey thing in the lower right corner is the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the lift pump. Oil level was right at the full mark and the oil looked brand new with no moisture.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-04.JPG
Here's the left side. The red arrow points to the steering pump, which works greats and turns the rear wheels 90 degrees in either direction with very little effort of the steering wheel. The green arrow points to the hydraulic pump head on the lift motor.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-05.JPG
So I took the rear cover off again and took a better picture of it. The main 36 V bar is marked with the red arrow. I verified that when I move the lift lever, the contactor in the top right does engage and I then have 36 V terminal the green arrow points to. After looking at the EV-100 manual and comparing to what I have, mine does not have a SCR control for the lift motor. When the lift contactor is not engaged, I'm measuring 28.5 Ohm between the terminal at the green arrow and ground.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-06.JPG
So my conclusion at this point is that I either have a bad connection between the green arrow terminal and the corresponding terminal on the lift motor, a bad connection between the lift motor and ground, or the lift motor is shot.
To get to the lift motor, I'll need to remove the battery pack and remove the floor below it. I guess that's where I'll start tomorrow.
Oh, here's a shot of the seat. I think given how good it looks, and the small amount of wear on the pedals, this thing just might have only 740 hours on it. So I hope I just got a loose connection somewhere in the wiring to the lift motor.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-11-07.JPG
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Got the battery out. Here are a few pics of how I did it:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-01.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-02.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-03.JPG
And here are the 2 motors (lift motor on the left):
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-04.JPG
The name plate:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-05.JPG
I removed the cables (they were firmly attached) and cleaned up the terminals (they were in pretty good shape) and well as the cable ends. I then checked the resistance between the terminals and got a solid 61 ohms as seen here:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-06.JPG
I then re-checked the ohm reading from the control panel, and I'm now getting 61 ohms there as well as opposed to the 28 ohms I was getting l last night. Strange...
May I'll try turning the battery 90 degrees so that I can connect it and see if cleaning the terminals did anything for it. This way I can also confirm if I get 36 Volt at the motor terminals with the contactor closed. Pulling the lift motor looks to be a bit of a pain as I'll likely have to remove it as a unit with the hydraulic pump head attached, which means draining the hydraulic fluid and disconnecting the high pressure side at either the valve body pack or at the pump itself.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-01.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-02.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-03.JPG
And here are the 2 motors (lift motor on the left):
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-04.JPG
The name plate:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-05.JPG
I removed the cables (they were firmly attached) and cleaned up the terminals (they were in pretty good shape) and well as the cable ends. I then checked the resistance between the terminals and got a solid 61 ohms as seen here:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-12-06.JPG
I then re-checked the ohm reading from the control panel, and I'm now getting 61 ohms there as well as opposed to the 28 ohms I was getting l last night. Strange...
May I'll try turning the battery 90 degrees so that I can connect it and see if cleaning the terminals did anything for it. This way I can also confirm if I get 36 Volt at the motor terminals with the contactor closed. Pulling the lift motor looks to be a bit of a pain as I'll likely have to remove it as a unit with the hydraulic pump head attached, which means draining the hydraulic fluid and disconnecting the high pressure side at either the valve body pack or at the pump itself.
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I got the battery turned 90 degrees and connected it to the forklift. Turned the key and activated one of the lift motor levers. Nothing. Checked with my DVM, and I'm getting a solid 36 V across the terminals directly on the motor.
So I guess now is decision time, do I pull the lift motor to see if I can fix it, or cut my losses and see if I can sell it for what I got in it as it sits?
So I guess now is decision time, do I pull the lift motor to see if I can fix it, or cut my losses and see if I can sell it for what I got in it as it sits?
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rustyshakelford
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Pull the lift motor. Already this far in. Don't throw in the towel just yet.
Brett
Brett
unclebeau
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Can you remove the brush covers to take a look see inside the brush area to get an Idea of what the damages are and then decide?
liftman
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Looks like an EE motor,with the covers and all. Remove the cover on the commutator end to see if the brushes are hung up in the holders. The brushes could be stuck from sitting around. This tends to happen with EE trucks because the dust created by the brushes can't get out easily.
Removing the motor is fairly easy. Get something to clamp the feed line to the pump, remove both the feed and pressure lines, swing the pump up on the hinge it's mounted to, remove the hinge and lift out the assembly. They are very easy to repair if there is no damage to the commutator.
Removing the motor is fairly easy. Get something to clamp the feed line to the pump, remove both the feed and pressure lines, swing the pump up on the hinge it's mounted to, remove the hinge and lift out the assembly. They are very easy to repair if there is no damage to the commutator.