What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[Milcommoguy]

Sometime Humv' need a little percussion persuasion.

Not so sure I would have used the pointy tool... but you got it, CAMO

 

[osteo16]

Sometime Humv' need a little percussion persuasion.

Not so sure I would have used the pointy tool... but you got it, CAMO

In hindsight, I might have tried a long ratchet extension.. But the punch was the right length and fit right on that small edge.. Few dings, mehhh

 

[rcamacho]

Crawled out from under my dirty bastard 88’ M998 I was cleaning/prepping for paint to finish up renewing these beauties..

View attachment 808867View attachment 808868View attachment 808869

Ocho

Nice boots


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[osteo16]

Nice boots


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Purdy

 

[Coug]

Installed the federal military parts Class III 10k hitch. Found out when I unboxed it and then took off the rear crossmember under my truck that I'll need the bracket for the pintle as well, as my truck had the thick cross member that doesn't use the bracket.

No instructions with the hitch, and slightly confused as to why there are some bolts in the kit, and not as many washers as I would expect to do everything, but got it installed for now without the pintle.
The XM381 converter box should be here Saturday, then to install the Redarc Tow Pro Elite 12/24V trailer brake controller and wire it, along with a 12V feed (I have the 200 amp dual voltage gen, so good to go) into the 7 pin plug on the XM381 and I'll be good for civilian trailers (though I need to get a pretty big drop hitch to actually hook any of my trailers up)

 

[Ajax MD]

Installed the federal military parts Class III 10k hitch. Found out when I unboxed it and then took off the rear crossmember under my truck that I'll need the bracket for the pintle as well, as my truck had the thick cross member that doesn't use the bracket.

No instructions with the hitch, and slightly confused as to why there are some bolts in the kit, and not as many washers as I would expect to do everything, but got it installed for now without the pintle.
The XM381 converter box should be here Saturday, then to install the Redarc Tow Pro Elite 12/24V trailer brake controller and wire it, along with a 12V feed (I have the 200 amp dual voltage gen, so good to go) into the 7 pin plug on the XM381 and I'll be good for civilian trailers (though I need to get a pretty big drop hitch to actually hook any of my trailers up)

The XM381 is pricey but takes all the labor and hassle out of towing 12v civilian equipment. I have a large, heavy Coleman pop-up camper (2700lbs is heavy for a pop-up) that is right on the limits of my Subaru Outback but would probably be a joke for the HMMWV to tow. The pop-up is equipped with electric brakes but I question whether I'd even need to wire them up with the HMMWV.

For trips of 100-300 miles on level ground, the Outback is fine but I want to tow the pop-up to a mountain lake in PA that is well off the highways. It's all winding, secondary roads with steep grades at low speeds and I think the HMMWV would excel at that.

I'd be grateful if you'd post photos of how you wire in the brake controller to the 12v tap on the alternator, and also where you mount the brake controller...just in case I do end up wiring for electric brakes.

 

[Coug]

The XM381 is pricey but takes all the labor and hassle out of towing 12v civilian equipment. I have a large, heavy Coleman pop-up camper (2700lbs is heavy for a pop-up) that is right on the limits of my Subaru Outback but would probably be a joke for the HMMWV to tow. The pop-up is equipped with electric brakes but I question whether I'd even need to wire them up with the HMMWV.

For trips of 100-300 miles on level ground, the Outback is fine but I want to tow the pop-up to a mountain lake in PA that is well off the highways. It's all winding, secondary roads with steep grades at low speeds and I think the HMMWV would excel at that.

I'd be grateful if you'd post photos of how you wire in the brake controller to the 12v tap on the alternator, and also where you mount the brake controller...just in case I do end up wiring for electric brakes.

Legally, the trailer is supposed to weigh no more than 40% of the tow vehicle weight, or under 3k lbs without needing working brakes. For 2700 lbs your truck needs to be 6,750 lbs. I know mine is above that with the BEOD on it, but a stripped down soft top truck would be borderline. Not to say it won't work, just if something does happen then the lawyers might come into play and make everything your fault no matter what actually happened.

