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AC-60's, just bought some, $8.25 each. Have manual push button operation, only replace one when it dies, not as a set. They last about 4-6 years.

Here's my steering box story. Went to an alignment shop, tells me I need a new box, too much play to do an alignment. So I order one from a local parts supply chain store. Rebuilt, turn in your core arrangement. Pick it up, its clean, new paint on it, drop it off. Get a call 2 hours later, go...

Sounds like your fast idle/cold advance is not operating. Check to see if there is power to the sensor at back of passenger head. The smoke sounds like unburnt fuel, check that all your glowplugs are working.

Sensor should have two prongs. Sorry, I have not posted a how-to. It was 10 years ago. I can check and see how I wired it. I believe..I ran a wire from the always hot power that feeds the temp sensor around the front of the IP, then back through a rubber grommet on the firewall somewhere below...

You got it, the coolant temp sender on the right rear passenger head controls the high idle/cold advance circuits. I had mine fail, so wired a manual illuminated rocker switch on the dash into the circuit. Now its fully manual, nice to be able to use it when the motor has cooled down a little...

That's with the engine running, cold start. Glow once and start once. When its slightly warm, you only need one 5 second glow for quick fire up. Here's a great vid explaining stock card operated glow times, courtesy of member Antennaclimber ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTkOl947aTk

I am in totally agreement with this, its been borne out of my experience of 11 years daily driving.

In regards to the AC60's and a manual push button. You can keep them engaged for 20 seconds or longer, no problem. They are self-limiting, but do take longer than the original AC-13's or Wellman's to get to full temps. I have the time-temp comparison graphs if you would like to see them. You do...

"Crank it for 10 seconds would be a good rule". First off, CUCRUS, please don't get me wrong. You're a knowledgeable guy, I am not slagging you... but If I had to crank my 6.2 for 10 seconds, well there's something wrong with it. Perhaps because I use AC60's on a manual push button and give it...

Hey, no garage queen here. I run mine every day for the past 11 years. But I use AC 60's, they don't swell. I recall a previous post of yours where you stated you use the old original design plugs (AC13,11 or 9's?) They are outdated and prone to failure, there's your issue.

Taking the GP's out just to test them seems tedious and unnecessary. I use a test light hooked up to battery +, take all the GP wires off, touch test light to spade. If it lights, its good. No light, replace. Very quick procedure.

Mine also uses a quart every 1000 miles. Been like that since I got it 11 years ago. Daily driver, put over a 100,000 miles on it since.

I made mine from some hard white plastic bushings I found lying around a motorcycle mechanics bench. Put a cut in them to slip it on, work great.

I've heard guys have used a Mity-Vac pump to bleed up to the filter base, might get one and try it.

You get mist out of the glow plug holes..why not put the plugs and and see if it will light up. While I also pull the plugs when bleeding the system, I put a piece of cardboard along the inner fenders, shows the spray pattern of fuel coming out of the loosened injector lines. Can't remember if I...

Allow me to clarify; I use to do professional auto restoration for a living. The rust was only minor and on the surface,not right through. I sand blasted the rusty spots and finished with phosphoric acid, then applied red-oxide primer. Only then did I use the sealant. So it is a sound practise...

Can leak from under the windshield weatherstrip at the bottom corners. Rust can form under there on the sheet metal lip, pushes up the rubber and water flows thru. Had water dripping on passenger floor, even onto the inside of glove box when its closed. Last time I fixed this, I used a lot of...

Tilt steering column with intermittent wipers and a serious stereo, amp and speakers setup.

I used the color your hippo tintable liner kit, so its green. It sprays on with a Schutz gun. Cleaned any rust spots, de-greased, scuffed with scotchbrite pads, then masked area off. Goes on thick, put 2 coats on, tuff stuff. As good as any commercial application. No problems coming out from...

Its been covered ; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3609-Air-in-Fuel-System&highlight= The underlying issue was the fuel filter base pressure sensor o-ring allowing air to be sucked into system. Replaced with new filter base. Still have the hole in my fuel cap.