Bravo2Uniform
Member
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- McMinnville, TN
lmbo!good thing you didn't buy the bavarian gnome premium primer:
- that stuff is made out of children's feathers and eagle tears and is even more expensive.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your JEEP today
- Thread starter zout
- Start date
- 622
- 53
- 28
- Location
- Attleboro, MA
Ours wasn't too bad, we took our time(kinda) and picked up items at good prices, even used works!
The Air Cleaner is what gets me, now that was EXPENSIVE for what it is and how it's made!
- 622
- 53
- 28
- Location
- Attleboro, MA
Son installed the new Canvas Top!
Saberr
Active member
- 185
- 84
- 28
- Location
- Temecula,Ca
Installed 4 new shocks, hasn't had new shocks since around 1970s. Also finished refurbishing my whole wire harness 
.
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Another Ahab
Well-known member
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- Alexandria, VA
Those are just two short sentences, but for so few words that sounds like a lot of work.
Bravo2Uniform
Member
- 253
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- 18
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- McMinnville, TN
That's a lot of work! You are blowin' and goin'!Installed 4 new shocks, hasn't had new shocks since around 1970s. Also finished refurbishing my whole wire harness
Saberr
Active member
- 185
- 84
- 28
- Location
- Temecula,Ca
Thx, it was a lot of work. Tomorrow i start on tearing down and rebuilding the engine. Nice having a harness that bends and doesn't crackle, snap, and pop, and no torn connectors
Bravo2Uniform
Member
- 253
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- McMinnville, TN
Prime Time!
Two coats of primer done and one to go...
Two coats of primer done and one to go...
Saberr
Active member
- 185
- 84
- 28
- Location
- Temecula,Ca
rattle can primer ? if so then DANG, your finger must hurt ! LOok s good.
Another Ahab
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It looks real good. ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
My schooling was "one coat primer plus two coats finish".
Curious, just never heard of it before, but where did you get the idea for two coats of primer?
My schooling was "one coat primer plus two coats finish".
Curious, just never heard of it before, but where did you get the idea for two coats of primer?
Bravo2Uniform
Member
- 253
- 21
- 18
- Location
- McMinnville, TN
Your schoolin' may be correct! A friend of mine told me the process is: bondo on bare metal, first coat of primer, glazing. 2nd coat of primer, final glazing, and then one last coat of primer. Of course, in retrospect, heis finishes are for cars so that's probably too much for the Willys. I'm skipping the last step and just priming the few spots I had to glaze.It looks real good.
My schooling was "one coat primer plus two coats finish".
Curious, just never heard of it before, but where did you get the idea for two coats of primer?
I think two coats of finish is about right.
Good catch.
- 7,744
- 154
- 63
- Location
- Columbus Georgia
so you know I am not screwing off after starting this thread - check out the project:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151375-Project-time-again-at-Zouts
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151375-Project-time-again-at-Zouts
Another Ahab
Well-known member
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- Alexandria, VA
I honestly wasn't trying to "catch" anything; just figured you might know something that I don't (and I don't claim to know much). It seems like a wasted day if I don't learn at least one thing that's new!
DeetFreek
Well-known member
- 219
- 351
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- Location
- New Sharon IA
I wish I could get that lucky and find some numbers on mine. It appears the outer side of the hood was stripped but they left the inside alone.
just me
Member
- 322
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- 18
- Location
- phoenix,az
I spilled a smoothie and it ran under the fuel tank in the m38. So, instead of working on sewing up a summer top, I was pulling the seat, tank and floorboards to clean up my mess. Drat!
Amer-team
Well-known member
- 1,707
- 32
- 48
- Location
- Centralia/WA
DF you should be able to search some of the threads and see what some of the rest of us have for dates and numbers and come up with a reasonable hood number. My M38A1 is 12/53 manufacture, ser. no. 68014, and hood number
20997729. I have owned this jeep for 30 years and it is original, not restored.
The pictures are from 4 JULY this year.
20997729. I have owned this jeep for 30 years and it is original, not restored.
The pictures are from 4 JULY this year.
Attachments
Bravo2Uniform
Member
- 253
- 21
- 18
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- McMinnville, TN
Work, work, work!
It's killing me! It's the busy season in construction and I haven't had a spare minute to even check out Steel Soldiers much less work on the Willys. Life is way too short for this!
It's killing me! It's the busy season in construction and I haven't had a spare minute to even check out Steel Soldiers much less work on the Willys. Life is way too short for this!
Another Ahab
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Bravo2Uniform
Member
- 253
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- McMinnville, TN
Un-welding the pintle hitch plate
I had not intended on replacing the rear cross member on the Willys, but it looked so raggedy and really detracted from the overall aesthetics of the restoration.
I ordered a new cross member and related parts and all was well until I realized that parts of the old crossmember were not on riveted on but also welded onto the frame. The presented a little bit of a problem as I have an un-riveter (grinder) but no un-welder (torches). I called a welding service and priced having a craftsman come to my house and torch the pintle hitch plate off. Basically the welding service told me that it would cost $ 100 for him to just come out and stroke his chin while he quoted me a price for the work itself. So, like so many tasks in restoring this Willys, I had to improvise. I got out my grinder and went to work. I thought to myself, "I'll either fix it or fix it so it can't be fixed."
Just a little bit of clean up with the grinder and I will be ready to learn how to rivet a cross member back on!
I had not intended on replacing the rear cross member on the Willys, but it looked so raggedy and really detracted from the overall aesthetics of the restoration.
I ordered a new cross member and related parts and all was well until I realized that parts of the old crossmember were not on riveted on but also welded onto the frame. The presented a little bit of a problem as I have an un-riveter (grinder) but no un-welder (torches). I called a welding service and priced having a craftsman come to my house and torch the pintle hitch plate off. Basically the welding service told me that it would cost $ 100 for him to just come out and stroke his chin while he quoted me a price for the work itself. So, like so many tasks in restoring this Willys, I had to improvise. I got out my grinder and went to work. I thought to myself, "I'll either fix it or fix it so it can't be fixed."
Just a little bit of clean up with the grinder and I will be ready to learn how to rivet a cross member back on!
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,993
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That's not always as bad as it sounds; it's typical that the shop will waive that $100 "quote fee" if you agree to the quote given and have the work done there-and-then.
It's just a way for the shop not to kill a lot of their time driving all over the place giving quotes to people who will never give the shop any work. It's usually the way they cover all the gas-and-time they burn making their quotes.
You might ask them.