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Yeah man, same reason I installed the keyless ignition security. One evening I was out in the fields a good distance from my truck, when from out of the darkness came- my truck!- my brother had shown up and decided to just take it for a ride to find me- I was far enough away that i didn't hear it start, and by then it was too late. I decided to use it as a wake-up call, ordered the ignition kit asap. Thankfully it was just my brother messing around, but it got my attention for sure.Remember that line in Jurassic park?
(park security) - How many time have I told you we need to install locking mechanisms in the car?!!
So someone left a note in my truck. It might have been honest enough, but it was sort of this "hey, tell me where I can get one of these, xxxxx, phone number)...
What REALLY killed me is that they left this note on the drivers side floor, not on the truck or under the wiper. THEY WERE INSIDE MY TRUCK. The more I think about it, the more pissed I was. NEVER touch a man's ride without permission, particularly a stranger, even if they were enamored with it...
GRR.. So, I solved that problem.
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I can't seem to find any info on cCree websites that they offer automotive lamps. The closest I found was parking lot lights. Anyways, why would a Jeep Wrangler headlight be 24 volts? Or can these handle a wide range of volts?I unsuccessfully installed cheap LED halo headlights.
Issue 1 - they didn't fit the bucket, had to grind down the housing of the lamp. It was easy, but annoying.
Issue 2 - hooked up the lights, they look great. they all seem to come with blinkers, so I hooked it up. It was amber and actually looked pretty good. So all looked good until I turned on the lights. Something in the blinker killed something in the light, and now the amber ring is always lit, not white. It still blinks, by itself, but with the lights on, the amber ring is lit too. Because this was a bust, I tried it with the other headlight just to test and sure enough, that was enough to kill that one too. With no blinker they look great.
The voltage was 24, so I'm not sure why the blinker killed it, but it did. So now out $85, and back to standard bulbs.
Moral of the story is do not buy the CREE 7" round halo Jeep Wrangler bulbs off eBay or Amazon.
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Yup, blinker is in series as well, so the normal blinker works too. I think the "halo" blinking is also a safety feature. I'm good with it. These are definitely multi volts. 10-30v.Jason . Most new cars with combination LED headlamp / turn indictor lights when you use the turn signals the white light goes out in the light and just the yellow or amber light flashes. Once the turn indicator light turns off the white light comes back on.
most automotive LED bulbs are 10-30 volts DC
Well, I cracked it open. I ended up just cutting the wire for the blinker (to the halo), then removing the other wires not needed. Bench tested and they work as I want. No components looked obviously blown. Siliconed them back up and we'll see how they hold up. Its a pure test at this moment. Check out how small the LED's are! Those glass / acrylic optics really do the magic.I might crack the headlights open to see what I can see. I am betting on a resistor.
I wouldn't paint them all with the same brush. The CREE part is just the LEDs, which anyone can buy and incorporate into a product. The maker of the overall assembly is the one not holding their end up. CREE LED's are good product and made in the USA!I unsuccessfully installed cheap LED halo headlights.
Issue 1 - they didn't fit the bucket, had to grind down the housing of the lamp. It was easy, but annoying.
Issue 2 - hooked up the lights, they look great. they all seem to come with blinkers, so I hooked it up. It was amber and actually looked pretty good. So all looked good until I turned on the lights. Something in the blinker killed something in the light, and now the amber ring is always lit, not white. It still blinks, by itself, but with the lights on, the amber ring is lit too. Because this was a bust, I tried it with the other headlight just to test and sure enough, that was enough to kill that one too. With no blinker they look great.
The voltage was 24, so I'm not sure why the blinker killed it, but it did. So now out $85, and back to standard bulbs.
Moral of the story is do not buy the CREE 7" round halo Jeep Wrangler bulbs off eBay or Amazon.
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I made something quick for mine out of aluminum angle and I have the factory civilian style but 24 volt light on order with the protective cover plate. I drilled and tapped some 3/8 holes into the top of the air lift bumper Personally I did not want my tag hanging below the bumper I will be taking this off road at some point
Here in KS for registration of vehicles that came from out of state they just do a VIN inspection to (supposedly) ensure that it's not stolen/re-titled. I don't drive a lot after dark anyway.I'm not seeing any license plate lights on these installations. Do your States not require that the License Plate be illuminated???
Waiting on an online source to get their 24 volt lights in stock that mimic the OEM H1 setup then I will install it. It had a cheesy light on it when I purchased the vehicle I did not want to put back on I do not drive at nightI'm not seeing any license plate lights on these installations.
Do your States not require that the License Plate be illuminated???
Zombie post!Oh, I did do a little work on my own HMMWV yesterday I should take credit for. Before heading out to TheCaptain's place, I pulled the heater blower motor and fan out and cleaned it all up. There was lots of debris, sand mostly, in the heater blower plenum, and the fan was a little out of balance. This all made terrible racket when using the fan. Knowing that winter is coming, I wanted it to be quieter and more effective. Now it works a treat.
Tip for those looking to repeat my work; you need to take off the upper hose that brings air to the defrosters and then you can see into the squirrel cage fan. From there turn the fan over until you find the set screw holding it on the flat of the motor shaft. Mine was a 1/8" allen screw. Then you can take out the screws that hold the motor assembly and part the fan from the motor. Otherwise the fan/motor assembly can't wiggle out, as it hits the side of the firewall/doghouse area. Reassembly is the reverse, put the fan inside and hold it through the hose opening while you get the motor shaft lined up, then tighten the set screw.
I need a new defroster air hose now, mine is torn in several spots, probably from things/people bumping into it. Advance Auto didn't have any, but I will look around.
Just glad to have heat without all that whining and noise from debris kicking around.
Has anyone put a cabin filter in one of these? I suppose it would get clogged pretty fast especially if off road a lot, but a piece of flat air cleaner foam like those sold for Edelbrock aftermarket air cleaners might work well enough.
Bulldogger
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