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Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area

cucvrus

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I am guessing that you loosened the stud that holds the crossover manifold down when you removed the nut from the alternator bracket. Remove the nut and bracket again and tight the stud alone then reinstall the bracket and nut.
After mulling this over in my head. I thought about the coolant manifold leak. Did you get a new J code intake gasket? If you did? Did the 4 gaskets come for the coolant port holes? If so now would be a great time to replace them. That is now that the intake is off and you can right in there and do the job. Drain the radiator and replace all 4 of the coolant passage gaskets. If you are there and have the gaskets now is the time to do them. You can basically do them now and forget about them. Just a tip. Do as you wish. My opinion is. the disturbed coolant manifold gasket that was leaking is now torn loose and is not sealing as it should. it will fail agin someday when you don't want it to. Have a great day. it is about a 45 minute to and hour job to do it now. Good luck.
 

Jack Lope

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TX
The J-code intake manifold gaskets came with injection pump gasket, but not the crossover manifold gaskets. Fortunately, the auto store had them in stock. I had a couple radiator hoses laying around so decided this was good time to flush the antifreeze, replace hoses and gaskets. Of course, I'm not much of a mechanic, so this took me most of the day. The old gaskets were about dissolved. They definitely needed replaced. I think my timing is a little too far advanced. When putting the pump on, I lined it up according to the marks, but as I tightened it down, it's just a hair to the driver side of the mark. Literally, a hair. The truck wants to start up quickly, but can't without holding the key for a bit. Also, it doesn't want to turn off. Hopefully tomorrow, I can loosen the nuts and retard the timing just a bit to see if that helps. I'm done for the day now, though. My doughnut and coffee are long gone and I'm ready for some dinner! Oh, and the radiatator has been filled with distilled water. I hope to drive around for a bit before flushing it out again and putting more antifreeze in. I only saw two coolant gaskets, though... for the crossover.
 
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cucvrus

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2 gaskets at the front and 2 at the back of the heads. The heads are interchangeable right for left. You done good. Not sure about the delay in shuting off. But drive it a bit and get some fresh fuel in it. See if that helps.
 

Jack Lope

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I backed the timing down a bit. The marks are just a hair to the left now. It seems to be starting and turning off much easier. I let it idle for a bit to get the new water circulating but I'm going to try backing it off just another hair to see how that does. I'm also considering changing the thermostat after the coolant flush... just as a preemptive repair... if it's cheap. Think a lift kit is coming my way in the next couple weeks too. I'm considering a 4" lift from ORD. I'm hoping that's enough to fit 37" tires. I don't think they make 37's for my 16" wheels, so might have to find some of the HMMV wheels/tires. I have a road trip in late April and would like to have it ready to go!
 

Jack Lope

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TX
Replaced all the coolant port-hole gaskets and while flushing the coolant, replaced the thermostat just because it was cheap and the coolant was drained. ACDelco thermostat part #14077122. I also backed the timing off a little more. It's about a 1/16th to the left of the mark and seems to be doing nicely. Just need to add the cdr valve and that'll near be it.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Replaced all the coolant port-hole gaskets and while flushing the coolant, replaced the thermostat just because it was cheap and the coolant was drained. ACDelco thermostat part #14077122. I also backed the timing off a little more. It's about a 1/16th to the left of the mark and seems to be doing nicely. Just need to add the cdr valve and that'll near be it.
Does your CDR and oil cap need to be cleaned? If it's full of crude use either a parts washer or some cans of carburetor cleaner and a screw driver to wash them out. They will work much better.
 

reaper556

Member
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Location
HOCKLEY, TX
I don't recall you saying but how does your truck run now? Is the power level the same as before does it feel a little better now and not just the placebo effect? I have thought about having M&D Diesel here in Houston do mine when the time comes and also have all my injectors redone at the same time.
 

Jack Lope

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TX
Took the truck for it's first drive. It seems to accelerate slower, but I have the pump timing low so I'm not sure if that would be the cause. The engine still struggles to turn off when compared to before. I thought that was caused by the timing too high. At the same time, it seems to accelerate smoother and the pump has a nice sound at idle. The most noticeable is how fast the truck starts.
 
