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That amount of wood would heat my house for at least 2 years!

It looks good enough to drive... I drove my HEMTT from LA to CA, over 1,700 miles. After all expenses - food and motels for myself and friends, fuel, chase vehicle, the total cost was less than 1/5 the lowest shipping quote I got. Jon

The goats are awesome and beautifully restored, but I'm in love with MigginsBros' FUG. That is the most useful thing I have ever seen! Jon

The biggest difference is the HEMTT cab has a radiator air inlet cut-out in the back, the MK48 does not.

I would replace those doors rather than waste time repairing that cancer... Jon

Ah ha, I didn't know that... Maybe that's the reason they're like 10x the cost of starting fluid!

I used to be staunchly "anti-ether", but I like the Quick-Start system on my HEMTT. The procedure is a little different... You do it before cranking, not during. Push the button on the dash for 1 second, and when you release it, it puts 2cc of ether into the air intake pipe. You're supposed to...

Honestly, I'm not 100% sure I trust the current official DD coolant approval... Is it some modern extended life stuff for the Series 60? That's one reason I hadn't done any real research yet, I was going to read up or post on the "Detroit Diesel Engines - Two Strokers" Yahoo Group, where there...

Radiator NSN is 2930-01-132-0978 and the part number on mine is 816A. http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/haystack?nsn=2930011320978

Fortunately nobody was killed. The negative press would be much more negative and possibly make national news if there was a fatality. As it is I'd be surprised if it made any waves outside the local region, so hopefully we can be thankful for that. Such stupidity can also be an effective wake...

Mine had the classic green stuff in it. I didn't test it, but I replaced it when I got home from my recovery trip and put in green Prestone and SCAs. Personally, after some of the trouble I've heard about extended life coolants eating gaskets in older engines, I plan to stick with the old style...

Related to Doghead's rubber fuel line suggestion is the tank switching valve and/or primer pump... Either one may be allowing little bubbles of air to enter the fuel lines which can stall the engine. The valve can be rebuilt by replacing the o-rings inside, there's a thread on it here somewhere...

I just saw your last post... If the whole housing is full of sludge that isn't coming out with thinners, I think I'd take the winch apart to clean it thoroughly and refer to the TM as to how to measure the gear for wear to make sure it's still okay. Over a period of years, the oil could have...

I would say you're right about the oil... That's why gear oil for manual transmissions needs the MT-1, 'synchro-safe' or 'yellow metal safe' rating, or whatever the European equivalent is. Put regular gear oil in there and it will attack the brass. The black coating is the sulphur in the gear...

I was surprised how poorly MM Oil performed in those tests, I used to put it in my old fuel injected Mercedes to keep the IP lubed... For that maybe it would perform better as I'm sure it's lubricity is better than gasoline, though probably still not as good as 2-stroke oil. I use 2-stroke oil...

Just FYI, Marvel Mystery Oil has been tested and shown to cause more wear to the fuel system than plain diesel fuel. The best lubricity / lowest wear and cleanest fuel system possible was achieved with straight biodiesel...

My Oshkosh manual for the 55000 series transfer cases shows 50-weight motor oil with a certain specification, I can't remember the number now, but I've posted it here in the past.

I have one of these, a Morse model 92 drum lifter. They're not cheap, but I got lucky and got one basically for free in an industrial auction lot of misc. crap. Jon

Another advantage of the 6v53 is the higher RPM, usually 2,800-3,000 compared to 2,100 for the 8v71. Jon

I hear ya... I knew I wanted to switch but I was worried about making the transition as you are. That's why I bought the new spare transmission in the can. I'd hate to push my advice and have it fail on you. Have you read the factory Allison operator's manual? That's another factor that heavily...