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Ok so I checked the voltage at the plug (while unplugged) of drivers side alt and got 12.5 volts(when engine is off and on).
Checked voltage with postive lead on large red wire on back of drivers side alt and negative lead on front battery (-) post I'm getting 25 Volts (with engine off and on)...
I was getting the same 12.5 at the front battery that I got when the engine was not running. Just to confirm, the next step I should take is to put the positive lead from my multimeter on the drivers side alt with the negative lead on the front battery negative post? What voltage should I be...
Multimeter is reading 12.5-12.7 on both batteries
Gen 2 post is reading 25.5
Gen 1 post is also reading 25.5 (thought it was supposed to be 12?)
Gen 1 light stays on very bright, Voltmeter in truck stays in yellow.
any ideas on what is wrong here?
Funny enough the same exact thing happened to me before, starter cranking as i was hooking up the terminals... sparks and smoke were involved too haha... ended up being that the starter cable (where it connects to the starter) wasn't tightened enough and shifted consequently touching the block...
Yeah thats what I thought too, the existing ground is the one connected to the relay am I right? Doing the doghead conversion and making sure everything is solid should fix the problem...which is why I was doing it. I am pretty noob when it comes to electrical so figured i should ask just in case.
I recently ordered a 24 volt starter online, slapped it in thinking my problems were over. (had to deal with a shop giving me 12 volt starters and saying they were 24 volt starters, they actually stated "all diesel starters are 24 volts", and soon after I confronted them with somewhat of an...
Great, yeah I replaced the relays and the fusible link. Now the gen 2 light and voltmeter are back in action but still not starting. Think I need a new starter.
Well I got the relays and a new fusible link, this one doesn't have the plastic tube on it tho... I'm assuming I just cut out the plastic from the original and splice this one in between. Hopefully this works.
The bottom most fuse is fine. The wire labeled 16 is a fusable link?thought it was but I was confused, Is the fuse sealed inside the plastic? Thought I should be able to access said fuse in link...sorry my electrical knowledge is not great.
Went to the junkyard and was lucky enough to find a few things I was looking for, get in the truck and it barely starts to turn over when suddenly it stops. I tried to start it again only to see a bunch of smoke coming from the bus bar, a small red wire with a black plastic tube on it numbered...
I can't find starter rebuild kit specifically for the 24 volt starter, anyone think that the rebuild kit for a 12 volt is any different than the one for the 24? I would think that because both a 12 and 24 would fit and function (at least until the 12 volt goes out from too much power) that a 12...
Its more of a greyish colored smoke, I've used diesel kleen a few times in the last couple of months and fill the tank at least once a week as it is almost a daily driver. I'm gonna change out the filter today and already bought some carb cleaner in case the clear bead in the IP inlet is dirty...
Hopped in the CUCV today and it started up just fine but when I tried driving up my street (which is a somewhat steep hill) it moved like a snail... I Floored it and still it hardly moved. Once I got on a normal street without any incline I was able to keep up with traffic but when I try to...