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I'd like to try one in my 14' Chevy Step Van!

Based on my two Deuces, the smoke looks normal to me.

Nice work on your setup. Might be okay if you don't use much oil & if you have a lot of time. I started out using gravity feed through bag filters. When oil is warm & filter is new, it works pretty well. But once the filter gets a little dirty, and/or the oil gets cooler, it's just way too...

I coated the shaft with anti-seize compound, since I had it on hand. Moly grease would probably work too.

When I flipped mine, it took a LOT of heat, PB Blaster, & a 3 pound hammer.

I had to replace a bad "O" ring in one of my wheels. Got the ring from Memphis. It was a lot of work, but not terrible. I have an old forklift which helped a lot. The beadlock was a pain too, but I'd do it again before I'd pay someone else.

Do you know whether modern GL-5/MT-1 is compatible with the GL1 currently in a Deuce trans? Seems like someone said they shouldn't be mixed.

Good ideas! What micron rating are you using for the secondaries?

I have only run 25 percent WMO so far, & only about 500 miles. But with fuel prices going up, I'll add more this summer.

I see what you mean, Bjorn. In my chemical shelter trailer, the generator & Paxton blower are belt-driven, so removing the engine only shouldn't be a big deal.

Very nice design! Only thing wrong is that it gives me more "ideas", and I sure don't need another project!

First thing I would check for is a bad ground connection. I suspect the majority of problems in automotive electrical systems are caused by a poor ground.

I've been told that the only SEABEE trucks or equipment left behind were truly junk. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of US Army equipment was left, simply because they had so much over there.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, it's just too hard on my back trying to work on that engine while it's in the shelter trailer. Looks like I should just pull the whole thing & put it on a work bench. I'd be much better off. Good idea. Thanks!

Bjorn, Keep the info coming please? I really need to work on mine again when the weather gets better, & by then you should know EVERYTHING about these engines! Eric

Gallon of DOT 5 just went for $63 with shipping on ebay!

I will be working on mine again when the weather warms up. Assuming that it will, of course. I appreciate all the useful info this thread has generated.

I have had a 1970 & a 1973 deuce. Both had rust & sludge in some of the wheel cylinders. Both had DOT 5. Of course I can't know whether they've ALWAYS had DOT 5, but I think they did when I got them. My buddy's M35 with DOT 3 had similar problems. I've rarely seen rust pits so bad they couldn't...

I've rescued & restored a lot of cars through the years. The last few years I've been working on military vehicles. If a vehicle sits unused for a long time, you're likely to have rust & corrosion in the wheel cylinders no matter what kind of fluid you use. I see no real advantage in DOT 5.

A good snowmobile suit & helmet with face shield is all you really need.