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tim292stro's M1009 (formerly math1960's)

emeralcove

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I don't see that you resolved the turn signal working with the headlights, I had a similar problem and traced it to a broken lamp socket, a piece of metal that made contact with the outer shell of the lamp base broke off and was laying across both filament pins on the base of the lamp so when the head lights were on both filaments were powered up and the flasher was effectively bypassed. A new lamp socket ordered on-line corrected that issue.
 

tim292stro

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Yup, it's buried in the second sentence of post 73, right front parking socket had a bad contact. I have on the list of things to do with me extra money :lol: to replace all of the sockets on the truck.

Good, looking, out [thumbzup]

Biggest thing I'm doing this week is chasing rain leaks. Weather stripping is all shot, and it seems every time the rain changes directions I have a new leak to go after. :deadhorse:
 

emeralcove

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I do hope you enjoy your M1009 as much as I have mine. It was a low mileage basket case when I towed it home from Nellis AFB and it took awhile to get it where it is today but it is very reliable, starts easier than most new cars and puts a smile on my face everyday I drive it. I have been following you XM1027 build and am doing a variation of that starting with a 1978 crew cab dually I have had for nearly 20 years. I appreciate the insight and ideas you bring to your projects, it sparks lots ideas on what I am doing. After trying the 12 volt conversion I switched back to the 24 volt and fixed everything that was wrong with the system and it works flawlessly now. I especially enjoy the sequence of operation of the glow plug controller and how quickly the engine starts regardless of how long it sits or how cold it is. I know I have not experienced really COLD weather but even below 32 degrees it starts within a few revolutions. There would be so much less fun with the "toggle switch fix" for the glow plugs. The 24 volt solar charger works great as well, as long as it is parked outside where the sun can reach the little "panel" it can sit for months and it still starts just fine.
 

tim292stro

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I have the toggle switch now (as it came) - haven't had time to dig into the glow plug controls like I'd prefer. I do have a new AntennaClimber glow plug controller card ready to go, but I'm also working on getting some switches made that allow the manual glow to also give you the diagnostic feedback every day. It's good to have a backup, and better to know when you need to use it.
Glow_Switch.JPG

Also glad to hear you went back to 24V - really 24V is a diesel's friend, and yes a solar-charger/Solargizer makes it just that more reliable. [thumbzup] Keeping the computerized stuff to a practical but effective minimum is the name of the game on this chassis, though I will be using the removable Carputer build as a "dress rehearsal" and development platform for the XM1027 communications/control/entertainment systems.

I should be doing a bit more on the XM1027 this fall, I have to move the other donor truck to the storage yard - the guy who sold it to me and is holding it at his yard is moving so that's forcing my hand.


But yup, very happy so far, and I've really started feeling comfortable with the 30 year old truck quirks in the last week - just rolled over 90K this past week, so it's time for another oil change to see if any surprises are inside where I can't easily see.


Thanks again Wally!
:beer:
 
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emeralcove

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I am almost afraid to delve into the "Carputer" aspect of your build as it will probably be yet another item I find just too darn cool/useful to do with out. I did cave to the technology a bit and added a holder for the smart phone attached to the front of the center console, it positions the key board so it is easily viewed while driving and the Bluetooth headset allows me to hear someone on the phone while driving on the freeway with the windows open, which isn't possible with a normal Bluetooth. While what I have added to my truck that may not be everyone's "cup of tea", I do like the way it works for me, excuse the mess in the truck, it is carrying items for several projects at once. I made a couple sheet metal mounts for items on the dash mount for radios that do what I want but do not alter the original mounting plate if I ever want to restore it back to original. The center console is from Tuffy Products re-painted rattle can green, I like it because it has lots of room inside and is extremely secure to the point it would be more trouble than it is worth to try and pry it open when locked and it has a secure space for a radio/CD player that preserves the standard military instrument panel.
M1009 dash radio mount.jpgM1009 center console.jpg
 

Another Ahab

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You got a real nice set-up there, emeralcove.

I'm not that familiar with the M1109; is that flexible tube from the canister on the dash some kind of NBC warning system or something...

Or maybe it's your built-in Hookah!?

And you look relatively new on-board here so welcome to you from Virginia. :)
 
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tim292stro

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Looks functional - that's probably the most important, appearance usually takes a back seat when time is short but yours looks good.

Ahab that's a gooseneck holder (phone, microphone...).

