New to me Winch - Inspection

[colsoncj]

So I have an M35A2 W/W that is now new to me. I want to go through the winch to thoroughly inspect it, verify its operation, and prepare it for use. I've looked through the field manual and operators manual breifly and not having much luck. I've also done searching and found plenty on changing the shear pin, but not what I'm looking for. Can someone point me in the right direction?

 

[colsoncj]

Scratch that... found some info... Field Service Manual (TM 9-2320-361-24-2), Volume 2, Chapter 3, Work Packets 034200 to 034900.

Also (from other forum members!):

- inspect the PTO visually from underneath (severe leaks? loose stuff?)

- inspect the winch driveshaft, including aluminum shear pin (or is it a steel bolt that soldier A left in there??)

- grease the grease zerks on PTO shaft (2 of them).

- with engine off, PTO disengaged, drum lock off, winch clutch lever OUT and winch hook and chain unhooked, pull on the winch cable. Does the drum spin and can you unwind a few yards of cable?.

- with engine off, PTO disengaged, drum lock off, winch clutch lever IN and winch hook and chain unhooked, turn driveshaft by hand .
Does it turn both ways? Does the winch drum spin? If there is no way you can turn it, disengage the winch clutch. If you can turn the shaft now, you could have an issue with the band brake. If you still cannot turn the shaft, ensure everything is really disengaged; you could have an issue with the winch drive (worm gear).

- check oil presence and level in the winch housing. If there is none, add something thick....pure Lucas oil additive, for example. Many use cornhead grease (oil that behaves like grease; from JohnDeere). Mil Spec fluid is 90W GL1. Spec capacity is 1.5 pints on Drivers side, 0.75 pints on Passenger side. Likely, your winch seals are leaking (common).

With this inspection satisfactory, you could be more confident powering up the winch as per the TM.

I think the most important advice is that the winch is operated from the cab - not by playing with the drum clutch up front.

 

[cattlerepairman]

First off - commendation for asking. Many people just **assume** they can figure the winch out and do crazy things. You took the time to look and ask.


Aside from what you find in the manual, I would

- inspect the PTO visually from underneath (severe leaks? loose stuff?)

- inspect the winch driveshaft, including aluminum shear pin (or is it a steel bolt that soldier A left in there??)

- grease the grease zerks

- with engine off, PTO disengaged, drum lock off, winch clutch lever OUT and winch hook and chain unhooked, pull on the winch cable. Does the drum spin and can you unwind a few yards of cable?.

- with engine off, PTO disengaged, drum lock off, winch clutch lever IN and winch hook and chain unhooked, turn driveshaft by hand .
Does it turn both ways? Does the winch drum spin? If there is no way you can turn it, disengage the winch clutch. If you can turn the shaft now, you could have an issue with the band brake. If you still cannot turn the shaft, ensure everything is really disengaged; you could have an issue with the winch drive (worm gear).

- check oil presence and level in the winch housing. If there is none, add something thick....pure Lucas oil additive, for example. Many use cornhead grease (oil that behaves like grease; from JohnDeere). Likely, your winch seals are leaking (common).

With this inspection satisfactory, you could be more confident powering up the winch as per the TM.

I think the most important advice is that the winch is operated from the cab - not by playing with the drum clutch up front.

 

[Stretch44875]

Thanks for coming back and posting where to find the info.

 

[gimpyrobb]

There is some jackazz that tries to show you how to use one on utube:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxnFB_Lz-ss[/media]

 

[colsoncj]

The reason I didnt delete the thread, being an active member on several forums and an admin on others, I know its useful to leave threads like this that provide the closed loop information that searchers look for.

Cattle... Couple of things. First thank you very much for the info. Second, stupid as it may be, there are fill and drain plugs on either side of the drum. From the manual they spec the right side level, but not the left (or I havent found it). What is the proper level in both sides and best way to check and verify?

Also, My left side fill plug will not come loose (managed to rock the whole deuce trying to get it off). Beside torch heat to break it, any suggestions?

Finally, you mention zerks, I have found the PTO shaft zerks, but none on the winch itself. Also, for cable lube, what is everyone's recommendation?

 

[Akicita]

Don't rely on the clutch lever on the winch when you try out how it works.
The winch should be operated from the driver's seat.

My winch works well but it is not always possible to quickly disengage the clutch lever when you want to. Get someone to assist you and be safe when you work with the winch.

Enjoy your new toy !

 

[Stretch44875]

There is some jackazz that tries to show you how to use one on utube

Hey, at least I try! What's bad is I broke the shear pin, and now the shaft is galled up. So need to pull the winch and fix it. Note to self, lube the shaft where the shear pin is. Also going to put some seals in it.

 

[mcmullag]

Somebody above asked about how much fluid- specs= GL1 90 W, Driver side = 1.5 pints, Passenger side = .75 pints

 

[cattlerepairman]

Second, stupid as it may be, there are fill and drain plugs on either side of the drum. From the manual they spec the right side level, but not the left (or I havent found it). What is the proper level in both sides and best way to check and verify??

Answered in post above - thanks! I just pour stuff in until full....now I know.

Also, My left side fill plug will not come loose (managed to rock the whole deuce trying to get it off). Beside torch heat to break it, any suggestions

The usual...aerokroil or other rustbuster...tighten more before trying to loosen...gentle heat.

Finally, you mention zerks, I have found the PTO shaft zerks, but none on the winch itself. Also, for cable lube, what is everyone's recommendation

Yes, I refer to the PTO shaft zerks. Cable lube...that may be a flame starter. Some people see cable lube just as a dirt catcher.