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cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think it is timing. Try a few settings. I am going to take mine to a diesel shop and get the timing set dead on. Mine has a bit of surge at high speed when I let off the fuel. But at normal city and country speed I think it runs super. Glad I did the pump. It starts ad runs like it did when I bought it. The Snap=On man is stopping by tomorrow. I may amuse myself and see what a timing light cost for a diesel 6.2. If they still make one. ????
 

reaper556

Member
282
3
18
Location
HOCKLEY, TX
Took the truck for it's first drive. It seems to accelerate slower, but I have the pump timing low so I'm not sure if that would be the cause. The engine still struggles to turn off when compared to before. I thought that was caused by the timing too high. At the same time, it seems to accelerate smoother and the pump has a nice sound at idle.

Did you have to fill out a sheet or anything pertaining to the type of vehicle or engine code etc. for the pump rebuild? I ask because their is a difference of about 25hp/ 25lb ft between the C and J code engines
 

Jack Lope

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Location
TX
Did you have to fill out a sheet or anything pertaining to the type of vehicle or engine code etc. for the pump rebuild? I ask because their is a difference of about 25hp/ 25lb ft between the C and J code engines
I asked Diesel Care specifically and stated that I sent them a J code. Their response was that they rebuild the same pump they receive. My pump model is DB2 (or DB2829) 4521. According to this screenshot from another website, it shows the 4521 pump model on CUCV specifically.
 

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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I just have a pile of core pumps and send them one. i never look at them and never gavit any thought. So far about 10 + pumps in on different vehicles I have 0 issues. This is the first time I may have to get my CUCV timed. But if I use itlike I have been using it for field work. I would never have to mess with it. Runs great except the 70-75 MPH surge and dead spot in the throttle when I go back into it again.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
I just have a pile of core pumps and send them one. i never look at them and never gavit any thought. So far about 10 + pumps in on different vehicles I have 0 issues. This is the first time I may have to get my CUCV timed. But if I use itlike I have been using it for field work. I would never have to mess with it. Runs great except the 70-75 MPH surge and dead spot in the throttle when I go back into it again.
What does your fuel pressure gauge say?


Just kidding buddy.
I think mine will surge once or twice after long duration of hi speed running. Never any issues.
 

llong66

New member
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Location
kokomo, In
You can go on line and look up Diesel Care in Memphis TN. They will ship you a UPS ticket and you box up your pump and send it to them for rebuilding. You get the same pump delivered back to your door with a 1 year warranty. I have installed many of these. The total cost is $275. from your door and back to your door.
I was jut checking out Diesel cares page and they are up to $295 exchange/rebuilt for a 6.2l pump and $495 for a 6.5l turbo pump!
That was at Diesel Care and Performance,Millington, TN
Guess everything is going up.
This is the website, Im sure its the same place:
http://store.dieselcare.net/chpu.html



 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,431
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I buy my pumps from the Diesel Care E bay offer on line. The Diesel Care does a good job so I just keep going back. Why not. I never documented any numbers from the pump. That is just a tag from new. That outer casing is the same no matter what the tag says. After it is rebuilt and changed the tag is basically useless as far as what the pump fits and came off of. It the plane fly's. Fly it. If you can't get it to fly send the pump back and haggle with them. You said the pump is working so drive it. I don't get so technical about things. I hardly ever consult manuals and still have great results. These trucks are to simple to get to technical about. I may sound a bit cocky but I am just saying. It may need a tweak or 2 to perform flawlessly. But the timing is an easy fix. The no start not so useful. I am living with my slight ever so slight surge issue. Enjoy your truck and get out there and drive it. Have a great day.DSCF6406.jpgDSCF6431.jpgDSCF6432.jpgAll Stock and ready to ROCK anytime, anywhere. No hill to steep to try no trail to rough and no mud that I can't be pulled out of. I have been dragged by a 5 ton. Been there done that. I know the true meaning of being drug.
 
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