I do know how it feels for towing like that though. I tow my work trailer, a 5x8 enclosed utility trailer (according to the scales I'm usually around 22-2400 lbs), with my VW sportwagen TDI (had to get the european hitch for that weight, the U.S. hitch is rated for 1k lbs and is complete crap). And yes, I have trailer brakes in it as well and a tekonsha T3 controller in the car. It works extremely well, but I have a few customers I can't make it up their driveways because I lose traction with the front wheel drive.


For this particular brake controller, I can wire it to either 12 or 24V, and it will do 12V output (which means even an older truck with the 60 amp system can use it with no modification). My plan is to wire it directly to the battery. Then I will take a 12V feed off the battery for the accessory power line to the trailer.

As for mounting location, all I really need to figure out is where to put the adjustment knob. The main body of the brake controller can be mounted any location/any position. Also nice that it isn't made in china, but in Australia.
The knob itself is about 1" across, and needs 3 or 4 inches behind it to install. It then connects to the main unit with a CAT5 cable, right now I just need a longer cable and I'll probably mount the controller by the battery box to keep the wiring simple.

Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller

The award-winning Tow-Pro Elite is suitable for both 12 volt and 24 volt vehicles and is the only brake controller on the market that offers two types of braking options in one dash mounted unit.

redarcelectronics.com

 

[Coug]

The XM381 is pricey but takes all the labor and hassle out of towing 12v civilian equipment. I have a large, heavy Coleman pop-up camper (2700lbs is heavy for a pop-up) that is right on the limits of my Subaru Outback but would probably be a joke for the HMMWV to tow. The pop-up is equipped with electric brakes but I question whether I'd even need to wire them up with the HMMWV.

For trips of 100-300 miles on level ground, the Outback is fine but I want to tow the pop-up to a mountain lake in PA that is well off the highways. It's all winding, secondary roads with steep grades at low speeds and I think the HMMWV would excel at that.

I'd be grateful if you'd post photos of how you wire in the brake controller to the 12v tap on the alternator, and also where you mount the brake controller...just in case I do end up wiring for electric brakes.

I started a thread on the brake controller install with pictures and links, as I figured you aren't the only one that's ever wondered and it's easier to find projects when they have their own threads.

 

[osteo16]

Was changing out the shoes on the wives H2... so I rolled a wheel over and tossed it on the 998.. Not quite big enough

 

[Mogman]

Well I finally got to bring #2 a non runner home today, purchased April 1st and a little MEP-831A with only 0.7Hrs on the clock, no idea why the volt meter has no screws..

 

[Ajax MD]

Some Gillespie paint arrived today. I'll paint our tan troop seats green to match the rest of the truck and touch up a bunch of rusty bits.

My first time using this paint. We'll see what happens...

 

[Coug]

Was on the way back from a local FMTV roundup (other military vehicles welcomed to come, I was the only non-FMTV/LMTV though) and decided to take it across the scales. Local State Patrol turns the computer screen around when the scale is shut down so anyone can weigh their trucks)


So weight of the truck as pictured above, a few miles after stopping at the fuel station to top off the truck fuel tank and trailer tanks (55 gal plus 5 in gen)

Front: 3760 lbs
Rear : 5640 lbs
Trailer: 3560 lbs
Total: 12,900 lbs

Add a bit for me, and I'm just over 13.1k

Fuel economy, mixed driving including some 65mph on the highway, 10mpg.

Of that weight maybe a couple hundred lbs is camping gear and food, 6 5 gallon diesel cans filled, 3 5 gallon water cans filled, 1 5 gallon propane tank.
Trailer tongue weight is in the 200-250 lbs range as I am capable of lifting it by myself if necessary (but only on level ground) so that would be a couple hundred off the truck total weight (9400 according to the scale)

Next weekend when I have it back as a 2 man troop carrier but towing a car trailer I'll weigh it again.

 

[fpchief]

Was on the way back from a local FMTV roundup (other military vehicles welcomed to come, I was the only non-FMTV/LMTV though) and decided to take it across the scales. Local State Patrol turns the computer screen around when the scale is shut down so anyone can weigh their trucks)

View attachment 810696
So weight of the truck as pictured above, a few miles after stopping at the fuel station to top off the truck fuel tank and trailer tanks (55 gal plus 5 in gen)

Front: 3760 lbs
Rear : 5640 lbs
Trailer: 3560 lbs
Total: 12,900 lbs

Add a bit for me, and I'm just over 13.1k

Fuel economy, mixed driving including some 65mph on the highway, 10mpg.

