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Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area
- Thread starter Jack Lope
- Start date
CUCVLOVER
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I was cleaning up my YouTube. I must have accidentally deleted it. I will try to fix it.
I'm fond of a 5/8" 12 point crowfoot on a 6" extension for working on the lines when the pump is on the engine. If you get in a jam try to track down a quality one. I have had good luck with my Martin ones.
If you find any timing info specific to your pump model please post it for reference
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I emailed Stanadyne asking about pump DB2 4521 and they sent me two PDF files. I'm need to study them more to determine if this tells me where to put the marks when installing the pump.
Stanadyne said:
cucvrus
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I am tapping out of this job. I never had to get this involved in an injection pump installation. I just replace them. Time them line to line and done with it. Worked a hundred times. I never even looked at the tags on the side of the pump. I think you can do a job and then you can over do a job. IMHO you are looking to deep into this. But do as you wish. I see no harm in doing it both ways. Butis is a simple task. The minor details can be made into a major project and are not needed. Good Luck. That is way over my head.
CUCVLOVER
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How many miles are on the engine?
About 60k now. I've put about 5k+ on it. I think those PDF docs may have to do with pump timing/specs and not engine timing. I imagine the guys that rebuilt my pump would find those docs more useful. CUCVRUS, I can be a little obsessive at times. Unfortunately for me, it's not as simple as bolt it on. I can't sleep at night not knowing why/how/where/etc. This is all new to me and I just want to be certain of what I'm doing. I only posted those docs in case someone else found them useful.
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CUCVLOVER
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My truck has 58K on it. I would set the pump other right on line to line or a fuzz past the line if you think your engine has enough wear. I would mount it line to line and run it for a couple days and see how it's running. Then advance or retard from there by feel and sound. It's a old diesel. Fuel and air in the top, and a little fire in the hole and she is happy as she gets.
I have pulled the 40K lbs weight sled at the truck pull twice with the pump set line to line before I had it rebuilt. I set it line on line after rebuild and all is good.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NyAW-q7vsLQ
cucvrus
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This is a swiss army knife not a swiss watch. You have several options. You will be good trust me. It is not as hard as you are making or worrying about it. The newer diesels are more sensitive to timing then this old iron. Put it on crank it over bleed the lines to the nozzles and fire it up. Easy enough?
Nice video!!! I'm still doing a little cleaning today, but this sounds like a good plan. Hoping to have it bolted on before the day is over.
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That is neat info, and shows how to apply the timing mark to the pump housing, that is something only a rebuild shop would do. I don't think that info will help you out. GM for whatever reason made some combos of pumps and engines with timing marks that shouldn't be aligned. Who knows why they did that, it was the 80's.
For every milimeter you move the top of the pump you make a 2 degree timing change (really really close to 2 degrees). Try it with the lines lined up, then move it in small increments twards the drivers side if you have cold starting issues or white smoke at idle. Another thing is if you turn up the fuel on your pump it actually advances the timing a bit.
If you do think you need to advance your timing a bit you can jumper 12v over to the cold advance solenoid on the housing. That will advance it about 3 degrees for testing.
CUCVLOVER
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Putting it on is easier than taking it off. Just take your time and do it.
Post pics and maybe video when it's done
cucvrus
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Just tighten the bolt on the hold down. it could attempt to spin and beat against the firewall. Off topic a bit. I had a guy mark his vacuum pump before removal. So it was in time with the transmission shifts. He was taught that in the Army. Blew his mind when I showed him how it did not matter. Later i heard another guy saying the same thing at a garage. Same thing he was in the Army. Funny stuff.
CUCVLOVER
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Tighten the bolt like CUCVRUS said. The position makes no difference
The truck is kicking my butt today. The plastic drain plug on the fuel filter housing broke. I tightened it down too tight and it snapped. Any suggestions on fixing that? I wonder if Home Depot has a fitting in the plumbing section that would work. But, the pump is on.
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cucvrus
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Hey don't be discouraged. Bandaids are cheap. After you are all done sit back and admire your work and relax. Have a cigarette if you smoke if not enjoy the day. In all seriousness as many guys on this site that removed the stock fuel filter someone should have jumped to send you the drain screw/petcock. I sent one out to a fellow member for free. Good luck with your job. I am not sure how you ended up with the wires in the incorrect place but so be it. It sounds like you have a plan. Keep going. I have an injection pump to put on today also. I will report back later. Good Luck.
CUCVLOVER
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Which plug are you talking about?
I'm top or the bottom?