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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

infidel got me

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Next time you mess with that hose, install the quick detach coupler. You'll be praising yourself for that official mod every time you look at it. Makes it possible to quickly disconnect the clutch without losing any fluid or needing to bleed the system.

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Those quick disconnects are garbage and will leak when you least expect it. The only time you have to disconnect that line is to change belts or a major repair... My new quick disconnect lasted about 4 months and started leaking on a 80 mile trip. I'll keep the old style without a doubt.
 

Ajax MD

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Mayo, MD
The search engine will not allow me to use "PVC" in a search due to it being too short or too common.
Does anyone have a photo of the DIY PVC turn signal cancel ring? I want to see how the cams are attached to the ring.

Second question: The TM states that when replacing the front, driver's side brake pads (only for that side), the half-axle must be removed.
Is this true? Why? What's the interfering component?
 

Bulldogger

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Quantico VA
Second question: The TM states that when replacing the front, driver's side brake pads (only for that side), the half-axle must be removed.
Is this true? Why? What's the interfering component?
I replaced my pads without removing the half shaft, but it was TEDIOUS and a lot of hassle. Removing the half shaft just means you can drop the rotor out of the way and reach things a little easier. It is possible, and since we're hobbyists and our time is worthless, it's not essential to rip so many things out to effect some repairs.
BDGR
 

Ajax MD

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@Bulldogger Roger, thanks for that.

- Well, I got under the truck and mic'd the discs and pads and they are all well within spec of the TM.
- The new turn signal flasher module arrived yesterday and that fixed the intermittent turn signals, now ALL lights work properly, 100% of the time.
- New wipers arrive today, which will fix that problem.
- I have some new marker light lenses and reflectors to install to replace the ones washed out by years of sunshine hitting one side of the truck.
- New gauge illuminator lenses arrive today to replace the blackened, melted ones.
- I scored some small rubber hold-downs for those access flaps on the rear door blank plates.

Looks like the Army got this truck hung up on some rocks. There are a few small holes torn in the floor pan. I'll use a hole saw to make these holes round and plug them with plastic or rubber floor pan drain plugs that are commonly available.

All this nickel-and-dime stuff is just to pass inspection. I'd really like to move on to fluid replacements and checking spindle nuts.
 
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Mogman

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I had an unused switch and light on my dash, I have no idea what they were for but they are no longer wired in with those should be illegal crimp splices, so I wired the light to one of the glow plug wires so I always know what the glow plugs are doing, this will be especially useful for me because I have started to troubleshoot/repair/upgrade some EESS boxes.
I did a video but I cannot upload the MPEG, probably a good thing, it just shows both the wait and glow plug light coming on solid until the wait light goes out and the glow plug light starts to flash (afterglow)
 

BLK HMMWV

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the holes in the floor were put there as a field mod in almost every truck . To let water out of the thing. since you can never make them water tight.
Most of the holes I've seen look like the were made with the end of a pick then opened up with the other end.
 

Ajax MD

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the holes in the floor were put there as a field mod in almost every truck . To let water out of the thing. since you can never make them water tight.
Most of the holes I've seen look like the were made with the end of a pick then opened up with the other end.
What you say makes sense except that the holes seem to be rather randomly placed. They are definitely crudely torn and jagged edged.
In any case, I expect the inspector to make noise about them, so I need to clean them up and plug them for the inspection. I can always remove the plugs later.

I ain't saying you're wrong but it would have been nice if the people making these mods had spent 30 seconds with a hole saw chucked in a drill instead of just tearing the floor pan open. It's aluminum, for cryin' out loud. Soft as butter.
 

Coug

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Olympia/WA
What you say makes sense except that the holes seem to be rather randomly placed. They are definitely crudely torn and jagged edged.
In any case, I expect the inspector to make noise about them, so I need to clean them up and plug them for the inspection. I can always remove the plugs later.

I ain't saying you're wrong but it would have been nice if the people making these mods had spent 30 seconds with a hole saw chucked in a drill instead of just tearing the floor pan open. It's aluminum, for cryin' out loud. Soft as butter.
Lots of things would be nice, but they trust 18 year olds with guns, not power tools, and no authorization to use tools to perform unauthorized modifications to vehicles anyway.
More than a few people have reported the extra drain holes in their trucks are 5.56 diameter, or 7.62.
 

Dayron84

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Tennessee
Lots of things would be nice, but they trust 18 year olds with guns, not power tools, and no authorization to use tools to perform unauthorized modifications to vehicles anyway.
More than a few people have reported the extra drain holes in their trucks are 5.56 diameter, or 7.62.



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BLK HMMWV

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What you say makes sense except that the holes seem to be rather randomly placed. They are definitely crudely torn and jagged edged.
In any case, I expect the inspector to make noise about them, so I need to clean them up and plug them for the inspection. I can always remove the plugs later.

I ain't saying you're wrong but it would have been nice if the people making these mods had spent 30 seconds with a hole saw chucked in a drill instead of just tearing the floor pan open. It's aluminum, for cryin' out loud. Soft as butter.
Every military truck is issued a pick / Maddox, ax, shovel, sledge. not so much with a hole saw and cordless drill
 
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