MEP-803A genset no crank

[Light in the Dark]

Yup, sounds like your pump is dead. Especially if it's a Facet cube style pump.... those are notoriously bad!

This. If you have voltage, but no noise... Toss it. Do you have the cube Facet, or the cylindrical Airtex style? The latter is the updated design, with slightly different hose routing (and accessories).

 

[jaybird67k]

Yup, sounds like your pump is dead. Especially if it's a Facet cube style pump.... those are notoriously bad!

If I put my mulimeter plugs directly in the plug I get nothing but if I ground my black multimeter wire and put my red probe in I get 24 volts on one side of the plug.
Is this the right way to check?
Or should I get 24 with both probes in the plug?
Thanks

 

[Ray70]

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.

 

[kloppk]

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.

E2 negative comes from TB4-10

 

[jaybird67k]

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.

Thanks

 

[jaybird67k]

E2 negative comes from TB4-10
View attachment 930073

Should I have 24 across TB-4-10 & TB-4 -12 ?

 

[kloppk]

Should I have 24 across TB-4-10 & TB-4 -12 ?

Yes

 

[jaybird67k]

Yes

Ok Thanks. I know I had 24 at T-12 but not T-10 with my positive lead on the terminals and my negative lead on a ground.

 

[Guyfang]

Here is a bit of info to help you out. Look at the wire number. And number that has a 100 on it is a ground wire. So you should never have voltage on it.

 

[jaybird67k]

E2 negative comes from TB4-10
View attachment 930073

100 AS wire was broken. Fixed. Have the main fuel pump running now.
The aux pump is not running yet and I'm suspecting it's because of the float level switch.
Any help for Aux would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Ray70]

If you have the rear cover removed you can disconnect the 4 wire plug and jump the float switch to check it. ( note, the pump doesn't run when the tank is near full ) If you jump the float and still don't have power at the aux pump, the float control module mounted to the right of the fuel tank my have an issue.

 

[jaybird67k]

Ok update. I had plans to pull the tank to clean it out because it has black tar like sludge in the tank even though the unit has only 45 hours on it but it's been sitting for over a year in a field.
My problem now is I can't get the aux float assembly out because it makes a hard 90 as soon as it enters the tank. Watched a video on a 802 float removal but it has a straight section where mine does not once it enters the tank. I took the nut off the top and there is a white plastic ferrule but I cannot get the assembly out.
Would y'all replace the main fuel level sending unit and the aux float assembly while I have the tank out?
Also what part #'s am I looking for and where to buy?
I had read a post on here about getting the tank out taking 6 hours and I was able to do it in 1 hour. Should I post how I did it in a seperate thread to tank removal?

Oh yeah, the aux pump is working now.

Thanks, for all y'all's help.

 

[Guyfang]

If it went in, it will come out.
If it aint broke, dont fix it. If you have a chance to get a part to keep on hand, Yes sir! Would do it.

Have you down loaded the TM from the TM Forum?

 

[jaybird67k]

If it went in, it will come out.
If it aint broke, dont fix it. If you have a chance to get a part to keep on hand, Yes sir! Would do it.

Have you down loaded the TM from the TM Forum?

Yes I have all the TM's.
I have been doing mechanic work for close to 50 years and I cannot figure out how this thing comes out. It revolves around me getting that white plastic ferrule up so I can slide the flange up.

 

[Guyfang]

Now, its been 14+ years since I took one out. But try pushing the aluminum part into the white ferule, while pulling the black plastic lower part up. That should give you the room to take it out.

 

[jaybird67k]

Now, its been 14+ years since I took one out. But try pushing the aluminum part into the white ferule, while pulling the black plastic lower part up. That should give you the room to take it out.

It looks like the tubes are supposed to seperate in the TM's at the tank.

 

[kloppk]

The tubes do not come apart despite what the TM seems to show.
It's just the TM's way to illustrate the float tube passes through the round gasket.

 

[Guyfang]

But you can slide the tube down in the tank, through the black base. Its passable to adjust the depth of the float assembly that way. Trust me. I went through the same thing one time. I was troubleshooting a problem. The set had a half tank of fuel, but would not turn over because of the FL1 funtion not allowing you to start the set when it is showing low fuel. When I pulled the cover off the tank area, the float assembly was pulled so far up, that the FL1 read empty with a half full tank.

 

[jaybird67k]

The tubes do not come apart despite what the TM seems to show.
It's just the TM's way to illustrate the float tube passes through the round gasket.

I have pried with two pair of plyers pushed and tugged and oiled down and cannot find a possible way but I will keep trying. I just want a new aux float and main sending unit in it before going back together with it.
Where is the best place to get the 2 parts?
Thanks for all y'all's help.

 

[jaybird67k]

I have pried with two pair of plyers pushed and tugged and oiled down and cannot find a possible way but I will keep trying. I just want a new aux float and main sending unit in it before going back together with it.
Where is the best place to get the 2 parts?
Thanks for all y'all's help.

Fuel pump filters as well.