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“A” is big at 1.288, compared to 1.225 of my stock accuride wheels.
“B” is small at 1.33, compared to 1.5 of my stock accuride wheels.
The nuts that I’m using off a M939a2 measure 1.26 at the start of the taper, so yes they will seat, but I don’t think that small of a bearing surface is a great...
I just received a couple of MRAP to 2-1/2 ton adapter plates from Western Canadian Rockwell and was a little surprised at the chamfer (or lack there of) in the lug holes. Do I have a problem? What say’s the horde?
I would try my best to go over the hitch instead of under, for any real off road use.
Any chance you can use your jackshaft that was between your axles, to get you to the rear of the truck, minus one of the drive flanges, so you can use that on your trailer axle flange. Probably a lot of jack...
I resemble that remark... I think that was the Italians problem with that bus. I’ll bet we have more redneck engineers on this website than they do in their entire country.
So the big problem with the bus, that wouldn’t typically apply to us, is when the trailer is driven, but not the truck, I could see that needing the fancy stabilization. Probably would have been better to flip flop the electric and diesel drive positions, I would imaging a lot less turning in...
I really have no idea, this is one thing I still need to do yet also. I was always under the impression the military used motor oil. I just wanted to make sure you knew what you where buying, sounds like you do. Hopefully someone else can clarify.
Be careful with the TO-4, thats what I run in my track loader. I believe it’s Cat specific, and if I remember correctly they run a strange chemistry compared to other manufactures. I would think NAPA should be able to get you plain 10w motor oil, detergent or non?
I’ve always thought about...
Hey Toby, I think you play with hydraulics a lot?
I’ve asked several times in threads about mounting a pump on the trucks pinion and an appropriate sized motor on the trailer pinion. Basically a high pressure closed loop system running 1:1 with maybe an adjustable inline relief to keep from...
I’m all in, been on my list of to do’s, as soon as I find a donor for the trailer, or if bringing my parts truck back to life doesn’t work out. Should be a piece of cake, plan on using a double ended PTO shaft, so I can pull it out when not needed/wanted. I can run equipment behind the tractor...
Does it die if you shift to reverse? Try putting it in gear run the RPM up a little, then slowly pull the brake up and see if it starts to lug the engine hard. Or just take some more parts off...
Not sure why this truck scares everyone so bad, ever see an F450 rollback with a wheel lift on the back? Guess Jerrdan needs saved from themself as well...
Yep, I think you’re pulling the wrong valve cores. The five that loose air when you pull the valve core out of the wheel valve should be good. The one that is not losing air, unless the tire has no air to loose, may have a valve core installed in the valve stem of the wheel, that the CTIS hose...
Hey Toby,
Just more food for thought... If ride quality is one of your main priority’s, and you don’t have your spring hangers mounted yet. Look into a set of 64” Chevy springs, maybe with a couple of your longest M105 springs under them, and or adjust the angle your adding to the frame up or...
I would keep them. The difference in the beads staying seated in a blowout vs the tire possibly wrapping up around the axle, or rolling off the outside into oncoming traffic is worth the small effort of swapping the bead locks in my opinion.
Hey Toby, whats your transfer case output angle? Letssleds guy was most likely talking about no more than 3 degrees deviation from end to end of shaft. In other words, you want your transfer case shaft and pinion as parallel as possible, at ride height.
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