MEP-803A Will no longer start seems to be fuel issue not sure how.

[CallMeColt]

Good work!

 

[2Pbfeet]

Glad to see that you have the injection pump apparently free, and the safe rescue and liberation of the allen wrench, though I have to say "Ouch!". That looked like a painful lesson for dropping an allen wrench.

Thanks for sharing.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Ray70]

With 6400 hours on it, it looks good, I can still see cross hatch marks in the cylinder wall.
Out of curiosity, I personally would pull off a couple rod caps and see what the bearing in the top half of the rod looked like as far as wear.
I'd also remove the oil pump pressure relief tube and clean it, probably remove the oil pump pickup and make sure the screen is clean in that too.
Since you're 75% of the way there.... might as well check it now.

 

[deherenman]

I was looking in the dash 24TM for the torque specs to put the crankcase cover back on. I do not see them. I see a tightening sequence.

For putting the gear into cover back on, I do see a torque spec of 78 square pounds foot. Probably butchering that.

Well putting the gear into cover back on. I did find a little ring. Almost like a metal seal/ washer. Looks like it fits in the gear and plate but before I put it where I think it goes I took a picture of it and seeing if anybody has seen this before. I only noticed this after I was putting the bolts in.

 

[Ray70]

That circular spring is part of the front crank seal. It goes around the lip of the seal to keep a little pressure against the crank snout. Not sure if you replaced the crank seal or not. If so, hopefully if came out of the old seal. If not, take it apart and replace
78 ft/lbs is probably the torque for the crank bolt, it's WAY too high for the little 10mm head cover bolts.
Those only need to be wrist tight with a 1/4" drive..... or good and snug with a 10mm wrench.

 

[CallMeColt]

I was looking in the dash 24TM for the torque specs to put the crankcase cover back on. I do not see them. I see a tightening sequence.

For putting the gear into cover back on, I do see a torque spec of 78 square pounds foot. Probably butchering that.

Well putting the gear into cover back on. I did find a little ring. Almost like a metal seal/ washer. Looks like it fits in the gear and plate but before I put it where I think it goes I took a picture of it and seeing if anybody has seen this before. I only noticed this after I was putting the bolts in.

Looks like part of the crank seal to me? Did you put a new one on?

I'm sure you mean inch lbs, not foot lbs. Just use that same spec on the other cover and use common sense going crisis cross.

 

[deherenman]

I didn't put on a new seal since this one looked good. I will put the ring back in.

Crank cover has a vary slow leak. So need to look at that.. Oil still shows full after 4 days but see a small amount in the bottom of the unit.

Thanks I will keep posted.

 

[Ray70]

Without that spring around the crank seal it will definitely leak. That is most likely where your oil leak is coming from.
If you're taking it apart anyway, why not replace the seal rather than put the spring back on an old seal?
Throw in a new seal and a new cover gasket and be done with it!

 

[deherenman]

I should have ordered a new seal for the crank. I ordered one for the crankcase cover and I have that on and that's where my leak is coming from. Not from the rear end seal.

I haven't started the engine yet because I haven't got it put all back together. I just put the engine oil in to the crankcase and I noticed a small drip/puddle underneath not coming out of the front of the engine. Coming from the crankcase cover on the side. So I'm not sure if those seals need to heat up first.

 

[Ray70]

Oh, I see... the small details make a big difference in diagnosing. It sounded to me like you put it all together, then found the spring from the front crank seal and also noticed a leak.... assumingly coming from the front cover based on your explanation.
So your current problem is the side cover seems to have a leak and you did put a new gasket on that.
I'd pull the side cover off and see if you have any bits of the original gasket stuck on the block or side cover near the bottom. when you put it back together I'd use some gasket shellac or a thin layer of gasket maker on the gasket, as a 2nd layer of protection.

 

[Guyfang]

Some of the worlds best gasket material is the Good Old TM cover. Pull the back cover off, tap the seal out and put it back together.

 

[deherenman]

So I took off the crankcase cover inspected it didn't see any remaining gasket material on the block or the gasket cover put the gasket back on tightened it up a little bit more than I did before and I will check it tonight but so far from 5:00 a.m. until now I haven't really seen any drips so I figure if it can make it until 8 hours it's not going to drip. We'll see what it does after it gets heated up.

 

[Ray70]

Well.... don't count your blessings just yet, just sitting there you only have a static little oil with no pressure.
Once it's running you have pressurized oil running into the filter as well as through several passages that connect the block to the cover including the remote oil pressure sensor line. So remember to run it and recheck once the rest of the work is finished.

 

[deherenman]

@Light in the Dark I am looking for the rubber coupler that goes between the fuel tank and the metal fill port. Part number 88-20208. Kurt suggested that you might know be able to find one. As you are one of the men who can get things apparently

 

[Light in the Dark]

@Light in the Dark I am looking for the rubber coupler that goes between the fuel tank and the metal fill port. Part number 88-20208. Kurt suggested that you might know be able to find one. As you are one of the men who can get things apparently

I don't have any, or know of where to get any at the moment... but I have turned over a few rocks. I will let you know if anything scurries out.

 

[Ray70]

Let me look at home tonight, I have the entire radiator and end panel and I removed the tank at one point, so I would have taken the sleeve off when I removed the tank, perhaps it's still attached to the metal fill port.

 

[deherenman]

Terrific let me know what you find thank you.

 

[Guyfang]

You might also start a "Parts Wanted" thread, as its what is the accepted way of doing this kind of thing.

 

[kloppk]

Check out his thread...
Filler coupler

 

[CallMeColt]

Also check out this post of mine. Almost forgot about it;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-fix-up-thread-3-0.212213/page-2#post-2510220