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The picture is kind of deceiving, but if you look close it does appear to be a rear can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like the batteries are wired wrong.

I’m not 100% sure what were looking at, an ez-out with a drill bit broke off in it? With the spring warnings taken care of, I’d pull the can apart and knock the ez-out out from the inside, heat the broken fitting allow to cool and try again.

Depending on your pressure, and if you need to use the brakes you may be able to make 15 miles. Just be mindful that when you get around 40 psi your brakes are gonna start to drag and eventually lock up so you need to find a safe place to get off the road.

Looks these are not AGM’s, If I’m reading his tag tag correctly? Yeh, I probably use more electricity on my chargers than it would cost for new batteries at times[emoji6]. I ended up going with 4D’s to match my Cat loaders batteries. These where heavy enough, just pictures of 8D’s make my back...

Aren’t those AGM batteries? I thought most people where getting well over 5 years out of them. Are you running your Noco on the correct setting? There’s several threads around on a process for bringing AGM’s back with good success. I mixed and matched two sets (8) of 2012 flooded batteries and...

Yep, I see about 30 at idle and 65 at 2100.

Back of the cab to trunion would be the measurement to check. If it’s nof at least 7’ you may need to block the bed up to keep the tires out of the crossmembers during articulation.

PM sent with solenoid wiring pics

Normal for an A2. The torque converter does not lock up when taking off, what you’re experiencing is the turbo spooling. The reason you don’t feel it in reverse is because reverse is so much lower geared.

Yep, drill the rivets and do it right. If you have or have access to a mag drill and annular cutters, pull the center pin, center on the rivet, and start slow. Unless you work your truck to the max, and you have 2/3 of the material remaining after blasting it clean, seal it up, and call it good.

I don’t know how hot, how long it takes to toast the motor, but I no longer get too concerned until around 1300 for any period of time. I can hit 1200 empty, running hard from a stop, but my truck has always run very well the way I got it, see post #3.

I would recommend a good, heavy, short two axle dump trailer with surge brakes. Most of those truck frame trailers can get quite unruly with just a little weight.

Just unplug the cannon plug on the back of the ctis controller , that will eliminate it from the equation, but if all five lights are flashing it’s not causing your air pressure problem.

Run-off thread? Ahhh crap, I already burned my vehicle...

Looks like I wont make the fall meet again, always seems to get busy in a hurry this time of year. But as always, if anyone gets in a real jam let me know and I can bring a trailer or whatever to get your vehicle out of there, big or small.

Most likely Sand trails, only rated at 35psi, you wont want to run them on your truck on the road.

Screw under my finger in post 13has since been molested.

All you need to do is drive forward until you hear the noise, stop, exit the vehicle and watch the tire go flat. The split sidewall will be between the wheel and the ground. The offending tire will most likely already be flat next time you go out to the truck though.