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Sorry I read it quick on my phone, I thought it was the battery gauge that was levelling back to zero.

Your gauge (and battery charging alternator) are working perfectly if it drops to zero. That means your batteries are charged and the system is maintained. If it was showing in the negative range, that means its discharging and running down your batteries

The 00x machines require periodic inspection of grounds for this very reason, which I am sure is why Ray mentioned it in a previous post. Glad you got it figured out.

If you don't have the TMs for this set, you can download them here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-you-need-to-work-on-the-mep-002a.155935/

You need to test the DC charging system properly: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-and-mep-003a-dc-charging-system-test.94880/post-2212133

Well you say the charging system works and reads 27V... where did you get that figure from?

Trace the circuit backwards, see where the voltage is changing. You have seen this gauge read correctly before, or this is a new machine to you? Is it hooked up correctly?

Have you removed and tested the diode? I would do this well before jumping it.

Spoons aren't rated to take a mans eye out either, but here we are in 2023.

Let us know. I might be able to lift some out of my parts stash.

They absolutely have a place in the toolbox.

WAGO makes a good connector. They are more convenient to me than wire nuts. Depending on the application though, I am more of a fan of those little heat shrink solder sleeve crimpless butt connectors. All you need is a good heat source (air gun, torch, etc) and you can have a properly soldered...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/belts---hoses/hoses/bulk-hose/bulk-fuel-hose--universal-/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27002

Look at the -24P TMs of the two machines, you should be able to parse out which are common and which are not.

That's why it only makes sense to do all at once. If you have to yank the roof, intake, and muffler for the returns... You are 85% of the way there.

The schematics have the wire number and alphanumeric on them on all diagrams (see below). They only lack the two trailing numbers (which are the gauge of the wire, and irrelevant to the layout purpose of the schematics). For example below... the wires involved with the MT4 are 112B, 112A, 159A...

Kurt's a very talented designer and engineer, I'm an idiot who has retained more from the TMs than I've forgotten... Whole different class! 😁 A compliment to me to be listed in the same breath as him.

I don't believe that will be possible. Probably have better luck finding someone who makes something similar, and find one that isn't an exact... but might work. Kind of like that company who makes the fuel level senders... KUS? Maybe they have a comparable beast.

Unbelievable. I reached out to the manufacturer of these floats... To order (IN QUANTITY 50+) they are over $250/ea now! :poop:

One of the biggest PITA qualities of sets with open contact switches and relays is corrossion. The more times you can cycle something, the more that any small bit of corrosion can be disturbed and the part freed. As part of this exercise of diagnosing the K1, I recommend finding a high quality...