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I thought so, but I was serious!!All meant in fun!
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
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Garagefull
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Added gun storage and a cup holder..
Keith_J
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EGT installed for testing. If the cooling system is leaking into exhaust, I will see a dramatic temperature drop. Mounted it to the side of the STE-ICE port as I didn't have a 2-1/16" hole saw. Ideally a punch die set to mount next to the voltmeter as that is thin aluminum. I just tapped off the fuses for switched power and dash lights. Dash lights are fused 5A so plain tap. Switched power is 20 amp so it runs off a 1 amp piggy back fuse. Drilled a 7/16" hole through the firewall, just a bit down and out from the hole for the glowplug wiring.
Other issues found is possible sediment in the hot header tank as the bottom of the radiator is cool. Going to back flush when I get the time. Right now, the heater is used enough to keep overheating under control.
The other part of EGT testing is timing bump. It only has diesel clatter when cold so a bit more advanced will help economy and heat. At the expense of NOx increase.
Other issues found is possible sediment in the hot header tank as the bottom of the radiator is cool. Going to back flush when I get the time. Right now, the heater is used enough to keep overheating under control.
The other part of EGT testing is timing bump. It only has diesel clatter when cold so a bit more advanced will help economy and heat. At the expense of NOx increase.
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shotty
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Went to move the truck and it wouldn't crank.. batteries good. Tapped the starter with a hammer, no dice. Rolled it out of the way. Rig up that super handy trigger switch to the starter solenoid and the battery and see what happens. Solenoid engages, no crank tho. Voltage St starter remains the same. Bad starter..
Pull it out and sure enough the motor doesn't spin. Also found a nice short in my starter power cable.. new starter arrives Saturday, still trying to decide how I want to go about getting a new 4/0 starter cable though.
Pull it out and sure enough the motor doesn't spin. Also found a nice short in my starter power cable.. new starter arrives Saturday, still trying to decide how I want to go about getting a new 4/0 starter cable though.
MarcusOReallyus
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Have one made with marine grade wire, and whatever connectors you like. I like the clear heat shrink on both ends. That way I can see if any corrosion is hiding under there.
Terracoma
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^ I can vouch for this company, I'm using their cables on my M1008; they do good work and the material quality is excellent.
MarcusOReallyus
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Heh. My first cables with them were kind of pinkish, rather than a deep red. Looked like they were sun faded, except the color was uniform on all sides. Everything else was top notch. And the pink sort of blended in with the faded original cables, so, no harm, no foul. 
Later cables I've had made were the correct red, so, dunno what that pink stuff was about.
Later cables I've had made were the correct red, so, dunno what that pink stuff was about.
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Does anyone know if JB weld will work on a 208 transfer case? Mine was leaking and I found the source.
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LT67
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That looks better than the 14bolt on my 86 M1008
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Nevermind, found this in the spare parts bin. Actually, thanks to John of Hillbilly Wizard for sending me this takeout case for a fair price. Couple of carnage pics as well.
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Speaking of 14 bolts, this pic from last week.
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True Knight
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I’ve gotta know how that happened!
MarcusOReallyus
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Yeah, no problem. Just make sure you reinforce it with a little duct tape. It'll be good as new.
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Well, that is the million dollar question. My son was driving it while I was at the GA rally. I have my suspicions. First let me explain this. The lockout hubs are engaged 95% of the time. Where this truck sits, 4wd is required to get it out. My son had reported a vibration in the transmission shifter. This truck is a stick shift. I drove it and noted the same but didn't have time to troubleshoot. He drove the garbage to the dump and on the way home it grenaded. Oddly, he was able to limp it home a mile like that. The front driveshaft is gone. No idea where it went. The driveshaft flange has 2 sheared bolts and 2 missing. No thread damage to the missing bolt holes. I have a strong feeling that those bolts loosened and back out. With the hubs locked, when they finally got loose enough it slung the shaft around and did all the collateral damage. The floorboards is beaten up at least 2". Quite catastrophic.
shotty
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Napa pulled a fast one on me. They warrantied the 4 year old starter that died on me, which was a gear reduction unit, but they gave me a direct drive. Same part number though... Luckily I still have the direct drive starter support bracket in my parts box. Oddly enough I actually found it under the seat when I bought the truck and there was no bracket on the 12v gear reduction starter a mechanic installed, and the truck was still wired for 24v! back out to the garage to hopefully finish this starter install soon...
rustystud
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Man, when you grenade a transfer-case you don't fool around !
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Papa always said, any job worth doing, is worth doing 100%. I feel that he would be proud.
cucvrus
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My diagnosis of the cause is that the CV joint on the front drive shaft locked up and could not articulate/compress properly and forced the pressure back against the transfer case.( the weakest link) I had it happen on plow trucks. 2 already snapped at highway speed and broke the transfer case the spacer and the flange from the rear of the transmission. One on the 205 case broke the bell of the transmission. More like a crack but a big crack that pushed back and forth on the lot till I limped it back to the shop. That is my diagnosis as to the cause. Guess I'll never know if I am correct but that is a duplicate of the carnage I have seen with each front drive shaft CV failure from lack of grease and lock up. Glad you were able to fix it. Happy Holidays.
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I wish I could find the driveshaft to confirm that Rick. When yours failed, did the driveshaft remain with the truck? Any sheared or broken bolts at the yoke? Any floor pan damage?
cucvrus
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The 2 at highway speed everything was gone from the front driveshaft but the front yoke and the piece bolted onto the transfer case flange. And I could see it was hot and dry. On the new GMC truck back in 2015 the bolts were loose on the front shaft and that took off at highway speed with 2K miles on it.