 

[colsoncj]

Somebody above asked about how much fluid- specs= GL1 90 W, Driver side = 1.5 pints, Passenger side = .75 pints

Answered in post above - thanks! I just pour stuff in until full....now I know.

So drain and fill to 1.5pt/.75pt. Good to know. Also, I knew the spec fluid was 90W, curious why you recommed the different fluid you use cattelman? Just want to make sure I clearly understand. Also, how do you properly check fluid level on each side? I'm assuming that capacity is not full to the brim, so how do you know what full is without a drain and refill?

The usual...aerokroil or other rustbuster...tighten more before trying to loosen...gentle heat.

Thats what I figured. Was also going to look for a decent impact so I can try and "shock" it lose.

Yes, I refer to the PTO shaft zerks. Cable lube...that may be a flame starter. Some people see cable lube just as a dirt catcher.

We'll leave that alone then...
Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Also, I knew the spec fluid was 90W, curious why you recommed the different fluid you use cattelman?

Because in my winch, 90W makes puddles under the bumper. Thicker stuff stays in. I have read numerous accounts here of people re-sealing their winches, only to have them leak again shortly thereafter. My reasoning is that I want lubrication for the winch for the few times it actually gets used.

 

[colsoncj]

makes sense....

only question left is then how to properly check the fluid in both sides without draining and refilling.

 

[LongueCarabine]

Is there a difference in using GL-5 80W90 vs. using GL-1 80W90?

LC

 

[LongueCarabine]

Well, it looks like a GL-5 with MT-1 classification will do, if the link below is right.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/41187-wwhat-does-term-yellow-metal-mean.html

If anyone has any contrary information, please let me know.

LC

 

[spicergear]

Yellow Metal is the brass, bronze or the like typically in the tranny like a synchronizer ring or something.

ONE OTHER THING TO CHECK ON THE WINCH!!! -take out the bottom drain plug, take out the side/fill plug and shine a light in it through one or the other so you're able to see the worm gear. Occasionally the winch will sit and seep water into it. If the leak is bad enough it will float the oil up and have the worm drive sitting in water. Once that worm gear rusts...kiss your big bronze bull gear and nice tight winch good bye especially if the worm is pitted.

 

[rolling18]

Yellow Metal is the brass, bronze or the like typically in the tranny like a synchronizer ring or something.

ONE OTHER THING TO CHECK ON THE WINCH!!! -take out the bottom drain plug, take out the side/fill plug and shine a light in it through one or the other so you're able to see the worm gear. Occasionally the winch will sit and seep water into it. If the leak is bad enough it will float the oil up and have the worm drive sitting in water. Once that worm gear rusts...kiss your big bronze bull gear and nice tight winch good bye especially if the worm is pitted.

intresting..
i finished installing mine and plant to run it for the first time soon!!
only thing i did not do was drain the smaller side of whatever is in there because that large threaded bar with the nuts on it is preventing access to the drain plug!!

i also discovered that the drain plugs (with the hex fitting) are magnetic!
and the square ones are not and mine were installed in reverse positions.

what happens if i unscrew that large bar thing on the bottom to change fluid?

 

[gringeltaube]

............. only thing i did not do was drain the smaller side of whatever is in there because that large threaded bar with the nuts on it is preventing access to the drain plug!!.....

It should not... see pics below

.... i also discovered that the drain plugs (with the hex fitting) are magnetic! and the square ones are not ...

Good for you; most of the winches come with 5 plain (non-magnet) plugs, either style - 9/16" hex or 1/2"square.

.... what happens if i unscrew that large bar thing on the bottom to change fluid

You won't be able to remove that rod without dissassembling the whole winch!
But if you had that threaded end on the clutch housing side sticking out to far you could loosen the nut there and also the (counter)nut on the gear housing side and try to screw the rod IN 2-3 turns. But keep in mind that that is a through-hole there and it needs to be sealed well!
Or simply cut off the protruding threads with a small wheel grinder, if that's in the way to unscrew the plug.

G.

 

[rolling18]

It should not... see pics below

Good for you; most of the winches come with 5 plain (non-magnet) plugs, either style - 9/16" hex or 1/2"square.

You won't be able to remove that rod without dissassembling the whole winch!
But if you had that threaded end on the clutch housing side sticking to far out you could loosen the nut there and also the (counter)nut on the gear housing side and try to screw the rod IN 2-3 turns. But keep in mind that that is a trough-hole there and it needs to be sealed well!
Or simply cut off the protruding threads with a small wheel grinder, if that's in the way to unscrew the plug.

wait you said 5 plugs??? I only saw the 4..

G.

yes im wondering if the passenger side smaller side ever had any lube in it changed because of lack of access.. that threaded rod is WELL over the drain plug an cannot get any tool that large there..

i likr the cutting idea, but shouldnt thar threaded ron be more "in" the winch to hold something? hmmm...

 

[gringeltaube]

You probably missed the oil level plug, on the outer side of the gear housing...?

Yes, IMO you should try screwing that rod a couple turns more IN, provided it still is fairly straight. But before loosening anything measure the exact distance between both housings. Cut a stick or rod to exact fitting lenght and use for reference.

What was pictured in my previous post is the original rod. It has a total lenght of 16.5", little over 1 ft non-threaded area; 1.75" threaded on the gear housing side and 2.5" on the clutch housing side.
I never found one longer than that; but I had one, 1/2" shorter (= only 1.25" thread, on the drivers side)!

Image below shows what happened to that gear case.... obviously!

G.