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New to me M35A3, suggestions needed

cattlerepairman

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Yes. But....she was not run that way. There was oil coating on all interior engine parts. I'm still not convinced that the water in itself is a problem.
Next step I suppose is pulling injectors, getting some thin oil into the holes and barring the engine over to see whether you get a 360 degree turn without binding. If you do...yeee haw!

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Falconair07

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Yes. But....she was not run that way. There was oil coating on all interior engine parts. I'm still not convinced that the water in itself is a problem.
Next step I suppose is pulling injectors, getting some thin oil into the holes and barring the engine over to see whether you get a 360 degree turn without binding. If you do...yeee haw!

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Takes a special tool for injectors right? And even dumber question, what’s the best way to turn the engine? The 3116 manual has a warning that says don't attempt to turn using front of crankshaft it's only 8 small bolts instead of 1 big one.


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davidb56

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Takes a special tool for injectors right? And even dumber question, what’s the best way to turn the engine? The 3116 manual has a warning that says don't attempt to turn using front of crankshaft it's only 8 small bolts instead of 1 big one.


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a big strap wrench around the balancer, or weld up a crows foot to grab the outside and inside of the balancer. A pipe wrench used sideways as a crows foot would do it too if you have the clearance, and dont mind a few "teeth marks" on it.
 

glcaines

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I'd use a strap wrench which won't damage the balancer. However, if it was me, I'd pull the injectors and use a bore scope camera to inspect the cylinders prior to trying to turn. Make sure you use one that has a small camera head on it that will fit through the injector hole. If everything looks fairly decent in the cylinders, I would still spray some oil in there and let it sit awhile before trying to turn it.
 

Falconair07

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I'd use a strap wrench which won't damage the balancer. However, if it was me, I'd pull the injectors and use a bore scope camera to inspect the cylinders prior to trying to turn. Make sure you use one that has a small camera head on it that will fit through the injector hole. If everything looks fairly decent in the cylinders, I would still spray some oil in there and let it sit awhile before trying to turn it.
Let’s say I scope it and it looks all messed up…then what?


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Falconair07

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Been reading and watching a lot of info. But not clear what oil I should use. Aside from the CAT oil, what should I put in the 3116 engine? Fair temp range for all year would be 0°-110°F outside air temps in SW Iowa.


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HDN

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Been reading and watching a lot of info. But not clear what oil I should use. Aside from the CAT oil, what should I put in the 3116 engine? Fair temp range for all year would be 0°-110°F outside air temps in SW Iowa.
According to the LO the 15W-40 is good to -4 F to +122 F. You should be fine with running that in your motor. I'm going to put Shell Rotella T in my motor for its upcoming oil change.
 

glcaines

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Since it’s a flood victim, and I’m going to be doing a 2nd oil change (if it gets running) shortly after, do you think travelers SAE 30 will work for a short time?


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I definitely agree with the 2nd oil change. Since you are based in Iowa and cold weather, I believe a multi-viscosity oil is preferred, but the Tractor Supply SAE 30 should be OK for the first flush. Any water in the system should end up getting flushed to the bottom of the pan.
 

Falconair07

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I definitely agree with the 2nd oil change. Since you are based in Iowa and cold weather, I believe a multi-viscosity oil is preferred, but the Tractor Supply SAE 30 should be OK for the first flush. Any water in the system should end up getting flushed to the bottom of the pan.
Hopefully got most of it hahaha. Thanks for the input!
 

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Falconair07

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Taking a small victory today. Electrical seems decent so far, normal and blackout lighting works. No low air horn or light (not sure if this has a horn). Right taillight out, no change with brake application. All flashers and blinkers work.
 

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HDN

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Taking a small victory today. Electrical seems decent so far, normal and blackout lighting works. No low air horn or light (not sure if this has a horn). Right taillight out, no change with brake application.
There should be a low air buzzer under the dashboard that will sound if the air pressure drops below 60 PSI - or was it 65? Can't remember right now. A low-air light should also be lit on the gauge cluster the same time the buzzer is on.

While you're messing around in the cab, I suggest pulling the floor mats out from at least the driver side and passenger side floors. The mats retain moisture even if the cab hasn't been in a flood, so the floor could probably use a good air drying. I keep the mats in my shop in case I want to re-install them to present an accurate cab look for a truck show.
 
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