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Do your front tires still have the counter weights? If so remove them as they are to counter balance for the CTIS. No CTIS means remove the weights too.

Now I need to go check my M931A2 and see what plate it has.

Looks like a pintle lock pin. But that wouldn't be from your M1101.

I got about 6" in Utah. But a foot + is not unusual here.

When they get into civilian hands they all weigh 69. LOL

What will be funny is when those untrained drivers in HMMWVs and M923s get them stuck. That big snow storm that is going on back east is just a winter storm in Utah. Heck, I would still have to go to work and the schools will be opened.

I drive wreckers. Here in my area anyway they would send out two wreckers, one for the truck and one for the trailer. But that is here.

I don't think there are any restrictions. I'll check and see where they are having the armored glass come from.

I know where an M923A1 with that armor kit is in private hands. They are replacing the delaminated armored glass and I get a couple of the bad pieces for ballistics testing. When it gets warm again we will test from 5.56 to .50

The one I had did have 9.00X20s on Deuce wheels.

10Wt engine oil. Or you can flush it clear and replace with P/S fluid, hydraulic fluid, on Dexron/Mercon trans fluid. I have chosen to stay with the 10wt as that is what is also in my transmission. It is really a matter of your own preference.

Here in Utah if a trailer is built with brakes (electric, surge, or air) and they are disable, removed or modified the trailer is no longer legal for road use. I am sure many states are the same and that's not even taking into account Federal DOT regulations that pertain to trailer braking systems.

I'm with jpg on this one. I would never recommend the removal of a braking system on any trailer that is equipped with them. Those brakes WILL save your back side some day. Your mod should have kept the surge brakes. I hope it doesn't cost you or one of your friends in the end.

Boyce Equipment in Utah will usually do that trade.

It isn't very hard to completely remove it and fold it up and put it in the bed then remove the front and side racks and lay them in on top. That will reduce the drag profile as much as you can get.

Looks like the insulator/pivot (the part wit grease fitting) has gone bad.

For the money the ones in Utah close at, I'll stay with 5 tons and trailers.

PM me and I'll get you my Phone #.

In Utah if the trailer is older than 25 years it can be sold and transferred on a "Bill of Sale" but if it is newer it needs to be titled. FYI

I could but I question the front steer axle. The angle of those wheels make me wonder if it is going to tow OK or loose a set of wheels. Anybody know if those tire caster angles are normal?