- 333
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- Cleveland,TN
For future reference, the Mile Marker 12000 hydraulic winch works great on the rear mount, motor mounts to the right side and the "factory hoses" reach just fine. Tickled with mine!
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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
M1165A1
Well-known member
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- The High Country, CO
Photos?
- 333
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- Cleveland,TN
I'll see if I can get my tech guy to take and post a few, I'm sure he'll want another raise.
- 2,969
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- Olympia/WA
I'd love a rear winch, but between the Federal Military parts rear 2" receiver and associated braces, and not wanting to lose any ground clearance (I already lost departure angle due to the hitch) I doubt I will ever install one.
I've only ever used my front winch to recover other people, never myself.
For what I've done recently:
Installed the Trucklite LED tailights. Was pretty straight forward to do, but I added difficulty to it by not pulling the light buckets out of the truck first.
Also added a 24V fan to the B pillar next to my head. During summer will aim at me, during winter will aim at the windshield to try to reduce fogging. In the past I just ran the RedDot aircon aimed at it and it did a great job, but running aircon in winter kind of sucks.
Pictures related to the lights install.
Started with this. Had different brand covers on each side.
Replaced brake light bulbs in the past with LEDs as the brake switch doesn't last that great with the incandescent loads on it, or so I've heard.
gotta use a flathead screwdriver to remove the blackout light assembly
That gets you access to two of the screws holding in the assembly.
There are three more screws behind the bottom bulb (which isn't secure to it's base, so it kind of spins and is a pain to remove I'm just pushing it aside in this pic)
All the wiring connectors are behind this cover. 2 screws up from the bottom to pull the cover, then small screws at the ends that hold cable retainers with the wires inside of them. You can see the top of the pic where all the wires go into the light bucket assembly. You have to do them one at a time, and a long screwdriver also helps to push them around, as well as some needle nosed pliers to pull them gently.
Making all the connections. I did have to cut off the ground wire to the housing bucket and put a new end on it because the LED has 5 wires, the old assembly had 4 plus one wire to the ground bolt.
After that was just some dielectric grease on all the connections and closing everything up. Lights work great, but stick out just slightly further than the original covers did (no pics of this)
Only issue I came across was having to take the bolts from the old covers for the new ones. They have a little wire retainer wrapped around them that had to be removed to pull the screws out. The new covers did not have screws.
Part number for the light I used is 07240
NSN: 6220-01-482-9850 Thin Lamp, Green
And then a picture of the fan installed. A couple holes drilled and rivnuts installed, and a couple Posi-tap connectors into the Red Dot wiring gave me a working fan. As mentioned before, either aims at my head or forward to the windshield. It's a little loud, but not worse than anything else in the truck.
I'm running out of room in the cab for storage. Everything is bolted down securely except the first aid kit soft bag and a couple little things.
I've only ever used my front winch to recover other people, never myself.
For what I've done recently:
Installed the Trucklite LED tailights. Was pretty straight forward to do, but I added difficulty to it by not pulling the light buckets out of the truck first.
Also added a 24V fan to the B pillar next to my head. During summer will aim at me, during winter will aim at the windshield to try to reduce fogging. In the past I just ran the RedDot aircon aimed at it and it did a great job, but running aircon in winter kind of sucks.
Pictures related to the lights install.
Started with this. Had different brand covers on each side.
Replaced brake light bulbs in the past with LEDs as the brake switch doesn't last that great with the incandescent loads on it, or so I've heard.
gotta use a flathead screwdriver to remove the blackout light assembly
That gets you access to two of the screws holding in the assembly.
There are three more screws behind the bottom bulb (which isn't secure to it's base, so it kind of spins and is a pain to remove I'm just pushing it aside in this pic)
All the wiring connectors are behind this cover. 2 screws up from the bottom to pull the cover, then small screws at the ends that hold cable retainers with the wires inside of them. You can see the top of the pic where all the wires go into the light bucket assembly. You have to do them one at a time, and a long screwdriver also helps to push them around, as well as some needle nosed pliers to pull them gently.
Making all the connections. I did have to cut off the ground wire to the housing bucket and put a new end on it because the LED has 5 wires, the old assembly had 4 plus one wire to the ground bolt.
After that was just some dielectric grease on all the connections and closing everything up. Lights work great, but stick out just slightly further than the original covers did (no pics of this)
Only issue I came across was having to take the bolts from the old covers for the new ones. They have a little wire retainer wrapped around them that had to be removed to pull the screws out. The new covers did not have screws.
Part number for the light I used is 07240
NSN: 6220-01-482-9850 Thin Lamp, Green
And then a picture of the fan installed. A couple holes drilled and rivnuts installed, and a couple Posi-tap connectors into the Red Dot wiring gave me a working fan. As mentioned before, either aims at my head or forward to the windshield. It's a little loud, but not worse than anything else in the truck.
I'm running out of room in the cab for storage. Everything is bolted down securely except the first aid kit soft bag and a couple little things.
Last edited:
- 475
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- AL
Replaced my offset antenna mounts for more correct Harris mounts.
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- Papalote, TX
I would be a little nervous with that drier right next to my face
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- Brooklyn, NY
You afraid of hurtin your face boy? That’s ’cause you’re so perty. Like Ned Beatty in Deliverance.
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I have another chair in the corner beside mine, should I pencile your name on it??? (The coffee is BLACK RIFLE)You afraid of hurtin your face boy? That’s ’cause you’re so perty. Like Ned Beatty in Deliverance.
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- Olympia/WA
It does get a little warm.
I was licensed to haul hazmat/ammo in the army so explosives near me don't worry me that much.
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- W.WA
New shoes.
