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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
Remember that line in Jurassic park?
(park security) - How many time have I told you we need to install locking mechanisms in the car?!!

So someone left a note in my truck. It might have been honest enough, but it was sort of this "hey, tell me where I can get one of these, xxxxx, phone number)...

What REALLY killed me is that they left this note on the drivers side floor, not on the truck or under the wiper. THEY WERE INSIDE MY TRUCK. The more I think about it, the more pissed I was. NEVER touch a man's ride without permission, particularly a stranger, even if they were enamored with it...

GRR.. So, I solved that problem.


IMG_0684.jpg
 

alphaseventwo

Member
70
10
8
Location
Chesterton Indiana
Remember that line in Jurassic park?
(park security) - How many time have I told you we need to install locking mechanisms in the car?!!

So someone left a note in my truck. It might have been honest enough, but it was sort of this "hey, tell me where I can get one of these, xxxxx, phone number)...

What REALLY killed me is that they left this note on the drivers side floor, not on the truck or under the wiper. THEY WERE INSIDE MY TRUCK. The more I think about it, the more pissed I was. NEVER touch a man's ride without permission, particularly a stranger, even if they were enamored with it...

GRR.. So, I solved that problem.


View attachment 741955
Yeah man, same reason I installed the keyless ignition security. One evening I was out in the fields a good distance from my truck, when from out of the darkness came- my truck!- my brother had shown up and decided to just take it for a ride to find me- I was far enough away that i didn't hear it start, and by then it was too late. I decided to use it as a wake-up call, ordered the ignition kit asap. Thankfully it was just my brother messing around, but it got my attention for sure.
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,708
2,261
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
Story time... years back while at a car show displaying my M37, I had taken a little walk around taking in the sites. Returning back to my setup, some goof ball was going over in the truck like he owned it. What the heck are you doing! He thought since he paid taxes he owned a piece of it. Figured he could go on a self guided tour, opening doors and fooling around. Dumb S*%T got an ear full after that.

So it a good idea to have locks and cut out switches, maybe big dog on a chain.

Sign say's protected by S&W.

CAM
 

therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
I unsuccessfully installed cheap LED halo headlights.

Issue 1 - they didn't fit the bucket, had to grind down the housing of the lamp. It was easy, but annoying.

Issue 2 - hooked up the lights, they look great. they all seem to come with blinkers, so I hooked it up. It was amber and actually looked pretty good. So all looked good until I turned on the lights. Something in the blinker killed something in the light, and now the amber ring is always lit, not white. It still blinks, by itself, but with the lights on, the amber ring is lit too. Because this was a bust, I tried it with the other headlight just to test and sure enough, that was enough to kill that one too. With no blinker they look great.

The voltage was 24, so I'm not sure why the blinker killed it, but it did. So now out $85, and back to standard bulbs.

Moral of the story is do not buy the CREE 7" round halo Jeep Wrangler bulbs off eBay or Amazon.

IMG_1194.JPG
IMG_1195.JPG
 
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Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,557
113
Location
East Tennessee
I unsuccessfully installed cheap LED halo headlights.

Issue 1 - they didn't fit the bucket, had to grind down the housing of the lamp. It was easy, but annoying.

Issue 2 - hooked up the lights, they look great. they all seem to come with blinkers, so I hooked it up. It was amber and actually looked pretty good. So all looked good until I turned on the lights. Something in the blinker killed something in the light, and now the amber ring is always lit, not white. It still blinks, by itself, but with the lights on, the amber ring is lit too. Because this was a bust, I tried it with the other headlight just to test and sure enough, that was enough to kill that one too. With no blinker they look great.

The voltage was 24, so I'm not sure why the blinker killed it, but it did. So now out $85, and back to standard bulbs.

Moral of the story is do not buy the CREE 7" round halo Jeep Wrangler bulbs off eBay or Amazon.

View attachment 742297
View attachment 742299
I can't seem to find any info on cCree websites that they offer automotive lamps. The closest I found was parking lot lights. Anyways, why would a Jeep Wrangler headlight be 24 volts? Or can these handle a wide range of volts?
The turn signal part is around the headlight? So, I have to look into your headlights to see the turn signal?
 
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BLK HMMWV

Well-known member
1,574
491
83
Location
Pasadena California
Jason . Most new cars with combination LED headlamp / turn indictor lights when you use the turn signals the white light goes out in the light and just the yellow or amber light flashes. Once the turn indicator light turns off the white light comes back on.
most automotive LED bulbs are 10-30 volts DC
 

therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
Jason . Most new cars with combination LED headlamp / turn indictor lights when you use the turn signals the white light goes out in the light and just the yellow or amber light flashes. Once the turn indicator light turns off the white light comes back on.
most automotive LED bulbs are 10-30 volts DC
Yup, blinker is in series as well, so the normal blinker works too. I think the "halo" blinking is also a safety feature. I'm good with it. These are definitely multi volts. 10-30v.

