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I was cleaning up my YouTube. I must have accidentally deleted it. I will try to fix it.Thanks for the support! CUCVLOVER, what happened to the video? I didn't get a chance to watch yet.
I emailed Stanadyne asking about pump DB2 4521 and they sent me two PDF files. I'm need to study them more to determine if this tells me where to put the marks when installing the pump.If you find any timing info specific to your pump model please post it for reference
Stanadyne said:Attached is the specification for your pump model 04521. On the first page I’ve highlighted the timing method and values for this pump, the #1 cylinder for the pump (simulating the face of a clock, it would be 10 o’clock viewing it from the transfer pump end), and the rotation of the pump, which is counter clockwise viewed from the driveshaft end. In order to accomplish this you would need a special Stanadyne service tool (p/n 23715) and follow the procedure listed on the bulletin 375, page 3.
About 60k now. I've put about 5k+ on it. I think those PDF docs may have to do with pump timing/specs and not engine timing. I imagine the guys that rebuilt my pump would find those docs more useful. CUCVRUS, I can be a little obsessive at times. Unfortunately for me, it's not as simple as bolt it on. I can't sleep at night not knowing why/how/where/etc. This is all new to me and I just want to be certain of what I'm doing. I only posted those docs in case someone else found them useful.How many miles are on the engine?
My truck has 58K on it. I would set the pump other right on line to line or a fuzz past the line if you think your engine has enough wear. I would mount it line to line and run it for a couple days and see how it's running. Then advance or retard from there by feel and sound. It's a old diesel. Fuel and air in the top, and a little fire in the hole and she is happy as she gets.About 60k now. I've put about 5k+ on it. I think those PDF docs may have to do with pump timing/specs and not engine timing. I imagine the guys that rebuilt my pump would find those docs more useful. CUCVRUS, I can be a little obsessive at times. Unfortunately for me, it's not as simple as bolt it on. I can't sleep at night not knowing why/how/where/etc. I only posted those docs in case someone else found them useful.
I would mount it line to line and run it for a couple days and see how it's running. Then advance or retard from there by feel and sound.
That is neat info, and shows how to apply the timing mark to the pump housing, that is something only a rebuild shop would do. I don't think that info will help you out. GM for whatever reason made some combos of pumps and engines with timing marks that shouldn't be aligned. Who knows why they did that, it was the 80's.I emailed Stanadyne asking about pump DB2 4521 and they sent me two PDF files. I'm need to study them more to determine if this tells me where to put the marks when installing the pump.
Putting it on is easier than taking it off. Just take your time and do it.Nice video!!! I'm still doing a little cleaning today, but this sounds like a good plan. Hoping to have it bolted on before the day is over.
Tighten the bolt like CUCVRUS said. The position makes no differenceI'm planning on starting the truck before bolting the intake manifold on to check for leaks easier. To do that, does the vacuum pump need to be bolted back up correctly? Right now, it's twisted/rotated out of the way to remove the intake manifold.
Which plug are you talking about?The truck is kicking my butt today. The plastic drain plug on the fuel filter housing broke. I tightened it down too tight and it snapped. Any suggestions on fixing that? I wonder if Home Depot has a fitting in the plumbing section that would work. But, the pump is on.
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