When I did the family trip in the spring, we did a cell mount to the windshield and an Aukey 4-port usb charger. We blew through 10GB of data in no time - GPS with satellite imagery eats data like a termite eats wood.

Ths trick with the carputer in this truck will be to make it blend in - not easy to do with a 1986 Chevy and a 12" LCD, but not impossible. The XM1027 will have a different style, so I'm less interested in "blending" there and more interested in the function.
 

tim292stro

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Wierd, double post... well it's cold here this morning, I saw frost on the hood of the M1009 when helping my wife pack out an hour ago. Glad to have functional glow plugs...
 
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emeralcove

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cockpit light 1.jpgCockpit light 2.jpgThat canister is actually a aircraft cockpit light and the coiled power cord is what you see as a flexible tube. It is a fun little item used in both military and commercial aircraft, has red and clear lenses as well as a flood/spot adjustment. It is set in a mount that allows the light to be pulled out to use remotely as well. You can find them on eBay for reasonable prices or new for crazy expensive prices, the good part is they are still manufactured in Walnut, CA so repair parts are also available. I joined SS a few years ago and mostly have just read what others have done, but as retirement draws closer (16 months) I find I really want to play with my projects more. My wife and I started with a purchase of a M35A2, a trailer for it then the M1009, a trailer for it, a generator.................. well you get the picture, LOL. I do appreciate what everyone on this site contributes to make this hobby/obsession vastly more enjoyable. I know shortly after I towed our M1009 home and I was working to re-assemble the pile of parts that resembled a vehicle, I learned why there was a "Doghead relay fix", you have no idea how long it takes to open the hood and disconnect batteries to stop the starter that is "locked on". It was too late for the starter but I did save burning all the wiring up. Anyway that was when I learned the value of SS!
 

Another Ahab

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I joined SS a few years ago and mostly have just read what others have done, but as retirement draws closer (16 months) I find I really want to play with my projects more. My wife and I started with a purchase of a M35A2, a trailer for it then the M1009, a trailer for it, a generator.................. well you get the picture, LOL. I do appreciate what everyone on this site contributes to make this hobby/obsession vastly more enjoyable.
I think that's Physics, there are Black Holes and then there is the Green Hole:

- You get yourself the first piece of rolling green iron, and then...

Before you know it you are sucked-in, and your yard starts to fill up with all KINDS of MV hardware. Science is still trying to come up with an explanation.


science.jpg
 

jpg

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Bose makes nice noise cancelling headphones, with circuitry designed to cancel the drone of aircraft engines. They are not rated as hearing protection.

Peltor makes shooting ear protection with audio. The circuitry lets you hear conversations but it suppresses peaks like gunshots. It mechanically suppresses (not cancels) all sound.

Both will take input from your cell or MP3. Both make long drives less tiresome in loud MVs. The Peltor is a fraction of the cost of the Bose. The audio quality is commensurate to the price.

Traffic laws about ear protection vary. The Peltor is designed to let you hear your surroundings, while protecting your hearing. The Bose is designed to allow you to hear music in a noisy environment. If you have to explain yourself to a cop, the Peltor might be an easier sell. YMMV

I've used both. I drive with the Peltor. (My kid took the Bose.)

Bose also makes aircraft headsets with noise cancelling microphones, in addition to the noise cancelling earphones. They cost a lot, but I'm told they work well in small planes with loud engines. They should be adaptable to MV radios...
 
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Skinny

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I had a Bose headset when I used to fly a Cessna. When you turned the switch on, the loud drone of the engine would pretty much disappear. They are worth the money but at $1k, not accessible to everyone.

I drive my M1031 with a set of foam plugs, they work great for long hauls.

I used to drive an older pickup with no radio using my Apple earbuds. I was ticketed years ago for this and immediately stopped. Now I do it all the time in my car which is OK because everything up here is hands free now. Have to love the law...whatever makes money!

I'm sure if you have earbuds in, no one would be the wiser as to what you are doing. If you have over the ear muffs, I think you start to go into the gray zone with Johnny Law.
 

emeralcove

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I chose the Bluetooth head set with only one ear covered just to avoid a ticket, not that having my ears uncovered in my M35A2 would allow me to hear anything over the truck itself........... but I try not mix logic into laws that are more revenue based than safety based. I do often wonder how the active military can operate on public highways with hearing protection but non military in the same vehicle cannot. Of course I never used hearing protection driving vehicles in the military 40 years ago, only around aircraft so I am happy to see current active military does practice good hearing safety.
 

tim292stro

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I picked up a few task lights from EnteJager for both the M1009 and my XM1027. They are similar to the aircraft map light in the picture, but use "secure" white (IR filtered white) and NVIS-A green LEDs. I figured a map light would be good and would look right given that the military uses them all over the place. Just needs 24V.
NVG9.jpg

For this truck, I'm hoping to not have to use hearing protection long term, for now I use Plantronics in-ear Bluetooth headset which is my hands-free device. Since I'm deaf in one ear, it doesn't matter that I don't plug both ears... :beer:

Head on a gimbal to look for siren enabled vehicles all the time though - just like looking for kids, motorcyclists, pedestrians, wildlife...
 
