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New to me M35A3, suggestions needed

glcaines

Well-known member
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I absolutely wouldn't replace that starter. The starter didn't burn out, it simply got flooded and dirty. Take it to a reputable starter repair shop. They should be able to make it look and perform like new. If you don't have a local shop that can do the work, send me a PM and I'll send you contact information for a shop in Georgia that I've used to rebuild 24 VDC MV starters. They can service the starter, but you would have to ship it. The last one they rebuilt for me was ready in 3 days.
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
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Location
Sparta, MI
So I just read this whole thread. This is crazy! I've worked on the multi-fuel replacing head gaskets and a melted piston, but never on a cat engine, so my experience ends there, lol.
Sorry to hear about the starter. It's a shame there a douche bags out there scamming people like that.
Have you had a chance to check to see how the top half looked such as under the oil fill cap or removed the valve covers? I'm optimistic as far as , I think most of the oiled internals will be fine, but if water came in through the intake and seeped through the pistons, that's where it will get fuzzy. If you hook a strap wrench on the crank pulley and give it a turn, either it will be seized due to rust, have a rough grinding sound due to rust, or perhaps it will move smoothly and quietly with effort of course, but that means little to no rust and the engine isn't sized! I want to see this puppy come back to life!!💪
 

Falconair07

Well-known member
60
280
53
Location
SW Iowa
Here’s the update you’ve been waiting for. Got a new starter in. First attempt had sparks flying everywhere in the battery box. I put on new terminals and cleaned all the connections. Also pumped out all of the old red diesel after draining about 20 gallons of water out the bottom. Removed the fuel tank and pressure washed it to get a little bit of sediment out. Today I mounted the tank back and charged the batteries. The starter cranked solid, I did 15 sec on 1 min off, half throttle but nothing. After a some help from my buddy, and a can of ether, she ran but only on ether. On the third try, she was running on her own fuel supply! At first try, she ran in D and R, but quickly gave up and now doesn’t engage. I have not done anything with the transmission yet, as I wanted to see if she would come back to life before I dug in super deep and $$$. RPM guage doesn’t work, and no air pressure. BUT SHE RUNS!
 

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rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Sorry but your transmission is toast. Any water on the clutch discs will cause "delamination" of material. Since this set for three years there is no way any clutch disc will be good. That includes the torque convertor lock-up clutch too. Also the rust factor on the valves and other hard parts will cause severe damage.
Try and find a good AT540 and just use that.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Fortunately AT545 transmissions seem plentiful and the TMs cover that replacement in detail.

I think it would be neat to pull the old transmission apart to see the wrecked clutch disks.
It usually ends up a stinking gooy mess.
I've seen good AT540's go for as little as $350.00 . They are not popular anymore because of the lack of an overdrive gear. A good TH4L80E is around $700.00 and just as strong as a AT540 when built right. They actually share the same "forward" and "direct" clutches. Of course it is longer and it would be a pain to find the correct yoke.
 
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