Method 105 17x8.5 + Yokohama Geolander MT 37x12.5R17. Both were cheaper than replacing the tires alone, in the stock size. They are a little bigger than stock.
![IMG_20230809_203314[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/658/658652-9398bb6bce4825c530e3a12d0b10ef70.jpg "IMG_20230809_203314[1].jpg")
It's mostly for off-road use.
Method 105 17x8.5 + Yokohama Geolander MT 37x12.5R17. Both were cheaper than replacing the tires alone, in the stock size. They are a little bigger than stock.
It's mostly for off-road use.
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- Evansville, IN
where do you sit
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- Olympia/WA
Close to the steering wheel.where do you sit
I have short legs.
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- Quantico VA
Doing a Trans TC swap? I'm dong that soon. BDGR
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- Mansfield, PA
Started the process of changing tires on a spare set of wheels that I bought earlier this year. I've watched YouTube videos and read posts about the process. I was very happy with the first removal as the tie down and chain hook are captured and nothing can go flying like I've seen when the cherry picker technique is used. The run flat removal was also very controlled with the chain fall.
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Put these backup lights in the existing holes in the bracing behind the bumper - no drilling.
They are 24v white floods and the sides are amber strobes, each controlled by a separate relay in the battery box, fused of course.
The toggle switch is ON-OFF-ON style - up for amber strobes and down for white floods.
The light next to the switch only tells switch position and serves to remind me to turn it off when I'm done.
The switch, wire, and indicator lights are all out of my hoard. The red and amber indicator lights I've had since.... wait for it.... high school in 1981. Yes, a friend had a night job in some factory and snagged a bunch of cool panel lights, 24v no less, and I still have them. No, don't make me do the math.... yeah, 41 years...
They are 24v white floods and the sides are amber strobes, each controlled by a separate relay in the battery box, fused of course.
The toggle switch is ON-OFF-ON style - up for amber strobes and down for white floods.
The light next to the switch only tells switch position and serves to remind me to turn it off when I'm done.
The switch, wire, and indicator lights are all out of my hoard. The red and amber indicator lights I've had since.... wait for it.... high school in 1981. Yes, a friend had a night job in some factory and snagged a bunch of cool panel lights, 24v no less, and I still have them. No, don't make me do the math.... yeah, 41 years...
M1165A1
Well-known member
- 413
- 859
- 93
- Location
- The High Country, CO
Continued the winch install.
As posted above, the winch plate mounting holes were significantly oversized compared to the corresponding mounting holes on the winch itself. In the photo below, the winch is yellow so you can see clearly the disparity:
Got in touch with a machinist on ebay named extsw1 who makes spacers and I spec'd out a custom adapter. Turnaround was excellent, received the parts in a jiff:
The spacers filled the hole beautifully, tolerance was very tight:
Spacers likewise fit perfectly on the M10 screws supplied by Sherpa, making a nice shoulder:
Tightened up the winch and mounting plate, so thoroughly snug:
Of course it's one step forward, two back. The electrical cables supplied by Sherpa are too short to reach even the starter on the HMMWV. So I am ordering some new cables which I will run to the battery. And since I now have this longer run I will take the opportunity to add a 500 A disconnect to keep the power off the winch cables when not in use. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to whether to put the disconnect on the hot or ground side, I am leaning towards the hot side.
And: obligatory picture of sunset after a few hours work completed:
As posted above, the winch plate mounting holes were significantly oversized compared to the corresponding mounting holes on the winch itself. In the photo below, the winch is yellow so you can see clearly the disparity:
Got in touch with a machinist on ebay named extsw1 who makes spacers and I spec'd out a custom adapter. Turnaround was excellent, received the parts in a jiff:
The spacers filled the hole beautifully, tolerance was very tight:
Spacers likewise fit perfectly on the M10 screws supplied by Sherpa, making a nice shoulder:
Tightened up the winch and mounting plate, so thoroughly snug:
Of course it's one step forward, two back. The electrical cables supplied by Sherpa are too short to reach even the starter on the HMMWV. So I am ordering some new cables which I will run to the battery. And since I now have this longer run I will take the opportunity to add a 500 A disconnect to keep the power off the winch cables when not in use. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to whether to put the disconnect on the hot or ground side, I am leaning towards the hot side.
And: obligatory picture of sunset after a few hours work completed:
- 585
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- Evansville, IN
Chicken... engine hoist worked fine..
Autonomy_Lost
Well-known member
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- Pennsylvania
You should lift the positive side for a disconnect. If you lift the ground, the winch will likely still "find" a ground through the chassis somewhere, so it wont be fully disconnected.
- 2,969
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- Olympia/WA
Ground disconnect if you are killing all power to the vehicle.
Hot side disconnect if you are using it as a power switch for the item, same as any other hot electrical circuit you want to turn off.
For my winch I put a breaker on the hot side. Some people say yes, others say no when it comes to winches and breakers, but I've always put some type of thermal disconnect (fuse or breaker) on every hot wire I add to an electrical system.
Hot side disconnect if you are using it as a power switch for the item, same as any other hot electrical circuit you want to turn off.
For my winch I put a breaker on the hot side. Some people say yes, others say no when it comes to winches and breakers, but I've always put some type of thermal disconnect (fuse or breaker) on every hot wire I add to an electrical system.
M1165A1
Well-known member
- 413
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- The High Country, CO
Thanks for your view. That bit on hot for the disconnect is what I would have done too but it seems a number of 4WD sites say negative. I am going to disregard that nonsense as internet stupidity.
And I am in the camp of "no" on breaker or fuse. With potentially a 500 A load at peak, I feel like I will trip the fuse/breaker no matter what happens.