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emeralcove

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The cockpit lights are 24 volt but the 12 volt conversion is merely installing a 12 volt lamp, they do offer them in new LED but WOW are they expensive, so I am happy with them as is and can always upgrade later or perform a "LED enhancement" when other projects are completed.
 

Another Ahab

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I'm deaf in one ear, it doesn't matter that I don't plug both ears...

Head on a gimbal to look for siren enabled vehicles all the time though - just like looking for kids, motorcyclists, pedestrians, wildlife...
Oh, and headlights right?

Who among us isn't always on the lookout for headlights!?

You know, to be totally safe and all.... :whistle:


Headlights.jpg
 

tim292stro

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The ones from EnteJager were $65 a piece - I bought 6x. He still has a few left. For the XM1027, one of my design requirements was being able to drive with AN/AVS-6 NVG which are only compatible with NVIS-A lighting to avoid washing out the imager tubes. The tubes are fitted with a 625nm high-pass cut-off filter, so the are not sensitive to light below cyan on the rainbow (blue-green, blue, violet...), but you still need to be careful with the cabin/instument intensities so that ambient light doesn't affect ones pupil dilation (making the NVG image harder to see).

I have some NVIS-A green and yellow LEDs I bought from a vendor called Wamco (they produce cockpit display systems, etc...),
IMG_20131113_210428_1_smaller.jpg
so I can do instrument lighting and idiot lights - I also have blue/white Grote LED dome lights to use - the map lights were the last piece I wanted - I don't like washing myself in more light than I need for a task, so these lights from EnteJager were perfect!!
 
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tim292stro

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Yeah okay - today it was harder to start the truck. I did 30 seconds of manual glow, but being below 40°F (4.5°C) and being in the shade in the morning she was bitter cold. When it turned over and sounded like it was firing on only 3 cylinders until I had done some after glow (3-seconds-on 3-seconds-off pulses for about 1.25 minutes). I am now more motivated to put some time into getting the automatic glow system sorted out this weekend - gotta see if I can take the kids over to the grandparents for a visit while I work in the driveway... :mrgreen:
 

emeralcove

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fuel filter 1.jpgfuel filter 2.jpgI have found there are two possible problems for cold starting, the first is the obvious glow plug issue, the other took me a while to figure out as it came on very slowly. I first experienced it when the overnight temperatures dropped, then later I noticed is was worse if the front of the truck were up-hill even a little, then it was a complete PITA to start and I was having to bleed air from the fuel filter, I changed the lift pump, no joy, started looking for air leaks in the fuel line, changed the box like fuel filter, still without success. Finally I replaced the entire fuel filter and added a hand "priming" pump because I was so used to having to bleed air from the fuel lines. As it turned out the priming pump worked great for the initial "bleed" but have never had to use it again, but by gosh I have it now if I need it, LOL. The needle valve is for bleeding the trapped air, it also has not been needed after the initial start up. This is a modular filter and both water separator and fuel heater can be added so the "water in fuel" light can still be retained as well as the factory fuel heater in the fuel filter. The Bracket I made is just a flat piece of aluminum and two pieces of steel tubing as spaces for the longer bolts that uses the existing bolt holes so restoring back to the original style filter is a few minutes of wrench work.
 

Another Ahab

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Yeah okay - today it was harder to start the truck. I did 30 seconds of manual glow, but being below 40°F (4.5°C) and being in the shade in the morning she was bitter cold. When it turned over and sounded like it was firing on only 3 cylinders until I had done some after glow (3-seconds-on 3-seconds-off pulses for about 1.25 minutes). I am now more motivated to put some time into getting the automatic glow system sorted out this weekend - gotta see if I can take the kids over to the grandparents for a visit while I work in the driveway... :mrgreen:
If you sweeten the deal with something like a bucket of KFC (WITH all the sides), it might help win approval of the drop-off, you know!?
 
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