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I'd like to have a couple if they're available.

I'm sure glad you figured it out, I'm still confused.:confused: That's why I still haven't installed a meter on mine. It still boils down to a questionable reading after the turbo, or a questionable reading on one cylinder before the turbo.:roll:

What ever method you use you need to recognise the hazzards. Wether mechanical making dust, or chemical leaving waste to dispose of properly CARC is dangerous stuff. I personally prefer the stripper, dealing with the fumes is easier for me than dealing with dust. As far as a needle scaler...

How does mounting it before the turbo effect the reading? Is it hotter or colder than after?

The only way I've had success removing CARC without grinding is using Aircraft stripper made by Klean Strip. It will take it off if you can stand the fumes. It's brutal even outdoors, I use a full face respirator with the yellow cartridges.2cents Don't get it on bare skin either, really burns.

Has anyone ever seen it used on exterior surfaces like a top or cargo cover? How does it stand up to UV light from the sun?

:ditto: I've got two brand new tan tops I'd like to make camo if someone finds a paint or dye that will stick. I also wonder if painting or dying a vinyl top would extend it's life from UV exposure?

And give us a holler when you do, I'd like a set.

If it works in reverse but not forward, I'd bet on the duplex valve not working right. There is a kit to rebuild it, don't have the part # handy. You just take it apart and replace the rubber seats. Because you use the forward side the most the rubber wears down and won't open. I have heard...

What exactly is wrong with yours, what is it doing/not doing? I thought mine was bad but truned out to be a bad duplex valve on the transmission.

There are several listed on Epay right now, standard three lever switch

This may be old news for some, but for newer members. Back in the late 60s and early 70s when we were building racing engines out of small block Chevies, we would hot tank the bare blocks and heads before doing the machine work,(even new blocks). Afterwards we used picks to clean out the water...

I got all of my stuff through GSA and I'm very pleased. My M51a2 came from a live auction in Springfield, IL and contrary to most trucks had just been released from the IL NG two months previously. Even the batteries were well charged. Go look at what you're bidding on and there will be no...

my DTC 8606 forklift has a gizmo that slips over the forks and locks into the back of the carriage and has a pintle hitch, used for spotting the M198 howitzer. Makes an excellent lifting point with fore and aft tilt, shideshift, and fine lifting adjustment makes it an all terrain portable 4000...

When the air tank on my DTC 8606 forklift sprouted leaks, I couldn't find a new or used replacement tank or anything near the right size. I found a nos airtank for an M871 trailer on Epay from a seller surplus-boys. I was way to big to fit in the under chassis location, so I mounted it on top...

I don't have the #s handy, they're down on the farm where I keep my vehicles, but I get mine from O/reilly's auto parts. It's a standard item in the Wix catalog. Cast iron base with three bolt mount, you can get filters with or w/o supplamental coolant additive charges based on cooling system...

That's why you need a coolant filter.

I'm interested in a fording Kit.

I'd be interested in the part #s, my DTC 8606 has a Cummins 4BT in it and it's very cold natured. Where exactly is the boss located on the engine? Maybe have a picture?

I remember seeing the article about the Shermans when it came out(does this give away my age? I was 13 at the time) I wanted one sooo bad I could taste it. I heard there was a lot of interest, until he mentioned shipping was around $1000 minimum and most people lost interest. Doesn't sound...