M925a2 Power Surge

[74M35A2]

8 rib A/C clutch pulley is in and on. They included the entire thing, I only needed the pulley. Alignment is now good for alternator and A/C compressor.

Rear main reseal one night this weekend. If it goes really well, I should soon have a shot of the trans hanging off the back of the engine. Fingers crossed.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Just curious what the 8 rib clutch conversion set you back. I like these compressors, they are serious, and the only way to go to AC a dual cab. (I know there are other ways, just a saying).

Once I get my MRAP evap unit, I'm like 2.5% of the way to having my dual cab conversion done! Then all I need is another cab, and a few hundred man-hours to glue the two together! So, I'm like, pretty much done with it if you round it up.

 

[74M35A2]

No prob. $108 was the lowest price I could find. I traded an A/C compresssor bracket kit for the compressor. If anybody else wants this compressor, I can ask the member here if OK to list his contact . It was new in box and he has several of them. It is 4 bolt pad mount though, but you can still modify my bracket kit to use it, easily. This MRAP compressor is Valeo branded made in Japan, 40,000BTU rated, and comes with a 10 rib pulley. If using my bracket kit, you can use the 10 rib pulley it comes with because you can set the alignment. Here is the 8 rib pulley link, can get it in dual V belt or different diameters also.

http://www.autoaironline.com/ac-parts/new-24-volt-clutch-with-8-groove-pulley-588

 

[Buffalobwana]

If anybody else wants this compressor, I can ask the member here if OK to list his contact . It was new in box and he has several of them.
http://www.autoaironline.com/ac-parts/new-24-volt-clutch-with-8-groove-pulley-588

I'm sure the fine gentleman with the awesome NIB compressors wouldn't mind you sharing his contact info, he's a great guy and I hear his wife is hot and smart as Einstein too.

I have 4 left, I am putting one on my tan truck this week. Not changing out the 10 rib for an 8 rib clutch, I was just curious in case someone asked me what it would cost. I'll mark the bracket where the holes should be drilled. I may take it down to my metal guy and let him cut some pretty ovals for me so I can use inner, outer or middle 8 ribs. Or is that, almost literally, splitting hairs?

Maybe I can get the bracket guy to make me 4 brackets with holes in the proper place? I dunno. I haven't asked him yet.

I'll post a classifieds for them so I'm not hijacking this thread. $180 seems pretty fair, and a lot less than anyone on fleaBay. But you can pm me for pics.

 

[74M35A2]

Any 8 of the 10!pulley ribs OK. Best if members drill their own alignment holes per their setup. I can reduce the bracket price significantly though since I would not have to acquire the purchased part in these cases with a pad mount compressor. 8.3's can add an A/C compressor relatively low cost this way.

 

[74M35A2]

Drank too much wine at the cider mill this weekend, didn't get anything done. Lunch today I went and got the fittings I need for the turbo lines. AN flare type hose ends for stainless braided teflon lined hose. All the fittings for the turbo and oil supply are straight thread O ring seal, the coolant fittings for the block are 3/4" pipe. Having a fitting TIG welded onto my turbo oil drain tube flange so this will be flexible vs rigid.

 

[Another Ahab]

That stainless sure looks good,74M35A2!

 

[74M35A2]

There is no stainless yet. The fittings are just zinc plated steel.

O rings on fittings upgraded to Viton, which is +400F, same as original, but renewed. Factory black O rings on fitting were only good for 250F, which covers coolant, but not oil if engine under serious load continuously.

 

[74M35A2]

4 valve 8.3L (ISC) head if you have never seen one:

 

[74M35A2]

Laying out turbo lines. Test fit Jake valve cover in order to get turbo hoses good length. A few shots of doing so, including the replacement valve cover spacer I will need to install in order to pass the signal wires through to the 2 Jake actuators. Here you can see a 4 valve head is still using only 2 rockers and pushrods, with a "bridge" or crosshead that pushes both valves simultaneously. Common rail electronically fired injector is centrally located in the combustion chamber, center of all 4 valves. Pleasant to see engine had frequent oil changes, very clean up top. Jake actuators not installed yet.

ECM has been confirmed to 400hp/1200ft-lb calibration. Do I leave her as a red-head? Cast your votes. It is the color most expect to see a Cummins be. TBD. Box on top-rear of valve cover is filtered crankcase vent, drains oil back to crankcase then air to atmosphere. ISL as equipped had a simpler version of this as a small square, I can reuse, not sure which I want yet. May need to shield turbo hot side somewhat if I keep this setup, as the housing is plastic.

24v engine mounted lift pump arrived, as well as the 0.090" feeler gauge to install and set gap for the Jake actuators. Guy from the hose shop is stopping by after work today, need some creativity to route the oil supply line to turbo, fittings are nearly too close to each other, so line may go out and back, or have a U, or... I don't believe I have the turbo in any stock configuration, so just make my own lines.

 

[WillWagner]

There were actually quite a few engines dressed like that, Titanium Black engine and Apex red valve cover, installed in motorhomes from the factory. When they were installed so you could see the engine, they looked cool if maintained.

 

[74M35A2]

"Its got a cop motor, cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks.....". I'll fix the cigarette lighter.

 

[74M35A2]

 

[74M35A2]

Learning how much I don't know about coolant flow. Heater core, vs turbo cooling loop flow direction, vs air compressor coolant loop, vs how is my 8.3 resevoir tank going to fill the ISL with all the trans cooler silly stuff removed from the inlet side, etc... have it mostly sorted. Big thanks to Will for putting up with my 2nd grade questions.

 

[Csm Davis]

I vote red head!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Buffalobwana]

"Its got a cop motor, cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks.....". I'll fix the cigarette lighter.

Personally, I like the "penguin" scene.

 

[simp5782]

I vote to get some work done ON the truck not in the shop. I am gonna laugh when you have to strip most of the crap off to install it all.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[74M35A2]

Understood, and you're right, I am taking most of it off to install, though not needed to. But by fitting everything up ahead of time, it will minimize the down time during the actual engine change. I will still have down time for fitting up intake air, radiator hoses, etc.... that I can't do ahead of time.

I'm going to laugh when 400 SAE certified hp is dragging your 16 speed sprinkler down the street, sideways, and zero black exhaust smoke while doing so.

 

[74M35A2]

Turbo hoses coming together. Coolant hoses to turbo are fire sleeved since close to exhaust manifold. Small air line on top actuates the variable vane assembly inside the turbine housing. Loren @ PRT does great work, and delivers for free. Thanks Loren! Corrugated flex stainless turbo oil drain hose ordered, will connect to silicone tube into block drain, similar to as pictured.



RV ISL engine had double oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. One set for the ECM, and one for the dash gauges. I am doing the same, so all truck dash gauges will look and operate same as they did with the 8.3L.

 

[74M35A2]

Ummm...


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