Of that weight maybe a couple hundred lbs is camping gear and food, 6 5 gallon diesel cans filled, 3 5 gallon water cans filled, 1 5 gallon propane tank.
Trailer tongue weight is in the 200-250 lbs range as I am capable of lifting it by myself if necessary (but only on level ground) so that would be a couple hundred off the truck total weight (9400 according to the scale)

Next weekend when I have it back as a 2 man troop carrier but towing a car trailer I'll weigh it again.

How do you get your spare up there?

 

[Coug]

How do you get your spare up there?

I used the bucket of a tractor.

I figure gravity should help with getting it down.

Other method I've used though is lawnmower ramps. One to the front of the hood, then the other up to the rack. Even with as heavy as they are, it's not that bad to roll them up (if you're young enough/dumb enough/in decent physical shape)

 

[TOBASH]

Add a bit for me, and I'm just over 13.1k

REALLY?!?!?!

What are you, a killer whale???

 

[Mogman]

How do you get your spare up there?

I am facing the same issue with my S-788 shelter build, already going to be hauling a MEP-831A up there, I figure if I do put the spare up there I would just roll the bad tire to the fence line, being old I would never be able to get it back up there without the Bobcat or backhoe

Of course many times especially if we are going down Mustang Island I will have the M1101, would probably manage to get it into the trailer.

 

[Mogman]

REALLY?!?!?!

What are you, a killer whale???

Yep 12900 + 200 = 13100

 

[Coug]

REALLY?!?!?!

What are you, a killer whale???

gah, this is just one of the many issues with the English language.

No, I'm not a killer whale, but my coworker in the Army practically was, his last name was only one letter off from a famous Orca whale, so he got called that from time to time.

 

[TOBASH]

I am facing the same issue with my S-788 shelter build, already going to be hauling a MEP-831A up there, I figure if I do put the spare up there I would just roll the bad tire to the fence line, being old I would never be able to get it back up there without the Bobcat or backhoe

Of course many times especially if we are going down Mustang Island I will have the M1101, would probably manage to get it into the trailer.

Looking at the camper box in the HMMWV bed, it looks like there are several points to place a come-along. A collapsible ladder with a skid made from a piece of plywood and you should be able to get that tire up there easy. Even without the camper box, attaching the come-along to the pintle and using the same method should also work.

I would be more concerned dropping the spare from the roof, as if it might hit and take out a mirror or a person or roll out into traffic. I might control it with a rope when throwing it down.

Love the truck, love the camper in the bed (forgot the military alphanumerical code for it.). Love the fact that they allow John-Q-Public to weigh trucks after hours.

Best,

T

 

[Coug]

Looking at the camper box in the HMMWV bed, it looks like there are several points to place a come-along. A collapsible ladder with a skid made from a piece of plywood and you should be able to get that tire up there easy. Even without the camper box, attaching the come-along to the pintle and using the same method should also work.

I would be more concerned dropping the spare from the roof, as if it might hit and take out a mirror or a person or roll out into traffic. I might control it with a rope when throwing it down.

Love the truck, love the camper in the bed (forgot the military alphanumerical code for it.). Love the fact that they allow John-Q-Public to weigh trucks after hours.

Best,

T

I don't think the BEOD has an alphanumeric code for it, there isn't one on the data plate. BEOD = Body, Explosive Ordnance Disposal. They are only used with Army heavy variant HMMWV (M1097 series specifically) so a separate code isn't necessary like the S250 or S788 that can be set up several different ways.

Yeah, It depends entirely where I get a flat and what the traffic and terrain is like (no sense in throwing it off the truck just for it to go down a hill into a lake or something like that).

The BEOD has lift points on the top, so most likely I'd hook a strap to one of them and use it as an anchor/belay point to lower it down. Or I could do it down the back, as the steps on the back are more than trong enough to hold my weight and a tire (1000 lb rated steps)

There are other options as well, depending on what I'm doing or towing, but I don't plan to just drop it if it's not the best option for the situation.