Search results

IIRC the last 10psi was achieved by the updated pressure transducer, different resistance???, I’m guessing we discussed this earlier in this thread. I should still have a couple NOS around here, if needed I could make you a decent deal on one. I think I still need to get one 74m one as well.

You just have to look behind the hens lips[emoji6]

Anyone need me to load any big shackles before I head out for Findlay this evening? All prices each and will trade especially junk I need. Qty 5 35ton 2" $100 each 1 40? Ton 2-1/4" $125 3 50 ton 2-1/2” $150 2 55 ton 2-1/2” $150 2 85?Ton 3" keeper pin type...

No chance any of the 5 ton rims are combat wheels for singles is there?

I have a pair of rail tongs, if you guys have any interest?

I’m looking for a set of troop seats for my m925a2 5 ton, I believe m35 seats will work as well. Also looking for some good sized camo netting, and convoy lights.

I would think exhaust brake would work well enough without locking the converter, especially if he’s running low range. With our weight and gear ratios I don’t think a pinion brake would last more than one application, unless you ran a half dozen or so to keep the pressure down on them. I’m...

Pacbrake is probably the most common exhaust brake, a lot of info on them in the rv forums. I believe you will need heavier valve springs as well, which I was planning on going to one of these day if I turn my governed RPM up quite a bit.

Oof… need to check and make sure all this wording is actually in the code book Maa, and that the inspector is not adding anything.

Also, not sure how the loader would fit into your violations, “Vehicle”? Guessing they have a regulation that it needs to be inside though. I have a nice spot for it, my friend.

If I’m reading correctly, that only applies to “commercial” vehicles rated over 3/4 ton, so probably not applicable to you. I think “rated over 3/4 ton” would be very grey, I’m guessing about every truck on the road today has a carrying capacity over 3/4 ton. I didn’t notice anything about...

Your drag-link looks fairly long, just for ideas… M939a2 right at 20” long. Also, my box does sit better than half way above the frame with a gusseted piece of angle on top of the frame, as well as a crossmember directly behind, inside the frame.

HEMTT wheel… helps a bit over a combat wheel. Yes, move the steering box straight back as far back as you can still make your input shaft work. Also clock your pitman arm counter clockwise so that it’s 90 degrees to the drag-link while wheels are straight.

Don’t forget to vote in the midterm’s.

Wait a minute, what truck are we talking about? I thought it was a T1138 in an M939 series, I think the singles on the truck in the picture must have thrown me off.

I’m not sure you’ll have to check. Someone had a good post on the shimming a few years ago, but I could not find it in a quick search, if you have no luck let me know I will try to dig harder. On another thought if you’re feeling movement in your shifter, where your transfer case mount bushings...

Check all your bearings and make sure the preload on the shafts is correct. I’m betting the shaft was slopping back and forth.

Every decent block I own, or have seen labeled, has a 1/8 range in cable size. I have 3/8-1/2” blocks, as well as 1/2-5/8” blocks but they are all quality named, lifting blocks. Only in a pinch, would I recommend going with a little smaller than rated cable for block, but not bigger..

The problem with replacing tires is that you will never recover your cost in fuel savings. Drive and enjoy your truck as much as you can afford, when your tires “need” replaced, then it may be worth evaluating a better replacement.

Nope…