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So, with the u-bolt nut broke off, was the axle still secure, or was it shifting around? If moving around I would say that broke the cylinder, if not I would guess just stressed from the road conditions, and finally let go with a large impact to that tire. I’ve always wondered... How big of a...

You can usually rock the motor back and forth and get an idea how sloppy the timing chain is by watching the rotor button. Also, trying to time a distributor if the vale timing is out is going to be a futile effort.

Did you ever figure out what was causing your problem?

Try pulling the turn bulbs out one at a time and see if the feedback problem fixes itself with either bulb out. If so make sure it is the correct bulb and is oriented in the socket correctly.

20 Qts according to my plate

I would do a compression check, possibly cooked some pistons at altitude. Also, feed directly from a fuel can strapped to the roof to the carb, to eliminate tank/pump problems. Check timing chain and gears. Lastly throw a new complete distributor in it before paying 2k to have it towed. Or a...

QR valves are fairly standard and common other than port size/thread. You may be able to take yours to a good NAPA or truck stop garage and match up the threads for a lot less $. Some people have also had luck taping threads into the unthreaded port on cheaper valves.

Quick release valve. Should not have air on it except when the the CTIS is airing up or down, unless you have a wheel vale leaking on that axle, but in any case air should not be coming out anywhere except the rubber duckbill vent on it while the CTIS is airing down.

Sorry, still cant figure out how to post links in Tapatalk...

This wheel is in the rear position, but will give you the same idea. You need to remove your ctis cover/guard, then unscrew the hose end I have circled in red. If there is a vale core in the stem under it, you need to remove the core then reattach the hose without it, in order to be able to...

Someone has instaled valve cores in the valve stems on the outside, under the wheel valve hose, these need to be removed before the ctis, or wheel valve stems can be used. You can use the valve stems on the inside of the front wheels as normal, but they are hard to get to with the brake drums.

Yep, works fantastic, especially in the hills. I use it manually a lot more than I thought I would. Yeh well... there is the overheating after “playing” for more than 5 hrs! I have another one I’ll give you, when you get finished putting your motor in...

Sounds like an excellent idea! Darwinism...

Hopefully get a truck on super singles, air down to 10psi, double up a good strong chain as short as possible so it picks the front of the box up, and drag it to the road.

I was thinking a half moon welded underneath each end by the installer to help with spread and shearing of the bolts, would make a tighter custom fit for variances between different cases and caps. Also the photos are not mine. From another thread around here someplace. Thinking Wes posted them...

My thought for at least the front side of the case, if someone with access to a burning table and machining capabilities could make a girdle to bolt on over the caps for the shafts. Should be fairly simple to make and install as well as quite marketable.

Remove or trim the washer so the front axle switch does not auto engage when you put the transfer-case in low range. Supposedly helps prevent transfer-case breakage. I trimmed mine quite some time ago, not sure what the thinking was making the front auto engage in low range was in the first...

Looks like two different customers junk has went to lunch at the same time, and need to upgrade. Think M715mike has 8.3, Mullaney looks to have something else. Assuming 855?

Think they are 1200cca each.

Two 4D’s all most as much lead as the four 6tls for a whole lot less $$$