The CREE website lists the LED as the component, I think they are just a part of the whole headlights. So it's probably not CREE's fault. I might crack the headlights open to see what I can see. I am betting on a resistor.

https://www.cree.com/led-components/applications/vehicle
 
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therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
I might crack the headlights open to see what I can see. I am betting on a resistor.
Well, I cracked it open. I ended up just cutting the wire for the blinker (to the halo), then removing the other wires not needed. Bench tested and they work as I want. No components looked obviously blown. Siliconed them back up and we'll see how they hold up. Its a pure test at this moment. Check out how small the LED's are! Those glass / acrylic optics really do the magic.

IMG_0687.jpg
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,328
585
113
Location
Quantico VA
I unsuccessfully installed cheap LED halo headlights.

Issue 1 - they didn't fit the bucket, had to grind down the housing of the lamp. It was easy, but annoying.

Issue 2 - hooked up the lights, they look great. they all seem to come with blinkers, so I hooked it up. It was amber and actually looked pretty good. So all looked good until I turned on the lights. Something in the blinker killed something in the light, and now the amber ring is always lit, not white. It still blinks, by itself, but with the lights on, the amber ring is lit too. Because this was a bust, I tried it with the other headlight just to test and sure enough, that was enough to kill that one too. With no blinker they look great.

The voltage was 24, so I'm not sure why the blinker killed it, but it did. So now out $85, and back to standard bulbs.

Moral of the story is do not buy the CREE 7" round halo Jeep Wrangler bulbs off eBay or Amazon.

View attachment 742297
View attachment 742299
I wouldn't paint them all with the same brush. The CREE part is just the LEDs, which anyone can buy and incorporate into a product. The maker of the overall assembly is the one not holding their end up. CREE LED's are good product and made in the USA!
BDGR
 

AOR

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
150
37
28
Location
Burtonsville, MD.
I made something quick for mine out of aluminum angle and I have the factory civilian style but 24 volt light on order with the protective cover plate. I drilled and tapped some 3/8 holes into the top of the air lift bumper Personally I did not want my tag hanging below the bumper I will be taking this off road at some point
 

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MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,073
1,950
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
I did mine the same way.

Mark

I made something quick for mine out of aluminum angle and I have the factory civilian style but 24 volt light on order with the protective cover plate. I drilled and tapped some 3/8 holes into the top of the air lift bumper Personally I did not want my tag hanging below the bumper I will be taking this off road at some point
 

riderdan

Member
313
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
I'm not seeing any license plate lights on these installations. Do your States not require that the License Plate be illuminated???
Here in KS for registration of vehicles that came from out of state they just do a VIN inspection to (supposedly) ensure that it's not stolen/re-titled. I don't drive a lot after dark anyway.

I have the light, but I want to fab up something better than just my steel plate before I install it.
 

AOR

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
150
37
28
Location
Burtonsville, MD.
I'm not seeing any license plate lights on these installations.

Do your States not require that the License Plate be illuminated???
Waiting on an online source to get their 24 volt lights in stock that mimic the OEM H1 setup then I will install it. It had a cheesy light on it when I purchased the vehicle I did not want to put back on I do not drive at night
 

therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
Oh, I did do a little work on my own HMMWV yesterday I should take credit for. Before heading out to TheCaptain's place, I pulled the heater blower motor and fan out and cleaned it all up. There was lots of debris, sand mostly, in the heater blower plenum, and the fan was a little out of balance. This all made terrible racket when using the fan. Knowing that winter is coming, I wanted it to be quieter and more effective. Now it works a treat.

Tip for those looking to repeat my work; you need to take off the upper hose that brings air to the defrosters and then you can see into the squirrel cage fan. From there turn the fan over until you find the set screw holding it on the flat of the motor shaft. Mine was a 1/8" allen screw. Then you can take out the screws that hold the motor assembly and part the fan from the motor. Otherwise the fan/motor assembly can't wiggle out, as it hits the side of the firewall/doghouse area. Reassembly is the reverse, put the fan inside and hold it through the hose opening while you get the motor shaft lined up, then tighten the set screw.

I need a new defroster air hose now, mine is torn in several spots, probably from things/people bumping into it. Advance Auto didn't have any, but I will look around.

Just glad to have heat without all that whining and noise from debris kicking around.

Has anyone put a cabin filter in one of these? I suppose it would get clogged pretty fast especially if off road a lot, but a piece of flat air cleaner foam like those sold for Edelbrock aftermarket air cleaners might work well enough.

Bulldogger
Zombie post!

I unsuccessfully tried to get mine off today. My motor is just noisy as all get out, and I suspect it's just like everyone else's, but I wanted to isolate it from the cage and hear it by itself before condemning it. This method was perfect except that I can't get the squirrel cage off the shaft. The allen screw is 100% removed. AND it's as frozen either way so I am about to cut the shaft off and get new parts. I was expecting a slide off, and it's frozen on there good. I tried kroil and heat to no avail. I did move it about 1/2, but I think I have about 3/8 of an inch to go (its now flush with the shaft retainer on the squirrel cage. Anyone got any suggestions? . I am not married to this so cutting is rising to the top...

IMG_0708.jpg
 
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