85CUCVtom
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Can you get a little pick or pocket screwdriver under the edge and start to work them loose?
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Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area
- Thread starter Jack Lope
- Start date
They're on pretty tight, but I guess this is what I'll have to do, just keep working at it. I don't know how solid they are and don't want to be too rough and bend them out of shape any. I think the screwdriver I was using was too big. I need try a thinner one.
cucvrus
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Carefully cut under the edges with a utility knife. Work it in and out a couple times. They will come loose. Sort of a shame to disturb them if they are that tight and not leaking. But do as you wish. I would do it also. Good Luck. Be careful and wear gloves so you don't cut yourself. I have kevlar gloves that I wear when doing metal work on tin and sheet metal.
I'll admit, I've considered putting the bolts right back in!
CUCVLOVER
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Just tape off the engine and paint them in the truck if you have too.
This is what I ended up doing today. It's not as good as if I could have removed them, sanded and painted properly, but it is already a nice looking improvement. Since I already took the bolts out of the valve covers, I'm hoping I didn't open a can of worms. I need to go look up the bolt pattern and torque specs for the valve covers and hope that they stay as sealed as they had been. I'm hoping so since I haven't been able to budge them even with the bolts out.
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Cucvnut
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I was going to do a 6.5 ip swap and I ended up pulling the motor, to re seal it.
cucvrus
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Just put a little sealer on the flange bolt/studs and install them. No sequence that I know of. Just use a 1/4" ratchet and go at it. I don't torque rocker covers. Really. If I were building a space shuttle I would think about it. But these old engines. Rocker covers tight/done.
I received an injection pump today. It's not the one I sent out, though. I thought they were rebuilding the one I sent, but it seems it's just an exchange. What do the codes mean on the tag? I thought the "J" on my old pump meant J code for the CUCV's. The new pump has "SH". Is this a civilian model pump?
cucvrus
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Sometimes during the rebuilding process the pump housings are not rebuild able. I never wrote any numbers down on the pumps I sent. I just sent a core pump and received a rebuilt pump back. The pump will be fine. It will work. I do not think there is anything special from a C code pump to a J code pump. I never came across any issues using either. Do you have new intake gaskets for the J code engine? Are you ready to install the new pump?
cucvrus
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The J code is the engine assembly. I was not aware that the injection pump was anything different. As a matter of fact I thought the military injection pumps were turned down and had less power then the civilian pumps. That was my understanding. Going forward lets just get the injection pump on and I am sure you will be pleased with the results. Every injection pump I ever installed and others I know installed were smiling after the first test drive. Injection pumps die at such a slow rate you don't notice how they poorly run. When you get it started with the new injection pump timed and all set up you will be pleased. I am very sure of that. How sure 99.99/100% sure. Let me know if you need any help. Others can help also. CUCVLOVER just put one on his and was happy with the performance after words. Good Luck. You are over 1/2 way.
CUCVLOVER
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Just set your timing marks and call it good. I did not look to see if my pump even had numbers. I don't know if I got the same casing back and I don't care 1 tiny bit. My truck runs awesome and has plenty of power. Leave the hood shut and run the donkey water out of it.
I set my pump back to how it was timed which was the marks perfectly lined up.
Good luck with the install.
I set my pump back to how it was timed which was the marks perfectly lined up.
Good luck with the install.
Glad to hear you are going to put the pump back on. Hopefully you marked or measured your timing marks before you pulled your pump. Correct timing is usually not having the marks alligned. The pump mark should be offset to the drivers side. If you download "The 6.2 Liter diesel engine" GM training manual 16015.05-1C there is a nice illustration (4-166) on page 4-99 that shows that the correct adjustment range is an offset of 2.5-4mm tward the drivers side (exact offset depends on your pump model).
Keep that in mind if you did not mark, measure or take a photo of it before you pulled it. If your timing is too retarded it will be difficult to start when cold. Turning the pump to the drivers side advances the timing, passenger side retards it. You don't want to advance it too far. My engine seems to like the 2-3mm range.
Keep that in mind if you did not mark, measure or take a photo of it before you pulled it. If your timing is too retarded it will be difficult to start when cold. Turning the pump to the drivers side advances the timing, passenger side retards it. You don't want to advance it too far. My engine seems to like the 2-3mm range.
cucvrus
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You will be fine. I never done anything but line to line for 20 years. I always have running trucks. I have 8 CUCV's at my place all line on line and 5 at work all line on line. I must be doing something right. If I was wanting to get technical I could take them and get the timing checked. But I watched them do that they ended up line on line. IMHO you are good to go. I have seen a few that were line thickness over the line towards the drivers side. When I put the new pump on they were fine line on line. Lets not put an unneeded scare into this man. I see it as being fine. CUCVLOVER how does your run? And where do you have yours timed? Share it as a positive reinforcement and encouragement. Please. Jack Lope the force is with you. Just go put it on and all will be well.
CUCVLOVER
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Mine is set line to line and runs like a champ.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ax-Yi4Gv7ys
This is a video I made the other day.
cucvrus
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Use a 16mm line wrench and make sure they are tight. And make sure they are in the correct order. Turn the pump so it lines up with the gear and bolt holes the first time. I will monitor my emails if you have any questions.