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New to me MEP002A Few issues

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Isaac-1

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SW, Louisiana
Last year it was about $30-$50 per injector depending on if it needed a new nozle, this is for basic service / pop off pressure adjustment, not a full rebuild, new old stock they sell for about $130
 
M

Maddogg2.0

New member
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Riverisde, Ca
Well, today I got home, and let the preheat system run for 45 secs, then fired it up. I added 2 videos so you can see the issues im still having. I was able to get the throttle adjustment cable working, but the voltage gauge still likes to sit around 140. I still don't think its running on both cylinders, so I took the injector lines off, cleaned em out, put em back on, and its still running funny. I took a temp gun and shot the exhaust manifolds on the 2 different cylinders and one read 379, and the other read 127, so this leads me to think that one is either not getting proper fuel, or its down on compression. In one of the videos, youll see me slowly cracking the nuts for the injection lines on the IP when the engines running, and youll hear a slight difference when either are cracked, but the cylinder that has the hotter of the 2 exhaust temps, makes a much more noticible difference when its cracked. I took a reading on the batteries when its running and I was only getting 23.8 volts, but after 5 mins of running, the voltage was up to 24.1 so its charging slowly, and I think the fact that its not running properly and at the right rpms's has something to do with it. Im not exactly sure if the position of the reconnect switch, or the ammeter, volt meter, phase selection switch hads an effect on the gauges reading, and Im not sure what position they are in because the knobs are missing. I have ordered new ones.

the first vid is me firing it up, and adjusting the throttle, it also shows the gauges dancing all over, the second vid is when I crack the fuel lines to show the audible difference

http://youtu.be/wGarsUOaBLs

http://youtu.be/RXLJXrchu_w



Be sure to check out the vids and let me know,

Thanks,
Andy
 
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Rapracing

Member
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Western Pennsylvania
It appears you cracked the lines at the injection pump and not the injectors?

As to the switch's the first pic it would depend on what voltage you are trying to get. I can't tell on the second one, is that a shaft sticking out of the cabinet or is it broken off?
 
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Maddogg2.0

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the knob is just missing, its not broken off. For the time being im trying to get 120/1 phase, im just trying to find out where its currently pointed at so I can adjust it.

Also, I cracked the lines at the IP and not up at the injectors, because I was worried that some fuel might drip onto the toasty hot glow plug, or hit something else that was hot, and possibly start a fire.
 
Jimc

Jimc

Member
725
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Location
Mullica, nj
well as for the switch on the control panel, here is a pic of it so you can get an idea of the direction it points by where the "D" is facing. i do have the switches avail if you decide you dont want to continue to turn it with a pair of pliers :p

the switch for the big voltage selector on the distribution box i cant remember off hand which way that goes. the little shaft sticking off the side either point with the arrow or away. going by how its pointing i believe it points with it. that knob take alot of torque to turn it so its one i can really design and print out. i had one missing and i got one brand new from the big auction site.
 

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Rapracing

Member
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The switch is a three position..should be 208/120 3 ph to the left, 120 single ph center and 240/120 right. (This is the one down by the breaker). Emphasis, should be. I'd consult the manual for the setting on the control panel. Mine are set on 240/120 and I don't recall where it is to be for 120. Also for which lugs to use. You should probably review the grounding as well to avoid injury or death.
 
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Maddogg2.0

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Will the position of the switches have an effect on the reading on the voltage gauge, ie 120 volt or 240 or is the voltage reading representing the max voltage the genny is producing.

Could you send me a pm with ur info, id like to see about buying a knob for the main selector switch down by the breaker.

Thanks for the info btw I was scratching my head as to whether it was the flat part od the d part which represented position
 
rustystud

rustystud

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In the video I saw you adjust the engine speed, and it was able to get to the 60HZ, but you never adjusted the voltage using the voltage switch. Have you tried adjusting the voltage with the switch with the engine running at 60HZ ? Also the position of the main switch ( the switch that determines whether your running 3 phase or single phase 120 or 240 ) will determine what the voltage will be reading, after you adjust it with the switch.
 
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dangier

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Orange, VA
I would also check the valve adjustment and engine timing as soon as I could. TM's explain the procedures. Not as hard as it first sounds when you read it. You asked about the courtesy outlet being disconnected-I had two 002's with the courtesy outlet also disconnected. Never found out why.
You are on the right path.
David
 
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JimH

Member
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6
Location
Delaware, OH
First off, congrats on getting a runner without a lot of work. That is half the battle right there. As a suggestion, and there are many schools of thought, pick up some Diesel Kleen, and run that through the pumps, filters and the IP until you see it coming back on the return line to the tank, and let it sit for a day. From your description, before you start tearing things down, you might want to try dissolving any possible crud that you could have in the fuel system. Some folks prefer Sea Foam for this, but some kind of injection cleaner is better than fresh diesel and ATF. Your results may vary, but it is important to have a clean fuel system. It won't hurt anything, and could possibly clear things up.

As for your electrical problem, check to see if your voltage regulator board (inside the control box) has a good ground on it. If the screws and nuts holding the board to the side of the cabinet are rusty, replace them and clean everything up to get a good ground. Your voltage could be off because of your switch settings, but the voltage regulator could be giving you some problems too. In any case, it is good preventative maintenance to take this step.
 
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Maddogg2.0

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Riverisde, Ca
Thanks for the info guys, I will check the valves and timing. I am able to see a bit of a difference with the voltage adjustment seitch but not much. I think it has to do with the fact that the engines not completely happy yet. My master reconnect switch "the one by the main breaker" is stuck in the far clockwise position which from the diagram should be 120/240 single phase which is fine because I plan on running my house off of it once its happy. I will try the good Injector cleaners and see what happens. Also, which tm would be the best to use for valve adjustments and ip timing? I have like 6 different manuals and I really. Don't see a difference between them despite being called different things, depot maintenance, maintenance, field maint, etc.
Id also like to find a good set of wiring schematics so I can get the courtesey outlet working again, and also figure out what wire terminal 6 on tb3 is because its disconnected and id love to figure out what it feeds
 
reset2

reset2

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Myersville MD
dangier said:
I would also check the valve adjustment and engine timing as soon as I could. TM's explain the procedures. Not as hard as it first sounds when you read it. You asked about the courtesy outlet being disconnected-I had two 002's with the courtesy outlet also disconnected. Never found out why.
You are on the right path.
David
Click to expand...
Did you ever hook up again the courtesy outlet?
 
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