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need hemtt Detroit Diesel 8v92ta mechanic near Sacramento
- Thread starter bigmike
- Start date
Update 4/4/2020
I’ve had many a sleepless night about how to get the upper main bearings out. Today I fabricated a pusher tool out of a brass hose fitting. I went back and forth between the belt sander and the motor using a mirror to see my progress. I had to use a lite touch when testing the tool to push out the upper main just in case it got hung up between the crank and engine block. I am proud to say I successfully drove out my first upper bearing. Now I’m ready to begin the process of changing out the mains. Cross my fingers it will last thru all the bearing replacements without shearing.
I’ve had many a sleepless night about how to get the upper main bearings out. Today I fabricated a pusher tool out of a brass hose fitting. I went back and forth between the belt sander and the motor using a mirror to see my progress. I had to use a lite touch when testing the tool to push out the upper main just in case it got hung up between the crank and engine block. I am proud to say I successfully drove out my first upper bearing. Now I’m ready to begin the process of changing out the mains. Cross my fingers it will last thru all the bearing replacements without shearing.
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- 6,555
- 13,939
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Good job Mike. When this is done and running, I'm going to buy you a bottle of Coppola Wine, your choice. 
- 6,555
- 13,939
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Mike, we have a True Value Hardware Store the next town over in Yerington. That's where I usually get my Grade 8, Stainless, Studs etc etc. Usually at Fastenal, if they don't have it in stock they'll order it. I've ordered some pretty odd bolts in the past that they didn't have in stock, and in 2 or 3 days there they are. I think they have a major warehouse in the Sacramento area. Good Luck with this.
- 2,661
- 2,192
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Probably have to have someone turn some bigger bolts down for you. I may have some 3/4” bolts with 1-1/2” or more of shoulder I could send you if it comes down to that.
If it comes to that, I’ll make spacers to offset the head thickness .
Update 4/6/2020:
My brass pusher worked great and 4 of 5 mains are changed. Could not get rear #5 by myself. Couldn’t reach the bearing with one arm and turn the crank with the other. I’ll solicit the help of soldier B “ the wife“ next weekend. I also made PVC spacers so no need to keep searching for the unicorn 11/16-11 bolts. I also assembled my spin-on oil adapter To replace the canister. Ordered a pair of piston ring pliers via amazon.
My brass pusher worked great and 4 of 5 mains are changed. Could not get rear #5 by myself. Couldn’t reach the bearing with one arm and turn the crank with the other. I’ll solicit the help of soldier B “ the wife“ next weekend. I also made PVC spacers so no need to keep searching for the unicorn 11/16-11 bolts. I also assembled my spin-on oil adapter To replace the canister. Ordered a pair of piston ring pliers via amazon.
Attachments
- 6,555
- 13,939
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Well good. Now that Lori is getting involved things will come together. 
You got that right. No more slackin’ with the “boss” watchin’.Well good. Now that Lori is getting involved things will come together.
MrMikey4026
Well-known member
- 281
- 417
- 63
- Location
- Eatonville Washington
A piece of copper tubing hammered flat works great. You can curve it to fit around the journal. leave some of the tubing round to use for a handle.
Old timer trick shown to me many years ago.
Old timer trick shown to me many years ago.
Update 4/12/2020:
got the mains changed out. torquing to 240 ft/lbs was no easy task. One nice sized pieces of pipe to the rescue.
assembled the new pistons. needed to find a creative way to hold the connecting rod and be able to torque to the proper spec.
started reassembling the heads.
got the mains changed out. torquing to 240 ft/lbs was no easy task. One nice sized pieces of pipe to the rescue.
assembled the new pistons. needed to find a creative way to hold the connecting rod and be able to torque to the proper spec.
started reassembling the heads.
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Valor
Active member
- 196
- 215
- 43
- Location
- Apple Valley, Ca.
Good work. 240 ft.lbs. is a lot of twist! Do you have the special tool for the wrist pin seals, caps?
Not sure what you are talking about in regards to the special tool? I don‘t see it mentioned in the TM.
- 8,539
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- 113
- Location
- Monrovia, Ca.
Mike....call me!!
Valor
Active member
- 196
- 215
- 43
- Location
- Apple Valley, Ca.
The service tool part number is a Kent-Moore tool part number. A mechanic told me to just use a golf ball but I havn't done that yet. It should work. Just make sure there is no leak at the wrist pin retainer or you will get lube oil leaking. How about the sleeve to install the pistons in the liners? Do you have that one? Maybe can just have a shop do it for you. Keep up the good work. I can't wait to hear the 8V92T sing!
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I used a socket just big enough to seat the wrist pin retainers. The TM did not specify a special tool to install or to use for leak tesing. They all went in good with the detent facing in. One was a bit problematic and it got buggered up just a bit At the edge. I ended up with an extra retainer so I may pull Out the buggered up one and replace. Will Wagner lent me a ring compressor for installing the pistons in the Liners. I’ll post a pic of the buggered one this weekend.
8madjack
Active member
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- 28
- Location
- Gold country Ca.
Is that for installing the wrist pin? I made a tool for my harley engines wrist pins.
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8madjack
Active member
- 416
- 78
- 28
- Location
- Gold country Ca.
Wrong pic, sorry