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Not that high tech, but I always liked that style gauge.

Firing the Parts cannon can fix problems... but not always. You could always just download TM 9-6115-641-24 if you don't have it yet, and reference PDF Page 113 to know for certain (for no money out of pocket):

Entirely possible as the arc would have been on the DC circuit, which this gauge also is. There are testing methods in the TMs for the gauges to confirm if they are good or not.

If it cranks over strong by the dead crank, thats a good start. You do need those relays and switches. If you really just want to hear the engine run, it is possible if you really need to before buying up the right parts. You can use the dead crank to turn it over, and manually pull on the fuel...

Lookin good!

I would say thats a matter of perspective, best discussed over some strong barley water.

Thats a great price, Thanks

Where did you find the bearing at for a good price, if you don't mind sharing the source?

Thats the nice thing about new in box versus used takeout... the factory documents!

The cutout under the engine is about 6" x 6"... a rodent superhighway into the machine. Especially under the conditions you have it installed.

I can't seem to find a breakthrough amperage rating on the Eaton OEM one, but the alternate Ive bought before (BK/ABC-30-R) shows an interrupt rating of only 200A... so I think that McMaster fuse might not blow when you want.

I use 1/4" hardware cloth and self tapping sheet metal screws for the large cutout under the engine. Can do the same over the side vent inlets if you want for extra coverage (mice are assholes). For the battery drain holes they are covered when the batteries are in place, but using some self...

Did not know that. Thanks for the info.

Glad to see it made it down exactly as it left... never do know with truck lines these days. Good luck with the reinstall, hopefully you will be making power sooner than later!

For what its worth, looking at the fuse spec'd out in the TM is rated for 125VAC :shrugs:

Here is the cleaned up link...

I went through my purchase history files on parts, and see that I've bought this before... https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/504-BK-ABC-30-R

Add to the list the fuse that goes into it stock.... $25! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/F03A125V30A?qs=TNh9aA0PEuKq0dy0fzwSmA%3D%3D

All for the low, low price of $25! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/F03A125V30A?qs=TNh9aA0PEuKq0dy0fzwSmA%3D%3D :sick:

You can also unplug the AUX pump, as well as the double float in the rear tank (and the rear fender switch... but thats almost NEVER the culprit). Just unplug one at a time and see if you can find the problem. If none of those give you the AH-HA, then you need to start verifying wire numbers...