MEP-803A No power at the panel

[Guyfang]

Could you please give me more information on the locater which is in the plug? My plug is kind of jacked up and probably will require me replacing the entire plug if I don't bypass it and solder connect all the wires bypassing it. Thanks

What is a "Locater"

You need to look at the doors on the gen set. Schematics are there.

TM's are here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-needed-for-the-mep-803a.213028/

The -24 has the schematics.

The -24P has the answers to your below asked questions. You may have to do a little research also.

I'm looking for the part numbers for P7 and J7. I willborder new plugs and pins and go from there but I'm not seeing them. Dies anyone have the part numbers to the plugs or know a place that probably sells them?

 

[chilbun28]

J7 is Tyco Part Number 206036-1
Available here for $5.70 ----> J7

P7 is Tyco Part Number 206037-1
Available here for $7.67 ---> P7

It's the same place that has the pins that I posted in an earlier post. Shipping for all the parts should be $4.99 USPS First Class

I buy tons of parts from them each year.

I bought the new pins and plugs. When they come in I will be able to save nearly all the old pins and only need to replace several of the old jacked up ones. How do I go about removing the old puns from the old plugs? And do they just push in and clip in place in the new plugs? And the several pins I need to remove and replace, do I just cut them out, strip the wire back and crimp the wire in the new pins? And are there any special tool I need to get for this job for the pins? Thanks

 

[kloppk]

You need a special tool to get the pins out.
This ---> Tool
The pins just snap into the respective housings.
Instead of crimping just solder the pins onto the wires.
The actual crimpers are hundreds of dollars.

 

[chilbun28]

You need a special tool to get the pins out.
This ---> Tool
The pins just snap into the respective housings.
Instead of crimping just solder the pins onto the wires.
The actual crimpers are hundreds of dollars.

Got it, thanks. And this tool works for the male and female pins? You just put the tool directly on the pin and push in towards the back of the plug I assume?

 

[kloppk]

Yes, that tool does both pins.
Insert it in the face of the connector. The tool is essentially a very thin walled tube. The tube depresses the locking fingers on the contacts to unlock them to allow the contact to then be extracted out of the back of the connector.

 

[chilbun28]

Yes, that tool does both pins.
Insert it in the face of the connector. The tool is essentially a very thin walled tube. The tube depresses the locking fingers on the contacts to unlock them to allow the contact to then be extracted out of the back of the connector.

Thanks, I should be good to go!

 

[chilbun28]

A little update for all the supporters and folks that might run into the same issue. I bought new cannon plugs for the male and female sides along with new pins as suggested. The pin push out tool is a must and mostly worked well except for one of the pins which was corroded pretty bad which got cut out anyway. I replaced 4 pins with new ones and moved them all from the old plugs to the new ones. They connected together well and locked in with the plug retainer ring once finished. Power came online once I connected the batteries and hit the switch. Huge win! I was strongly considering cutting out the cannon plugs and wiring in whips with butt connectors but chose to follow the guidance of the members who offered their expertise regarding fixing the plug and I'm glad that I did. Can't thank everyone enough for your help. My confidence with inspecting and repairing cannon plugs is much better after fooling around with this one. Thanks! -Chuck

 

[Light in the Dark]

Great to hear, and thanks for following up.

 

[Guyfang]

Closing the loop is important. Someone down the road will read and heed after going through this thread. That's what its all about.